Suicide Photos

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Messages 221 - 240 of total 240 in this topic << First  |  < Previous  |  Show All  |  Next >  |  Last >>
Tarbuster

climber
right here, right now
Aug 21, 2014 - 03:35pm PT
E stylin' the Chisolm Trail, early 80's:



Doug Munoz photo
TYeary

Social climber
State of decay
Aug 21, 2014 - 04:16pm PT
Credit: TYeary

Maybe a little better?
TY
dee ee

Mountain climber
citizen of planet Earth
Aug 23, 2014 - 03:26pm PT
What's the story behind the bad photo? Who's in there?

Someone is wearing a very stylish hat.
Sioux Juan

Big Wall climber
Costa mesa
Aug 25, 2014 - 08:30am PT
e that's the other e ...............mostly in the photo.......... you all know AS Stonedmasters
BillO

Trad climber
Yachats, OR
Aug 31, 2014 - 05:05pm PT
MisterE and Skip on Serpentine a couple years ago.
Credit: BillO
Credit: BillO
Credit: BillO
hashbro

Trad climber
Mental Physics........
Sep 15, 2014 - 11:48am PT
Just to clarify a post from Largo. I did the FFA (belayed by Chris Robbins) of the Woodpecker Crack on trad gear in the late 70's and renamed the route Tar and Feathers (Randy).

I also don't quite recall a naked ascent of the Sunshine face, but wouldn't discount that it happened.

Spencer
Friend

climber
Sep 30, 2014 - 02:17pm PT
I know thereís more vintage tales and photos floating around out there.

Iíve also heard rumors of some of the ultra-desperates being dusted off, in the last couple years.

Let's see some more granite inspiration. New, old or anywhere in between...
Johannsolo

climber
Soul Cal
Nov 17, 2014 - 06:11pm PT
I finally was able to lead Burning Down The House on Saturday. What an incredible slab, thank you Darrell!
Chim-Chim

climber
Nov 17, 2014 - 07:56pm PT
Don't let Dingus McGee know about your exploits, sh#t happens. Everyrouteethh must be safe-
Credit: Chim-Chim
thh. Great job mates!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
hashbro

Trad climber
Mental Physics........
Nov 17, 2014 - 09:42pm PT
Dave your memory is getting a little rusty.


I was actually belaying Acapulco Bill during his infamous plunge down the Guillotine. Randy showed up just in time to help me "belay" by yarding loads of road while Bill plummeted over 100 feet, landing upside down, inches from a large block.

Incidentally, Bill grabbed at least three pieces of gear before his fall, failing to clip into any of them. Randy and I were aghast.

And yes, Acapulco Bill screamed twice.
slayton

Trad climber
Here and There
Nov 17, 2014 - 11:23pm PT
I'm a gumby, a numby, a fart from the start. I have no claims and no pictures. I've been away from this climbing game for quite some time since moving to SE Alaska and away from southern California where Joshua Tree was my back yard and Idylwild was literally up and over the mountain from my Palm Springs home. I feel young but it seems that those years b's etween here and then are cropping up.

Suicide. .. . .I've been there more times than I remember. I forget climbing dates. I forget climbs. I forget all kinds of sh#t. I do remember climbing Serpentine and getting all kinds of scared and then proud that I finished it. I remember soloing something easy 5.5ish with a friend and saying "no f*#king way" when the exposure became too much and the move maybe just too much with that spice of exposure and plugging gear in to see me through. I remember a stupid 5.7 off-width that left me gagging, mad, and spewing obscenities to my partners delight.

I remember a bet between a couple of friends about climbin "flower of high rank" and going up to lead it myself. I remember that climb and so many of it's particulars, the opening moves and nut placements, the tree with old webbing, the horizontal crack before the top out that nearly did me in, me gasping and yelling self deprecating BS as others stood and watched from formations a bit away. But I remember making it up that thing and I remember loving it.

I've since moved away. Climbing has taken a back seat to other things, sometimes more, sometimes less passionate. My memories, though, of Suicide, Tahquitz, Joshua Tree, they will live with me forever. And. .. .I do get back sometimes. Not as often as I would like but enough to let me know.

Thanks all for sharing. It's nice to see home and those who pioneered it.
henny

Social climber
The Past
Nov 18, 2014 - 12:34am PT
Now I feel old. Burning Down the House was done in '87, wow. Twenty seven years ago. Ran up a bit of flier mileage on that one trying to GU boulder it out on two bolts before finally adding the third. Good times on a great route.

What impeccable stone, could well be the best of the best at either rock.

Good job Johnny.
henny

Social climber
The Past
Nov 18, 2014 - 12:51am PT
Just to clarify a post from Largo. I did the FFA (belayed by Chris Robbins) of the Woodpecker Crack on trad gear in the late 70's and renamed the route Tar and Feathers (Randy).

Spencer, dude.. I don't get it, why would you want to tar and feather Randy? He's a good guy. Haha, sorry, couldn't resist. Seriously though, are you trying to somehow attribute the name change to Randy? What does Randy have to do with all this? We all know Randy has always been a trouble maker, is it somehow related to that? Please clarify.
Rick A

climber
Boulder, Colorado
Nov 18, 2014 - 07:52am PT
Well done, John (and Henny in 1987)!

Somebody has to have some photos.
hossjulia

Trad climber
Carson City, NV
Nov 18, 2014 - 08:44am PT
I recognize a lot of these routes. But it's been since 1990 latest that I climbed there. Sure do miss it, thanks for the stories and photos.
hashbro

Trad climber
Mental Physics........
Nov 18, 2014 - 10:36am PT
to further clarify Daryl....the reason I placed the term "Randy" in the thread is that he (RV) is the keeper of the archives and documents the semi-recent (and somewhat silly) human history of who did what, when and how
MP

Trad climber
Truckee, CA
Nov 18, 2014 - 10:49am PT
Thanks for the Guillotine story. That route is notorious for long falls. I was up at Suicide in the mid 80's, Largo was there guiding some Hollywood models, when someone grounded while leading. Horrible sound, he was pretty banged up. We carried him down in a Stokes litter, but never heard how he made out.
Johannsolo

climber
Soul Cal
Nov 18, 2014 - 12:47pm PT
The start of Burning Down the House is just left of the huge flake. 50 feet of unprotected climbing takes you to the fist bolt that is 15 feet left of the top of the flake. Move left and up into the main black streak for 15 feet to the second bolt at a decent hand hold, clip and mantle. This is the only good hold from the 1st bolt to about 15 feet above the third. Clip the third bolt and I step right and start climbing on the right side of the streak. Many moves of braille climbing on nothing leads to a small right hand hold that you need to get your right foot on. Falling here would be very big. A couple of easy moves right leads to better holds and an easy stroll to the top.
Burning Down the House  FA:Darrell Hensel 1987
Burning Down the House FA:Darrell Hensel 1987
Credit: Johannsolo

henny

Social climber
The Past
Nov 18, 2014 - 01:10pm PT
This is the only good hold from the 1st bolt to about 15 feet above the third.

KP used to say that if you took all the holds from the 1st bolt to the easy moves at the end and stacked them on edge the total width would be no more than a quarter. Not far from the truth.

What a pretty slab - if one is into that kind of stuff. Even more appealing if you know just how bullet hard and clean that rock is.

Cheap Day Return is pretty good as well.
Charlie D.

Trad climber
Western Slope, Tahoe Sierra
Nov 18, 2014 - 01:13pm PT
I saw this thread and I couldn't help but wonder if this day was posted:

Credit: rmuir

It was indeed around 1974, I had just moved to San Diego after a 5 year hiatus from Tahquitz spent in the PNW. All the Sierra Clubbers were long gone and it seemed everybody's attention was now over at Suicide.

I remember thinking then just how much things had changed. Little did I appreciate just how much more change would take place!!! Thanks Robs for the trip down memory lane. I met you on several occasions back then and always remember you as a kind and inclusive person, the image of you in that white robe is what I immediately flashed to when I met you again at the JB memorial, talk about change!!! LOL.

Cheers,

Charlie D.

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