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limpingcrab
Trad climber
the middle of CA
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Topic Author's Original Post - Aug 26, 2014 - 03:39pm PT
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Looks like applying for a bolting permit is the new NPS policy and no longer a park-by-park thing.
Has anyone ever actually applied for one?
I know some parks have had this rule for a while but it's enforced as a "don't ask don't tell" policy.
I kinda want to apply for one on some route I don't care about just to see what it's like. Although it's probably better to fly under the radar, and maybe better not to talk about this on a website that NPS staff could be reading?
Edit: Here's the access fund article goatboy posted on another thread http://www.accessfund.org/atf/cf/%7B1F5726D5-6646-4050-AA6E-C275DF6CA8E3%7D/Summer%2013%20VT_Final_LR.pdf
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Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
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Aug 26, 2014 - 04:02pm PT
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First, this only applies to bolting in Wilderness areas of a national park.
The article / ruling is a little bit vague, because parks which do not have a procedure set up may not know how to deal with a bolting permit.
And they might not have a procedure for awhile.
This suggests to me they might be inclined to reject bolting permits or put them on hold until they have a procedure for reviewing them.
It seems the main risk of bolting without a permit (when a park has no permit review procedure in place) is that the bolts might get removed. Or maybe you might get prosecuted. But it seems unlikely any action would be taken unless you are grid bolting sport climbs near a trail or something.
If the Yosemite (or Sequoia, etc.) climbing ranger has suggestions, those would be very helpful.
The Climbing/Bolting section of the Yosemite web page does not reference this "Director's Order #41" yet.
http://www.nps.gov/yose/planyourvisit/bolting.htm
The current policy states that hand drilling should be sufficient to prevent overbolting. So they may approve most bolting requests, unless you ask to do something ridiculous.
I don't know what other National Parks might choose.
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Salamanizer
Trad climber
The land of Fruits & Nuts!
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Aug 26, 2014 - 06:13pm PT
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Oh great, another example of government seizing your lands and rights, and then selling them back to you.
How about if we cut the size of the Park Service in half and use the newly freed up revenue for promoting public education within the park and supporting local volunteer groups to pick up the slack in policing with their presence and words instead.
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limpingcrab
Trad climber
the middle of CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 27, 2014 - 08:13am PT
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Good point Clint, forgot to mention that.
I sometimes forget that all parks aren't like Sequoia/Kings where pretty much everything is wilderness.
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Reilly
Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
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Aug 27, 2014 - 08:47am PT
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I sometimes forget that all parks aren't like Sequoia/Kings where pretty much everything is wilderness.
I assume you're being sarcastic, that is unless your idea of wilderness
includes hearing Harleys from miles away. ;-/
And who's gonna hear you tapping away on Bubbs Creek Wall anyway?
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Radish
Trad climber
SeKi, California
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Aug 27, 2014 - 10:08am PT
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Seki is around 80% Wilderness and the Harleys do echo through, but only between Memorial day and Labor day. The rest of the time its actually pretty quiet. I wonder if ANYONE has ever applied for a bolting permit??
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limpingcrab
Trad climber
the middle of CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 27, 2014 - 10:10am PT
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I assume you're being sarcastic, that is unless your idea of wilderness
includes hearing Harleys from miles away. ;-/
Well, it's legally wilderness anyway
And who's gonna hear you tapping away on Bubbs Creek Wall anyway? Shhhhh! ;)
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Reilly
Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
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Aug 27, 2014 - 10:14am PT
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If you can't hear the Harleys it's because the F-18's are drowning them out.
Last summer a couple flew over our camp in SEKI in the middle of the night
at treetop level and then hit the afterburners to climb out of the canyon.
Phukking asshats. Some wilderness. And I've complained to the Park Service,
cause I love wasting my time.
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
Nothing creative to say
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Aug 27, 2014 - 11:08am PT
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Interesting call outs:
NPS managed
Wilderness
Aren't most bigwalls in Yosemite considered wilderness above a certain height?
Iron use is a 'may' regulate in NPS managed wilderness.
The NPS policy states that boltintensive “sport climbs” are
incompatible with Wilderness
and in every case using power
drills is prohibited. The new NPS
policy also states that maintaining
Wilderness character requires that
climbers accept a higher level of
risk in Wilderness areas and exhibit
a respect for the resource and a
“willingness to accept self-restraint in
demanding access to it.” This means
that bolting for convenience or to
develop bolt-intensive face climbs
is not an acceptable Wilderness
activity.
Fixed anchors
should not be placed merely for
convenience or to make an otherwise
“unclimbable” route climbable. This reads as no bolt or rivet ladders in wilderness, and also that rivets to establish other fixed protection for an eventual free route are also 'should nots'
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