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Messages 1 - 13 of total 13 in this topic |
limpingcrab
Trad climber
the middle of CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 5, 2014 - 08:55pm PT
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bump
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rincon
Trad climber
Coarsegold
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Thanks for the heads up limpingcrab.
here is the link for the climbing part: (you have to download the pdf)
file:///home/chronos/user/Downloads/17-WSPDEIS-AppJ-ClimgingMgmt.pdf
Couple things, Sport climbing is a crime!
"New, bolt intensive climbing routes (e.g., “sport climbs,” bolt ladders) are not appropriate in wilderness
and are prohibited."
And....
Next time you are wayyyy back in the wilderness....climbing some hairball first ascent in the Gorge of Despair...and you are quaking in your boots wanting to place a bolt to save your sorry ass, while standing on some micro nubbin...Don't forget to get a permit!
That bolt permit thing is completely ridiculous. You have to fill out that form, and pay a $20 processing fee, just to have them tell you NO.
One more thing...the photo captioned..."ON THE PREVIOUS PAGE
Tehipte Dome
NPS Photo"
Don't look like Tehipiti to me.
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rincon
Trad climber
Coarsegold
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Looks like my link to the pdf doesn't work. If you click crab's link, look on the left, click, documents list, click "wilderness stewardship program"..and scroll down to climbing management pdf. you can read it.
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limpingcrab
Trad climber
the middle of CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 5, 2014 - 10:05pm PT
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Edited the OP with a separate link to the climbing section
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splitclimber
climber
Sonoma County
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interesting read. thx for posting.
So is Moro Rock and Buck Rock outside of wilderness boundaries? What about Baldy domes and other more easily accessed crags?
Wondering how any potential fixed anchor or bolting restrictions would play out at each crag.
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Trad is Rad
Trad climber
San Luis Obispo California
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the feds can suck it.
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Spider Savage
Mountain climber
The shaggy fringe of Los Angeles
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the feds can suck it.
It may be true but when you're face to face with reality, this attitude does not work.
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dave729
Trad climber
Western America
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seki does suck but you have to go there at least once
to confirm the rep. Maybe the new plans will help.
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limpingcrab
Trad climber
the middle of CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 6, 2014 - 07:23pm PT
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Splitclimber: with some exceptions, I think the wilderness boundary inside the park is 500 ft from the road. Buck rock and big baldy are not in wilderness. Little baldy is just inside, and Moro rock is the border but I believe was excluded from the wilderness because of the paved trail. I'm also curious to see how much they enforce this considering the small staff they have.
Dave: I mean this in the nicest way possible, you're either trolling or have no idea what you're talking about.
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dave729
Trad climber
Western America
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Well limpingcrab as has been noted the whole planet reads our
ST posts and anything to reduce the herd of Rv's is doing the
lords work. Can I get an amen?
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limpingcrab
Trad climber
the middle of CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 6, 2014 - 08:11pm PT
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Ah, the third option I missed, touche.
Everything is indeed really terrible and time is better spent elsewhere ;)
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cat t.
Sport climber
CA
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Aug 18, 2014 - 09:59pm PT
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Is it actually possible that they'd adjust something such as the silly permit-filing policy for bolts in response to people's comments, or is most of what's written in the plan un-budge-able?
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