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Avery
climber
NZ
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Topic Author's Original Post - Jul 26, 2014 - 03:34pm PT
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One of the "last great problems" in New Zealand mountaineering has been achieved in spectacular fashion. The remote and huge (6,500ft) west face of Mt Tutoko has been climbed for the 1st time, solo and in winter by Guy Mckinnon. It took McKinnon just a day to complete the route
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johnkelley
climber
Anchorage Alaska
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Jul 26, 2014 - 04:07pm PT
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Nice. I was camped out below that a few winters ago and it rained the whole time. Lots of those green parrots around there to bother me...
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Handjam Belay
Gym climber
expat from the truth
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Jul 26, 2014 - 04:10pm PT
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That looks outstanding!
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Avery
climber
NZ
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 26, 2014 - 07:25pm PT
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As John's link makes clear, Guy McKinnon has done it again!
This time he has made the 1st solo ascent of the East Face of the "Pope's Nose". Once again the climb was done in winter. After a long, arduous approach, McKinnon took just five hours to complete the climb.
This route has been considered quite a prize since the 1st Winter ascent of the face 24 years ago. Another view of the East Face in Winter
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survival
Big Wall climber
Terrapin Station
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Jul 26, 2014 - 07:59pm PT
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Awesome!
Wow, those are really beautiful faces.
Thanks Avery!
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Avery
climber
NZ
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 26, 2014 - 08:23pm PT
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It's a pleasure, survival.
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kunlun_shan
Mountain climber
SF, CA
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Jul 27, 2014 - 05:07pm PT
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Wow, Avery! Thanks for posting.
What a couple huge lines, and to do those solo in such remote locations. Very bold climbs!
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survival
Big Wall climber
Terrapin Station
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Jul 27, 2014 - 06:23pm PT
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Avery, we need all the good NZ guys we can get here.
Now go to the mountains, take pictures, and post up man!!
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survival
Big Wall climber
Terrapin Station
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Jul 27, 2014 - 06:24pm PT
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What's Nick Craddock up to by the way?????
I know what John Dale is up to, but it's secret........
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Avery
climber
NZ
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 27, 2014 - 08:15pm PT
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The Darrans in Winter conditions.
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Avery
climber
NZ
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 28, 2014 - 07:02pm PT
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Another view of the East Face of Mt Tukoko in Winter.
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Avery
climber
NZ
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 28, 2014 - 08:47pm PT
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Thanks Bruce,
I don't have a lot of winter climbing experience so I'm not qualified to answer your questions.
I'll do a little digging.
Cheers.
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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Jul 28, 2014 - 08:48pm PT
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Thanks Avery....solo usually means bold in my book.
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Avery
climber
NZ
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 29, 2014 - 01:37am PT
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The existing routes on the Pope's Nose, East Face. This guide was drawn by Guy himself.
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Nick Cradock
Trad climber
NZ
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Jul 29, 2014 - 02:49pm PT
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A little correction Avery. Guy repeated the original and only winter line put up 24 yrs ago. Very bold and great style.
The direct line (in red) has only been climbed in summer. Most of the attempts on this face in winter have been trying to do this....including 2 of my attempts. This is a totally different level to the rte he repeated. In short it is still waiting for an ascent and is still one of the last great problems.
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Avery
climber
NZ
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 29, 2014 - 03:31pm PT
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Thanks for the correct information, Nick. Apologies for my blunder
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neebee
Social climber
calif/texas
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Jul 30, 2014 - 12:19am PT
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hey there say, avery... i really like these rocks... well, mountains, :))
say, what kind of rock, is this? what kind of terrain, is it volcanic, etc, is there a bit of surrounding area, too, to give an 'over view' also...
very nice shots, thanks for sharing, i was just curious, as to more, as the rock looks very impressive, and with this snow... :)
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Avery
climber
NZ
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 30, 2014 - 12:22am PT
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Thanks neebee,
I'll dig around and see what I can come up with.
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