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martygarrison
Trad climber
atlanta
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how about that traverse aid crack on swan slab. I placed my first rurps and hooks on that one. not sure what it is rated any longer.
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kev
climber
CA
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You're not talking about the aid route are you? It goes free at 11.? /A0 (2 bolt ladder). The rest of P1 is 5.7 and p2 is nice .10a pin scars.
Bryan, I hope to start working the circuit this weekend.
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martygarrison
Trad climber
atlanta
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nope, I have done that route free a few times. it is the very thin seam that crosses that route. it was rated A5 when I did it but who knows it may be A2 now.
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JEleazarian
Trad climber
Fresno CA
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Thanks for the list. Dynamo Hum was my first aid lead in the Valley (It was the first pitch of the climb "Camp 4 Tree -- From South Base" then) and I would second its earlier recommendation.
I've also been on the NW Corner route of Kat Pinnacle. I probably would not recommend it as a first aid lead, but it is a nice climb. Even though the aid pitch is short (maybe seventy feet) it is both steep and exposed. I was there so long ago that I have no clue about its likelihood to go clean, or its difficulty without pins.
Does anyone know anything about the El Cap East Ledge, West Side route? The Red and Green Roper Guides rate it III, 5.6, A2 and describe a "large cleft with a perfect crack in its back" that sounds like a good beginner's multi-pitch aid route. The approach deterred me 40 years ago, and the route probably has bolts that are 50 years old, but I'd still be interested in any information about it.
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Minerals
Social climber
The Deli
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 3, 2008 - 10:00pm PT
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Obama wants to make EVERYONE an aid climber. FEAR FEAR FEAR!!!!
...but no need to worry about #1 heads, beak tips, and those hook moves that make noises as they decide to relocate...
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Wade Icey
Trad climber
www.alohashirtrescue.com
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Mar 21, 2009 - 01:15pm PT
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bump despite crackpot political references
Edit; can anyone advise on current state of Dynamo Hum Anchors? looks like a small tree?
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Wade Icey
Trad climber
www.alohashirtrescue.com
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Mar 21, 2009 - 02:24pm PT
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cause edits don't bump.
Dynamo? anyone?
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squishy
Mountain climber
sacramento
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Last updated in 2004?
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mooch
Big Wall climber
The Immaculate Conception
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Old A5 - A2 nailing (1 pitch)
Riiiiiiiiight. A2, eh? Better account for the 5 consecutive #1 C-heads to a RURP, then #1 KB.....then a merciful 1/4" bolt. A2?........NOT! More like A3+, my friend.
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the Fet
climber
Tu-Tok-A-Nu-La
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Nov 17, 2009 - 06:17pm PT
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Bump.
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Bulldog
Trad climber
Yosemite, CA
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Nov 18, 2009 - 11:12pm PT
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On Schultz's Ridge, I put up a 4 pitch aid route this spring. Wouldn't call it a practice climb though. It starts in the corner to the left of "Ain't that a bitch", ala, Dale Bard. It then joins into Mikey Shaffer's route, for the last 20', at C1, at a bomber 3 stopper anchor. The 80' above the Bard route goes free at 13+, complements of Mikey Shaffer. From here it stays on a overhanging arete for 3 more pitches. First pitch goes at 5.8/A2/C1 for the last 20' of Shaffers route, 5 beaks. Second pitch, 14 beaks, corner fall potential, gear belay, 160'. Third pitch, 10 beaks, 140', gear belay, + one bolt. Fourth pitch, 7 beaks, 5.7, 200'tree belay. So if anybody wants a hard, short, exposed route here's one.
Name of route: "Psycho Bitch" A3+?, Second ascent up for grabs.
Gear list:
Triples, 00-TCU to #3 camelot, 4 - #1 camelots, 1 - #4 camelot.
20 beaks, 3 extra large, 4 large, 10 medium, some ground down, 3 small.
1 set of hooks, with extra tallon hook.
2 ea.- micro offset stoppers, 2 ea. - set stoppers.
8 - heads, + 3 circle heads
1 - medium lowball
3 - rivet hangers
P.S, I soloed this route over several days, leaving ropes fixed,and I also clove-hitched the rope around certain objects, just a heads up. Also no pitons other than the beaks were placed.
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jack herer
climber
veneta, or
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Nov 18, 2009 - 11:20pm PT
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bulldog-
nice work! I saw you post this on the albotross thread, but what exactly is a extra large beak? im familliar with the regular 3 sizes and would mabey consider a specter to be the next size up... or is it some vermin specialty you can buy at the mtn shop? anyways i love beaks and would love to know whats up.
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Bulldog
Trad climber
Yosemite, CA
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Nov 19, 2009 - 11:34am PT
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Yeah Jack, your right, that would be a, Specter. I have 3 on my rack and they stick real nice, so good that my partner left one fixed on the last pitch of the North America wall, down to 2 now.
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Norwegian
Trad climber
Placerville, California
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Nov 19, 2009 - 11:44am PT
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duudde i fully ripped a long string of gear on old a5. i was using cam hooks and back cleaning them, leaving a few arrows. i was standing on what i thought was a good green alien in a pin scar when it ripped. all the pieces below me ripped except one and i fell over that roof and just touched down with rope stretch. all in all prolly 50'. i was rope soloing with a clove hitch and my anchor was a tree a ways back from the wall so i had to cough up some slack
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the cam hook that i had placed from the alien was winking at me from ways up there.
quite the practice experience. the memory smiles me.
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Rhodo-Router
Gym climber
Green Cove slabbage BITD!
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Mar 12, 2010 - 09:51am PT
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Coffin Nail on the Cookie got freed in the mid-90's and is attempted to this day- best to try out the iron someplace else.
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Minerals
Social climber
The Deli
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 12, 2010 - 12:49pm PT
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Yeah, last updated in 2004, cuz I can’t remember when I last hung in my aiders. I can give you an updated list of easy to moderate free routes in Tuolumne, if you would like. ;)
Re. Old A5… Uhhh… I think Wade Icey and I did that one several years back and I don’t remember what you describe. Sorry, don’t mean to sandbag. Oh well, maybe it just felt like A2 when I led it. But then again, I have never hung from a cam hook – not once. And I did say earlier in this thread…
“Never trust ratings - they are worthless.”
Should I update the list to change the rating?
Hey Kevin, your new route sounds cool! I wonder if it’s what Wade and I were looking at when we were up doing Abazaba. Nice job with that! Although climbers might want to practice aid BEFORE they get on that one…
“Coffin Nail on the Cookie got freed in the mid-90's and is attempted to this day- best to try out the iron someplace else.”
On toprope, or did someone put the bolts back in? :)
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Wade Icey
Trad climber
www.alohashirtrescue.com
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Mar 12, 2010 - 01:56pm PT
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Old A5 is the Corbett thing near staircase? If I remember correctly there was a fat solo anchor (YMS?) bolt at the base and thin diagonal crack. Pre Cam hooks. I think you-Minerals- put in rurps and blades of various quality to an old (fa?) bolt then more various thin easing to the anchor. might've fixed a rurp?
Minerals cruised and if there was any A3ness™ it was probably due to diagonals and ground fall implications. even "Practice Aid" cragging is A5 if you rip the gear.
Keep the Wall/Aid bumps coming. New hip on Monday- can't wait to top step again- PSYCHED.
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HighTraverse
Trad climber
Bay Area
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Mar 13, 2010 - 04:59pm PT
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Early in the thread there was some confusion about the El Cap Tree routes.
I'm not familiar with the direct but have climbed the original in February a LONG time ago.
It diagonals to the left to the tree ledge.
According to Roper, the first two pitches go as steep as 110 degrees. I believe it.
Roper and the green Meyers/Reid guide show three pitches with the 3d at 5.6. The start of Iron Hawk
This is the way I remember it.
SuperTopo Big Walls shows it as the first 4 pitches of Atlantic Ocean Wall, 5.9 C2.
Also shows the last pitch as 5.8 or 5.9 or C1. I definitely recall it easier than 5.8 and free.
It's probably easier to make it 4 pitches for hauling a pig. Do it in 3 otherwise.
Lunch at the base of the Tree, a spectacular spot.
We rapped the last pitch back down to the ledge. From there it's an overhanging rappel with a sling transfer at 120 feet. A very good introduction to working in a totally exposed position! Check and double check every thing you do! Noob that I was, I went first.
On the 140' rap from the transfer to the ground the tails of my ropes hung up in an oak tree about 40' off the deck. More interesting practice to tie off my rap and retrieve the ends while twisting in the breeze 15 feet out from the wall!
Big Walls shows 2 raps straight down from the tree. 190' each.
You can also rap the route. You'll still need 2 ropes.
It had snowed hard the day before and big plates of ice were sliding off all the cliffs on the North side of the valley, especially El Cap. They flew behind us and crashed in the woods. A good route to climb on such a day.
I highly recommend it for a beginning multi pitch aid climb. You can escape from any pitch by rapping.
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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Mar 13, 2010 - 08:00pm PT
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The best thing to do is jump on an obscure wall so that you don't interfere with other climbers and tough it out. You will learn.
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