Yosemite Practice Aid Circuit


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Trad climber
San Rafael, CA
Sep 3, 2004 - 10:54am PT
Cool...thanks! I've seen the posters around.

Social climber
The Deli
Topic Author's Reply - Mar 4, 2008 - 10:23pm PT
Bump... for a climbing topic and for Mark and Shack!!!

Additions to the list welcomed!

Trad climber
Mar 5, 2008 - 09:15am PT
how about that traverse aid crack on swan slab. I placed my first rurps and hooks on that one. not sure what it is rated any longer.

Mar 5, 2008 - 10:49am PT
You're not talking about the aid route are you? It goes free at 11.? /A0 (2 bolt ladder). The rest of P1 is 5.7 and p2 is nice .10a pin scars.

Bryan, I hope to start working the circuit this weekend.


Trad climber
Mar 5, 2008 - 11:02am PT
nope, I have done that route free a few times. it is the very thin seam that crosses that route. it was rated A5 when I did it but who knows it may be A2 now.

Trad climber
Fresno CA
Mar 5, 2008 - 11:48am PT
Thanks for the list. Dynamo Hum was my first aid lead in the Valley (It was the first pitch of the climb "Camp 4 Tree -- From South Base" then) and I would second its earlier recommendation.

I've also been on the NW Corner route of Kat Pinnacle. I probably would not recommend it as a first aid lead, but it is a nice climb. Even though the aid pitch is short (maybe seventy feet) it is both steep and exposed. I was there so long ago that I have no clue about its likelihood to go clean, or its difficulty without pins.

Does anyone know anything about the El Cap East Ledge, West Side route? The Red and Green Roper Guides rate it III, 5.6, A2 and describe a "large cleft with a perfect crack in its back" that sounds like a good beginner's multi-pitch aid route. The approach deterred me 40 years ago, and the route probably has bolts that are 50 years old, but I'd still be interested in any information about it.

Social climber
The Deli
Topic Author's Reply - Jun 3, 2008 - 10:00pm PT
Obama wants to make EVERYONE an aid climber. FEAR FEAR FEAR!!!!

...but no need to worry about #1 heads, beak tips, and those hook moves that make noises as they decide to relocate...
Chris McNamara

SuperTopo staff member
Feb 20, 2009 - 09:20pm PT
great list - i added it to this list of Aid Climbing articles
Wade Icey

Trad climber
Mar 21, 2009 - 01:15pm PT
bump despite crackpot political references

Edit; can anyone advise on current state of Dynamo Hum Anchors? looks like a small tree?
Wade Icey

Trad climber
Mar 21, 2009 - 02:24pm PT
cause edits don't bump.

Dynamo? anyone?

Mountain climber
Apr 1, 2009 - 04:30pm PT
Last updated in 2004?

Big Wall climber
The Immaculate Conception
Apr 2, 2009 - 04:10pm PT
Old A5 - A2 nailing (1 pitch)

Riiiiiiiiight. A2, eh? Better account for the 5 consecutive #1 C-heads to a RURP, then #1 KB.....then a merciful 1/4" bolt. A2?........NOT! More like A3+, my friend.
the Fet

Nov 17, 2009 - 06:17pm PT

Trad climber
Yosemite, CA
Nov 18, 2009 - 11:12pm PT
On Schultz's Ridge, I put up a 4 pitch aid route this spring. Wouldn't call it a practice climb though. It starts in the corner to the left of "Ain't that a bitch", ala, Dale Bard. It then joins into Mikey Shaffer's route, for the last 20', at C1, at a bomber 3 stopper anchor. The 80' above the Bard route goes free at 13+, complements of Mikey Shaffer. From here it stays on a overhanging arete for 3 more pitches. First pitch goes at 5.8/A2/C1 for the last 20' of Shaffers route, 5 beaks. Second pitch, 14 beaks, corner fall potential, gear belay, 160'. Third pitch, 10 beaks, 140', gear belay, + one bolt. Fourth pitch, 7 beaks, 5.7, 200'tree belay. So if anybody wants a hard, short, exposed route here's one.
Name of route: "Psycho Bitch" A3+?, Second ascent up for grabs.
Gear list:
Triples, 00-TCU to #3 camelot, 4 - #1 camelots, 1 - #4 camelot.
20 beaks, 3 extra large, 4 large, 10 medium, some ground down, 3 small.
1 set of hooks, with extra tallon hook.
2 ea.- micro offset stoppers, 2 ea. - set stoppers.
8 - heads, + 3 circle heads
1 - medium lowball
3 - rivet hangers
P.S, I soloed this route over several days, leaving ropes fixed,and I also clove-hitched the rope around certain objects, just a heads up. Also no pitons other than the beaks were placed.
jack herer

veneta, or
Nov 18, 2009 - 11:20pm PT

nice work! I saw you post this on the albotross thread, but what exactly is a extra large beak? im familliar with the regular 3 sizes and would mabey consider a specter to be the next size up... or is it some vermin specialty you can buy at the mtn shop? anyways i love beaks and would love to know whats up.

Trad climber
Yosemite, CA
Nov 19, 2009 - 11:34am PT
Yeah Jack, your right, that would be a, Specter. I have 3 on my rack and they stick real nice, so good that my partner left one fixed on the last pitch of the North America wall, down to 2 now.

Nov 19, 2009 - 11:44am PT
Nice effort, Bulldog. Sounds high value. A3+, hehehe...

Trad climber
Placerville, California
Nov 19, 2009 - 11:44am PT
duudde i fully ripped a long string of gear on old a5. i was using cam hooks and back cleaning them, leaving a few arrows. i was standing on what i thought was a good green alien in a pin scar when it ripped. all the pieces below me ripped except one and i fell over that roof and just touched down with rope stretch. all in all prolly 50'. i was rope soloing with a clove hitch and my anchor was a tree a ways back from the wall so i had to cough up some slack
the cam hook that i had placed from the alien was winking at me from ways up there.

quite the practice experience. the memory smiles me.

Gym climber
Green Cove slabbage BITD!
Mar 12, 2010 - 09:51am PT
Coffin Nail on the Cookie got freed in the mid-90's and is attempted to this day- best to try out the iron someplace else.

Social climber
The Deli
Topic Author's Reply - Mar 12, 2010 - 12:49pm PT
Yeah, last updated in 2004, cuz I can’t remember when I last hung in my aiders. I can give you an updated list of easy to moderate free routes in Tuolumne, if you would like. ;)

Re. Old A5… Uhhh… I think Wade Icey and I did that one several years back and I don’t remember what you describe. Sorry, don’t mean to sandbag. Oh well, maybe it just felt like A2 when I led it. But then again, I have never hung from a cam hook – not once. And I did say earlier in this thread…

“Never trust ratings - they are worthless.”

Should I update the list to change the rating?

Hey Kevin, your new route sounds cool! I wonder if it’s what Wade and I were looking at when we were up doing Abazaba. Nice job with that! Although climbers might want to practice aid BEFORE they get on that one…

“Coffin Nail on the Cookie got freed in the mid-90's and is attempted to this day- best to try out the iron someplace else.”

On toprope, or did someone put the bolts back in? :)
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