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SenorPancho
Social climber
Manitou Springs
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Topic Author's Original Post - Aug 21, 2014 - 11:53am PT
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Got talking about Lynn Hill and Midnight Lightning on another forum which shall remain nameless.. anyway, I'm wondering about some history. Who/when did women climb certain grades in the 90s? Who was the first woman to climb V8, V9, etc?
I can find some info about Thomasina Pidgeon and Tiffany Campbell, both being some of the first women in North America to climb V10, in the early 2000s, but beyond that I can't seem to find much.
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
Nothing creative to say
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Aug 21, 2014 - 12:20pm PT
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They had v grades in the 90s (outside of Hueco)?
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SenorPancho
Social climber
Manitou Springs
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 21, 2014 - 12:41pm PT
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There were V grades outside of Hueco in the mid to late 90s, I remember V grades in Colorado circa 97, and when Lynn HIll did Midnight Lightning I think it was understood to be V8 at the time.
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goatboy smellz
climber
लघिमा
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Aug 21, 2014 - 12:49pm PT
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I think Bobbi Bensman was doing V8's to 10 around Hueco by the mid '90's.
Tiffany Levine was up there as well but I can't remember any exact problems she did at the moment.
Joyce Rossiter was also a powerhouse on Flagstaff circuits.
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drljefe
climber
El Presidio San Augustin del Tucson
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Aug 21, 2014 - 12:54pm PT
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V8 used to be enough to get women into Hot Flashes.
Check Bobbi Bensman/ Better Eat Your Wheaties
edit: BB cranks and was an early inspiration for me when I was learning to boulder.
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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Aug 21, 2014 - 01:07pm PT
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V8 used to be enough to get women into Hot Flashes.
climbing induced menopause symptoms?!
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SenorPancho
Social climber
Manitou Springs
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 21, 2014 - 01:14pm PT
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What year did Hill first do ML ?
'98
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guyman
Social climber
Moorpark, CA.
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Aug 21, 2014 - 01:22pm PT
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This girl can crank....
Misa 1988 or so.
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Splater
climber
Grey Matter
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Aug 21, 2014 - 01:58pm PT
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way back when
In the Days of Future Pads
there was a really good climber in San Diego in the 80s named Marsha sp?
who could do most routes at Santee
(not the Marsha from the 90s who moved to Bishop)
I still remember the lousy spot I gave her on the back of the Amphitheatre. Hitting the bushes might have been better than the hard ground.
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ron gomez
Trad climber
fallbrook,ca
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Aug 21, 2014 - 03:21pm PT
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Someone should ask Maria Cranor or Mari Gingery...they were bouldering way hard in the 70's and 80's.
Peace
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jgill
Boulder climber
Colorado
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Aug 21, 2014 - 06:54pm PT
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Going further back into the 1950s and early 1960s, I can recall bouldering with only one young woman, and that a single instance at the Jenny Lake boulders in the Tetons. Were there females bouldering at Stoney Point then?
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ß Î Ø T Ç H
Boulder climber
extraordinaire
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Aug 21, 2014 - 08:09pm PT
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Julie de Jesus Rampage vid w/ Sharma at Priest Draw
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yanqui
climber
Balcarce, Argentina
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Jan 31, 2015 - 09:39am PT
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I think Catherine Miquel may have been the first woman ever to climb 7C+ (V10), in France during the early 1990s
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klk
Trad climber
cali
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Jan 31, 2015 - 09:54am PT
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The Bleausardes --
Dany Riche repeated Carnage (7b+) in 1989. She did a lot of other amazing boulders, too. She was also one of the first women, along with Catherine Miquel, to climb a consensus 8A (roughly v11).
Catherine is still cranking last I heard.
http://profiles.bleau.info/catherine.miquel/
As folks here have pointed out, Lynn and Mari were climbing hard V-grades in the 1980s and 1990s.
But Fontainebleau seems to have hosted the highest concentration of women boulderers at all grades. As John suggests, in North America, bouldering was one of the most boy-centric parts of the sport, along with big-walling.
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Gnome Ofthe Diabase
climber
Out Of Bed
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Jan 31, 2015 - 10:11am PT
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Barb Devine
Jody Rozine
Other names on the tip of my memory
From back in the day
oh how could I forget?
Elaine Mathews!
Rosie Andrews
Beverly Keith
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