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TheTye
Trad climber
Sacramento CA
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Topic Author's Original Post - Aug 28, 2014 - 09:44am PT
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I'm headed to Boulder in a few weeks for the Boulder Cup Cyclocross Races and made plans to stay a couple extra days and do a bit of Flat Irons climbing.
I was looking at the First Flatiron Direct Route but figured there are probably a few other noteworthy long moderates that would have less traffic.
Any suggestions???
Thanks, Tye
P.S. I have never climbed in CO before... Should be big fun.
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goatboy smellz
climber
लघिमा
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Aug 28, 2014 - 10:29am PT
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The First has the best summit views, it's usually the place I take friends from out of town.
I've never seen it crowded, unlike the Third.
The Maiden and the Matron are also stellar.
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Fat Dad
Trad climber
Los Angeles, CA
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Aug 28, 2014 - 10:37am PT
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I've only climbed the First and Third Flatiron. E. Face of the First to the North Ridge is a terrific outing. There are a ton of other great options I'm sure of equal quality but not many that would surpass it.
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Peter Haan
Trad climber
Santa Cruz, CA
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Aug 28, 2014 - 11:40am PT
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Tye, you have to do the Fourth Flatiron, for sure.
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goatboy smellz
climber
लघिमा
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Aug 28, 2014 - 02:34pm PT
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Another option if you want some adventure is Angel/Devil Wings which goes up the south end of Bear Peak in 8 pitches followed by a scramble to the summit. If you are not up for that type of climb, Bear Peak is worth doing as a sturdy warm up to get use to the altitude.
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Aug 28, 2014 - 02:48pm PT
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The East Ridge on the Maiden at 5.4 is pretty hard to beat with the bombsight rappel to finish!
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goatboy smellz
climber
लघिमा
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Aug 28, 2014 - 02:55pm PT
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W.L.
Did First Flatiron, whatever the "classic" low 5th deal is on it, maybe 5.6? Anyway, did that last year and was not impressed. If that were next to Tenaya Peak on 120, it would be ignored in favor of Tenaya...
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blahblah
Gym climber
Boulder
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Aug 28, 2014 - 03:38pm PT
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Did First Flatiron, whatever the "classic" low 5th deal is on it, maybe 5.6? Anyway, did that last year and was not impressed.
You didn't use a rope, did you? That takes some of the fun out of it.
The East Ridge on the Maiden at 5.4 is pretty hard to beat with the bombsight rappel to finish!
What the hell is the East Ridge of the Maiden at 5.4?
According to my guide, there's a climb called East Ridge that goes at 10c--I've never done it or heard of it before looking at the guide.
The standard route is the North Ridge, and it gets a 5.6R. I've done that route several times. While there's been plenty of grade inflation, I'm skeptical the North Ridge was ever rated 5.4, and if somehow it was, that rating would be entirely out of whack with modern ratings, even allowing for sandbags.
In light of the comments above, how about: if you don't live on the Front Range (or have extensive climbing experience here), maybe keep your thoughts to yourself on this thread? There's no shortage people who post here who actually have climbed more than one route in the Flatirons and have some vague idea of what route names and ratings are.
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blahblah
Gym climber
Boulder
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Aug 28, 2014 - 05:03pm PT
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Ok but if you get both the name and the rating VERY wrong, I'm not sure it's fair to say a visitor would know what you're talking about.
Also, it climbs pretty different (IMHO) from a standard east face.
It is a very good/interesting route and worth doing.
Just so y'all don't think I mean to only post negative stuff, here's my slightly obscure, quality pick: Satan's Slab (5.8R according to my Haas guide). But I'm sure there are a lot better climbs in Yosemite or wherever.
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TheTye
Trad climber
Sacramento CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 28, 2014 - 10:00pm PT
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Wow! I guess I have a lot more to ponder than I thought... that 5.7r Maiden climb seems like a fun time.
Moderate adventure will be the name of the game and it sounds like there is plenty of that to pick from.
Also, Peter, can you elaborate on why the fourth is a must-do? I mean besides the obvious awesomeness that the pic makes clear...
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blahblah
Gym climber
Boulder
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Aug 28, 2014 - 10:33pm PT
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Also, Peter, can you elaborate on why the fourth is a must-do? Look maybe I wasn't clear enough in my last post: do yourself a favor and DO NOT ask for or take advice from people who don't live here or don't have extensive climbing experience here. (And from what's been written above, the advice from people who do live here, such as yours truly, should be taken with a giant grain of salt.)
You are either being teased or the poster is insane or some combination is going on, as only in ST world is the Fourth a "must do."
Steelmonkey's topos are actually pretty cool and useful (although I like to cross the Gash somewhat higher on the 3rd for the easiest/quickest ascent).
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TheTye
Trad climber
Sacramento CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 29, 2014 - 05:45am PT
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Just trying to keep my options open.
I'm wondering if stealmonkey has one of those fancy topos for the first flatiron direct route...
Also, does the second have to downclimb from the second belay at the start of the third pitch on that Maiden climb? I'm wondering if that would freak my GF out.
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Ljohnson
Social climber
The land of ice, snow and rocks
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Aug 29, 2014 - 05:53am PT
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+1 for Yellow Spur. If your stuck on the Flatirons, Fandango on the first is a favorite of mine. Hit the Spy while your up there, really cool fin with a pretty exciting jump across finish.
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mike m
Trad climber
black hills
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Aug 29, 2014 - 06:14am PT
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If you do the third is a really good 5,7 on the backside that you rap over it's really steep and fun.
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steelmnkey
climber
Vision man...ya gotta have vision...
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Aug 29, 2014 - 07:18am PT
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I just pulled my stuff.
People like blahblah just make me tired and sad and I just can't do it.
Pick up one of the guides by Gerry Roach or Jason Haas and go have fun.
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TheTye
Trad climber
Sacramento CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 29, 2014 - 09:02am PT
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Hey man, for the record I appreciate any valuable tid-bits of beta from anyone willing to share with me. I really was hoping for more of those topos. I will gladly visit the shops when I get there and buy a guide book but still... I like to hear what everyone thinks are awesome routes.
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steelmnkey
climber
Vision man...ya gotta have vision...
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Aug 29, 2014 - 09:20am PT
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Hey Tye, I hope you have a great trip. The Flatirons are like a big scrambling fun park and you should be able to get 'er done no worries. Just get tired of all the negative b.s. and contrary d-bags who like to hang out and spray on here for some reason.
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TheTye
Trad climber
Sacramento CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 30, 2014 - 08:08am PT
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I'm bumping myself....
Hoping to get some more input without any critisism of anyone else's advise.
I'm a grown man and can adequately decide if some advise is not good.
Thanks, Tye
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goatboy smellz
climber
लघिमा
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Aug 30, 2014 - 09:24am PT
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You will get a lot more input by posting this question over on Mountain Project.
The climbing community is pretty fragmented and there are different forums for different areas.
Supertopo is California, Cascade Climbers is Pacific Northwest, Mountain Project is for the Rockies. NEClimbs for the northeast, etc.
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