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survival
Big Wall climber
Terrapin Station
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Jul 27, 2014 - 07:43pm PT
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Well, I've only done 25+ routes there, and I think I've got a good mix, but DAMN, I liked them all!!
Very interesting comments by all.
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rockgeir
Trad climber
Tucson, AZ
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 2, 2014 - 09:29pm PT
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Thanks all for your comments. Cochise Stronghold is truly a special place; many of my most treasured climbing experiences have been there.
I've met several of the great folks that have posted up here. Hopefully I'll have the honor of meeting the rest of you in the Stronghold down the road. Look me up if you come to town!
Thanks,
Geir
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rockgeir
Trad climber
Tucson, AZ
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 16, 2014 - 11:59am PT
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Bump for prime Rockfellow season just around the corner. I am psyched to track down some more of the hidden gems here and expand the guide!
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rockgeir
Trad climber
Tucson, AZ
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Topic Author's Reply - Sep 6, 2014 - 11:03am PT
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Bump for beautiful temps in the Stronghold!! (Although it's a little buggy in places so consider bringing along some repellant.)
I have had a number of requests for a print version of the book. I am happy to announce that this will be available shortly. For individuals who have already purchased the PDF guide, I am planning to offer a reduced price for the print version as a thanks for supporting my efforts. Simply contact me if you'd like to take me up on this offer.
I will post up here when the print version is available for sale. Climb safely and thanks!
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MisterE
Gym climber
Bishop, CA
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Looking forward to the print version.
Can't wait to get back to the place where the wife said "yes".
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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I'm in as soon as it's ready.
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Urizen
Ice climber
Berkeley, CA
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Hey,
It's called a foreword, not a foreward.
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rockgeir
Trad climber
Tucson, AZ
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Topic Author's Reply - Sep 6, 2014 - 07:02pm PT
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Sorry, I was typing quickly on that post. You'll be relieved to know it is correct in the book. :)
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Congratulations to Geir on what may be the first independent repeat of Devoid, an amazing chimneying route between Rockfellow Dome and Chay Desa Tsay. I did the FA of this amazing route with Fig Fiola and did it again with Fig and Dave Baker in the 1980s.
Starting in the Inner Passage between the two formations this amazing route climbs straight up for a full pitch of foot-butt chimneying to a two bolt belay.
Above, the chimney widens to foot-shoulder before forcing the climber onto Rockfellow side for fifty feet until a bolt allows the climber to reconnect with Chay Desa Tsay and the exit pitch to this rare summit. The step across move is absolutely electric!
Geir will not only share this experience with folks that support his guidebook but he is also interested in replacing the handful of bolts that need it on this bold Stronghold classic.
Support Geir and his guide as he is a credit to a very proud area.
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teejayaguilera
Trad climber
Tucson
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I had the pleasure of climbing Devoid with Geir! Thanks to Steve and Fig for having the vision to climb this route! We had a freaking blast!
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rockgeir
Trad climber
Tucson, AZ
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Topic Author's Reply - Sep 6, 2014 - 09:03pm PT
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Thanks Steve!!!
(...not only for your compliments and encouragement, but also for this stellar route!)
TJ climbed Devoid with me, and I can confidently say that our success was fueled as much by his enthusiasm and prowess as mine. On the way down from the climb, we excitedly discussed returning to trade pitches and to replace its bolts.
Devoid is otherworldly; it is nothing like anything I have climbed before. Rockfellow Dome and Chey Desa Tsay are magnificent, imposing domes. Climbing them both simultaneously from out of the dark Inner Passage between them was one of the powerful climbing experiences I have ever had.
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Congrats to both of you on repeating this unique route!
The beauty of climbs like this one that are done boldly and well with minimal bolts is that all of the joys of discovery and exploration that we savored on the FA are there for the next party.
Hearing about how stoked you guys are makes me feel the same and very proud to be a Stronghold pioneer. I knew that illuminating these great and classic lines at the Granitica Festival would lead to some repeats.
As I wrote to Geir, stepping back across to Chay Desa Tsay after being forced to commit to the Rockfellow side is like being the arc between two monster conductors! Nothing else in the Stronghold like Devoid.
Devoid was Fig's idea and the name is also his.
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rockgeir
Trad climber
Tucson, AZ
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Topic Author's Reply - Sep 8, 2014 - 11:28am PT
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I will have to send an email to Fig to thank him for the route as well. :)
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Are you two the first repeat of this route that you are aware of? After Fig, Dave Baker and me did the SA on a frosty fall day I don't think it got done again despite being reasonable at 5.10+.
Apache Tears is the other Stronghold testpiece that I am curious about any repeats.
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BFK
Trad climber
San Francisco, CA
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There's probably a better thread to ask this but when is the next Bean Fest??? Been trying to get my crew out here in CA to check out the Stronghold and the Bean Fest might just be the excuse for a trip. I still remember getting beaned back in 2000, after that everything is a blur!
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rockgeir
Trad climber
Tucson, AZ
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Topic Author's Reply - Sep 8, 2014 - 10:08pm PT
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Hey Steve,
I was at work so I didn't get to answer your earlier question. I haven't spoken directly to Dave Des Champs but I believe he has done Devoid, perhaps in the mid-to-late 90s. So I think TJ and I will have to settle for the 4th ascent.
I too am surprised it has not seen more ascents for its grade. I think part of that is the small amount of firsthand beta out there. I'll be sharing my experience of this route in the second edition of my book; in the mean time I am working up an online description. Devoid is classic in every sense, and it will be delight to recognize it as a stellar example of the bold, clean ethic that defines so much of the Stronghold's climbing.
I don't know of repeats of Apache Tears yet but I suspect some will surface once it gets repeated. :)
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teejayaguilera
Trad climber
Tucson
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I spoke with Dave and he has not climbed Devoid, looks like we had the 3rd ascent. I heard a rumor that Steve climbed a direct finish to the route at some point. Can you confirm or deny that rumor Steve?
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rockgeir
Trad climber
Tucson, AZ
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Topic Author's Reply - Sep 9, 2014 - 01:21pm PT
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Wow that's cool TJ. Thanks for checking!
I am psyched to get back there and replace those bolts. This route is certainly deserving of the hardware upgrade.
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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TJ- We repeated the same route twice leaving the Inner Passage Chimney for a ledge belay and a one bolt finish up the north side of Chay Desa Tsay. Seems like the third pitch was also 5.10+ or so. What did you guys think?
No direct finish or Rockfellow side finish done during those two ascents. The rock above the exit bolt on the second pitch on the Rockfellow side looked climbable as I recall but we were focused on summiting the "Big Windy Rock" Chay Desa Tsay (Paul Davidson's name for the formation when we did As The Wind Cries on the FA).
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