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Messages 181 - 200 of total 247 in this topic << First  |  < Previous  |  Show All  |  Next >  |  Last >>
Dimes

Social climber
Wonderland of Retirement
Aug 7, 2014 - 09:57am PT
Henny, crux of 1st pitch of Hades after the dubious fixed pin used on ...
Henny, crux of 1st pitch of Hades after the dubious fixed pin used on the first ascent was replaced with a bolt by the Melonhead.
Credit: Dimes
Dimes

Social climber
Wonderland of Retirement
Aug 7, 2014 - 09:59am PT
E leading the Pirate. Early 90's.
E leading the Pirate. Early 90's.
Credit: Dimes
Dimes

Social climber
Wonderland of Retirement
Aug 7, 2014 - 10:00am PT
Gordo wrestling with the Paisano Overhang-1986.
Gordo wrestling with the Paisano Overhang-1986.
Credit: Dimes
Greg Epperson

climber
Joshua Tree
Aug 7, 2014 - 10:03am PT
Credit: Greg Epperson
Dimes

Social climber
Wonderland of Retirement
Aug 7, 2014 - 10:05am PT
Henny about to start up the headwall on Someone You're Not.
Henny about to start up the headwall on Someone You're Not.
Credit: Dimes

We found this route while replacing the bolts on Caliente. We had both looked over and saw the perfect edges going up the headwall and were back the next weekend to begin working on it. 2 of the headwall bolts were drilled off hooks. Then we did what we had never done before-damn this is going to be hard to write-hangdogging! Not sure who got the first shot at the crux, I think it was me and when I fell off I began barking like a dog and Henny held the rope tight instead of lowering as was customary back in those days. This was the start of several days of aerial bouldering until Henny finally pulled the crux and grabbed the "Perfect Pair". Two small knobs that hung like breasts, one even displaying a nipple like feature above the wanton men lusting from below!! Since we had never done such a corrupt and inhumane thing as hang dogging before, we decided to name the route Someone You're Not. I remember having to avoid looking in mirrors for several days afterwards as the shame of it all was pretty overwhelming!
StahlBro

Trad climber
San Diego, CA
Aug 7, 2014 - 10:43am PT
Wow, fantastic stuff guys. Keep it coming.
T Hocking

Trad climber
Redding, Ca
Aug 7, 2014 - 10:50am PT
^^^
Word!
Thanks all,
Tad
henny

Social climber
The Past
Aug 7, 2014 - 11:10am PT
Well, the big boys finally woke up and posted some pictures!

Get that lock E, but be careful, ..., 'cause it's pipe!

Ho momma, fire another burger on the Presto Maker.

Yeap, I went down Caliente first on the bolt replacement effort. On the way down I accidently saw the line of holds off right, but didn't say a word. As soon as KP finished coming down he walked over and simply said, "Did you see that?" My answer was just as simple, "Yes." Nothing more was said. Next weekend, there we were. What a score.

It may not look like it, but the headwall is actually quite steep. Drilling the first bolt on it turned epic since the first decent edge is so high there was nothing to hang onto while drilling. After running easy ground to get there I pulled up the Bosch and tried to drill. The problem was, I had nothing to pull in on to put enough pressure on the drill to get the hammer to engage, plus the length of drill/bit made me lean too far back. I tried hooking a heel among other things, but always felt like I was going to pitch backwards once the drill was up. Every time I would pull the trigger the drill would skate, or bounce, across the face - making me feel even more like I was going over backwards. I kept looking down into Paisano Chimney thinking, "guaranteed, that's where I'm going to end up." Of course KP had no sympathy for my whining. I finally gave up and drilled the bolt just left of me in that last picture - just so I could drill the first headwall bolt high without dying. Stupid bolt, only there because the FA party was whimpy and needed it to drill the first true headwall bolt.

At least when the drill was skating I didn't just throw it off (attached to the trail line of course) like KP did at Tahquitz. But that's a different story.
Johannsolo

climber
Soul Cal
Aug 7, 2014 - 12:52pm PT
Chas at work
Chas at work
Credit: Johannsolo
Fat Dad

Trad climber
Los Angeles, CA
Aug 7, 2014 - 01:02pm PT
Another infamous fall, off of a route you don't want to fall on. The story goes that Bill Antel would at times pick the worst possible place, the one place you didn't want to pitch from on a route, and fall from there. So, over the edge of Hair Lip he went. Bet that was fun.
I pitched over the lip on Hair Lip back in the day. Reachy move between where that fixed pin was getting to the bolt, at least for me it was and I pitched off backward. Flipped around in midair and landed on my back on the slab underneath and slid a good ten feet since my partner had a slack belay. Of course I was shirtless. The only thing going for me was that I was 16 or 17 at the time, so healed up quickly. If that happened now, I'd probably shatter into a thousand pieces.
guyman

Social climber
Moorpark, CA.
Aug 7, 2014 - 01:21pm PT
Dimes, Henny, Epi...and all.

Thanks for digging up the goods.
scrubbing bubbles

Social climber
Uranus
Aug 7, 2014 - 01:51pm PT
^^^...ho man! LH on Woodpecker Crack!

That thing definitely looks worth.........top-roping !!
Doug Tomczik

climber
Bishop
Aug 8, 2014 - 10:13am PT
I think the photo of Ivan up thread might be my favorite suicide photo. Great stories and photos all around! Sweet shot of Arcy Farcy, KP. And Hades...can slab get better than that?? Would love to see more photos even if they are of Darrell...

Jeez, I had read about lassoing the knob and after seeing the photo, it seems amazing that KP lived to climb another day
dee ee

Mountain climber
citizen of planet Earth
Aug 8, 2014 - 06:52pm PT
KP, I feel for ya bro. Nothing like hangdogging to bring a man down.
dee ee

Mountain climber
citizen of planet Earth
Aug 8, 2014 - 06:58pm PT
Wow, a lot of good action on this thread since I left for Barstow! I have more but it will have to wait till we get back from Yellowstone in a week or so.

Will post up the Acapulco B. story.
F10

Trad climber
Bishop
Aug 8, 2014 - 08:48pm PT
Gear of the day,

EB's and Schlitz, usually malt.



Paisano Jam Crack

rottingjohnny

Sport climber
mammoth lakes ca
Aug 8, 2014 - 09:11pm PT
Shlitz , eb's , and the skinny swami belt...when life was simpler...
T Hocking

Trad climber
Redding, Ca
Aug 8, 2014 - 09:21pm PT
#10 hex, tied runners, anybody use those anymore?
Schlitz, have not had one of those since the 70's.
Cool shares all, carry on.
Mungeclimber

Trad climber
Nothing creative to say
Aug 9, 2014 - 11:31am PT
I remember a poster or picture of Lynn Hill on the Pirate at Adventures Unlimited there in Orange. Super inspirational to a kid that only done some top ropes at Rubberdux and a couple pitches up Hard Lark, and one pitch on Weeping Wall.

Finally got to walking around that side one day after leading Spatula or Nawab (which is the corner?). Saw that thin stuff and was just like "That's impossible"

You guys doing that steep slab sh#t were beyond comprehension! Seeing that rope trick on the knob reminds me about my own rope shenanigans elsewhere (much later). Pure fun trying make things happen with your buds is what its all about!
guyman

Social climber
Moorpark, CA.
Aug 16, 2014 - 12:37pm PT
I found this one, buried in the closet. I think Im getting close to finding a whole bunch of old stuff...

Getting ready for another try at Rebolting...
Getting ready for another try at Rebolting...
Credit: guyman

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