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rockgeir
Trad climber
Tucson, AZ
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Topic Author's Original Post - Jul 13, 2014 - 10:44pm PT
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Hey all,
I just made a new guidebook for Cochise Stronghold available for sale:
Toofast Topos: 50 Multipitch Climbs in Cochise Stronghold
The book is available in PDF format here:
http://www.toofasttopos.com/purchase.html
Enjoy and climb safely...
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Jul 14, 2014 - 07:01pm PT
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For those of you that have been looking for solid route information for this amazing climbing destination I am pleased to support the guidebook that Geir Hundal is offering to the interested public.
Geir has taken the time to go out and do all of the routes listed in this initial offering after several years of readily providing route information and devoting considerable time and effort toward replacing original bolt anchors on the area classics.
I wrote the foreward to this guidebook and Geir has my full support as he truly appreciates and understands the value of bold excellence in execution that has traditionally defined climbing in the Dragoon Mountains.
These routes are the finest that the Cochise Stronghold has to offer and many less than respectable routes have been omitted. A competing effort to this guide may soon appear, the ignominiously named "Best of the Cochise Stronghold" guide, that isn't worth supporting as it is a self-serving "select" guide and not part of an ongoing effort to document the hundreds of quality climbs that have been done here. (Reciprocal tone edit)
Geir is engaged in the long term effort to record these numerous routes and has the support of the old guard Tucson climbing community. Many of these wild and airy routes wait patiently for suitors and remain the measure of Stronghold climbing. Geir has been quietly doing these testpieces in fine style and reporting the result to help the next supplicant in their preparations.
Thank you for investing in this guidebook. Enjoy the Stronghold and keep it Wild and Spicy!
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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Jul 14, 2014 - 07:12pm PT
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Love the area.....saw my first mountain lion there. Great winter venue on impeccable rock with super camping, but "spicy" ..... don"t think so.
Geir does great topos, I'll get the book.
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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Jul 14, 2014 - 07:16pm PT
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Me too!
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Jul 14, 2014 - 07:36pm PT
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Jim- I know that face climbing doesn't get it done for you but several Stronghold old school classics would fill in your stat sheet as "spicy" without so much as a smirk.
You must have lead Abra with P2 & P3 as one lead to get you warmed up.
Let's Make a Deal after that. Of course, you will Shake and Bake on that...Won't ya?!? Bet your Greasy Gizzards, you will.
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sac
Trad climber
Sun Coast B.C.
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Jul 14, 2014 - 08:50pm PT
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Like!!
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ionlyski
Trad climber
Kalispell, Montana
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Jul 14, 2014 - 09:51pm PT
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Jim,
I thought you said that was a jaguar not a mountain lion.
What's up with that dude?
Arne
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survival
Big Wall climber
Terrapin Station
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Jul 14, 2014 - 10:05pm PT
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I can vouch for Toofast topos being real quality!
Ummm, I will also say that I have been on some spicy ground there too.
I have warned many. If it says 5.9+ at Cochise, you should have your big boy pants on.
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deuce4
climber
Hobart, Australia
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Jul 15, 2014 - 06:10am PT
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Spent many an extended weekend in Cochise, and I agree that "spicy" is an apropos description of the arena.
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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Jul 15, 2014 - 07:19am PT
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Sure there are spicy climbs at Cochise but plenty of well protected multi pitch for folks to enjoy. What's this about face climbing? I love it, going out to do some in an hour....just don't seek out slabs but do them when i have to. Went looking for Jaguars near the border...knew I wouldn't see one but it was neat knowing they were in the area.
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Jon Beck
Trad climber
Oceanside
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Jul 15, 2014 - 08:10am PT
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Never been there but Cochise got me hooked on climbing. Saw a Climbing magazine at Sport Chalet in the mid 80s, the cover was a Cochise Stronghold 5.9, a boring cover by today's standards. I read that magazine cover to cover, still have that tattered copy somewhere.
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BFK
Trad climber
San Francisco, CA
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Jul 15, 2014 - 08:38am PT
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SWEET! Been over a decade since I was down there but it's where I got my 'first' trad lesson on Bee Line. I remember seeing some folks on Abra way back during one of the Bean Fests and thinking it looked pretty stout,... might be time to finally get on it!
Hell I'm gonna dig up that old Abra thread from Steve just for the hell of it!
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rockgeir
Trad climber
Tucson, AZ
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 18, 2014 - 01:00pm PT
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Thanks for the props Steve!
I am truly honored that Steve has been so supportive in writing the foreward for the book, providing many of its great photos, and sharing with me a great portion of the Stronghold's history and traditions.
Thanks to all of you who have supported this effort! I have already begun work on the second book.
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drljefe
climber
El Presidio San Augustin del Tucson
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Jul 18, 2014 - 10:51pm PT
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Yes, congrats on the guide!
It's a rare thing for a guide(book)author to have done every route on the list, especially when it includes many hard and bold routes.
So, big props on the guide and your skill and motivation!
Steve.
It's unfortunate that your ringing endorsement of this guide had to be tainted by dissing others and their efforts, as I'm sure the other guide will have its merits as well.
EDITED my post to delete any gas thrown on the fire
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MisterE
climber
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Jul 18, 2014 - 10:53pm PT
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Super psyched to get an up-dated guidebook to one of our favorite climbing areas!
Thanks for all your work and sketchy run-outs!
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Jul 19, 2014 - 09:29am PT
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Lots of folks are biting their tongues and tip toeing around one man who long ago ceased to post on climbing forums for obvious reasons. I refuse to do so any more and my purpose in being openly critical is solid and clear when it comes to this area and the guidebook to this special place which requires a certain measure of vision and integrity in my opinion.
You two are good solid folks and sorry that you are put off by my position but I stand by it. I said no to the other guidebook author long ago on principle and things have gotten much worse since.
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justthemaid
climber
Jim Henson's Basement
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Jul 19, 2014 - 09:33am PT
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I *heart* Cochise.
The politics of guidebook writing aside...
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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Jul 19, 2014 - 09:41am PT
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I have used Geir's topos and I think they are excellent. I will purchase his guidebook for my next trip down to Cochise. His effort is, however, a "select" offering as is the proposed competing one. If the other "select" offering has information not supplied by Geir I may also be interested in it. My purchase of guides has always been based on the quality of the information provided not the person who authored it.
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BrassNuts
Trad climber
Save your a_s, reach for the brass...
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Jul 19, 2014 - 10:34am PT
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Hey Geir, it was nice to meet you down in Cochise this Spring, keep up the good work down there and nice job on your guide book to date! Props for climbing all the routes to ensure accurate information.
As a somewhat frequent outside visitor to Cochise, I have to admit I'm disappointed in a number of "new school" routes that have been developed down there in recent years. While a fair number of these new routes are good quality, quite a few others are squeezed or contrived in my opinion, so I understand SG's stance. Overall, Cochise is still one of the best SW desert climbing destinations, love it down there!
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Jul 27, 2014 - 09:57am PT
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Bump for a quality guidebook.
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survival
Big Wall climber
Terrapin Station
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Jul 27, 2014 - 07:43pm PT
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Well, I've only done 25+ routes there, and I think I've got a good mix, but DAMN, I liked them all!!
Very interesting comments by all.
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rockgeir
Trad climber
Tucson, AZ
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 2, 2014 - 09:29pm PT
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Thanks all for your comments. Cochise Stronghold is truly a special place; many of my most treasured climbing experiences have been there.
I've met several of the great folks that have posted up here. Hopefully I'll have the honor of meeting the rest of you in the Stronghold down the road. Look me up if you come to town!
Thanks,
Geir
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rockgeir
Trad climber
Tucson, AZ
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 16, 2014 - 11:59am PT
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Bump for prime Rockfellow season just around the corner. I am psyched to track down some more of the hidden gems here and expand the guide!
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rockgeir
Trad climber
Tucson, AZ
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Topic Author's Reply - Sep 6, 2014 - 11:03am PT
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Bump for beautiful temps in the Stronghold!! (Although it's a little buggy in places so consider bringing along some repellant.)
I have had a number of requests for a print version of the book. I am happy to announce that this will be available shortly. For individuals who have already purchased the PDF guide, I am planning to offer a reduced price for the print version as a thanks for supporting my efforts. Simply contact me if you'd like to take me up on this offer.
I will post up here when the print version is available for sale. Climb safely and thanks!
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MisterE
Gym climber
Bishop, CA
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Looking forward to the print version.
Can't wait to get back to the place where the wife said "yes".
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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I'm in as soon as it's ready.
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Urizen
Ice climber
Berkeley, CA
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Hey,
It's called a foreword, not a foreward.
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rockgeir
Trad climber
Tucson, AZ
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Topic Author's Reply - Sep 6, 2014 - 07:02pm PT
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Sorry, I was typing quickly on that post. You'll be relieved to know it is correct in the book. :)
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Congratulations to Geir on what may be the first independent repeat of Devoid, an amazing chimneying route between Rockfellow Dome and Chay Desa Tsay. I did the FA of this amazing route with Fig Fiola and did it again with Fig and Dave Baker in the 1980s.
Starting in the Inner Passage between the two formations this amazing route climbs straight up for a full pitch of foot-butt chimneying to a two bolt belay.
Above, the chimney widens to foot-shoulder before forcing the climber onto Rockfellow side for fifty feet until a bolt allows the climber to reconnect with Chay Desa Tsay and the exit pitch to this rare summit. The step across move is absolutely electric!
Geir will not only share this experience with folks that support his guidebook but he is also interested in replacing the handful of bolts that need it on this bold Stronghold classic.
Support Geir and his guide as he is a credit to a very proud area.
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teejayaguilera
Trad climber
Tucson
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I had the pleasure of climbing Devoid with Geir! Thanks to Steve and Fig for having the vision to climb this route! We had a freaking blast!
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rockgeir
Trad climber
Tucson, AZ
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Topic Author's Reply - Sep 6, 2014 - 09:03pm PT
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Thanks Steve!!!
(...not only for your compliments and encouragement, but also for this stellar route!)
TJ climbed Devoid with me, and I can confidently say that our success was fueled as much by his enthusiasm and prowess as mine. On the way down from the climb, we excitedly discussed returning to trade pitches and to replace its bolts.
Devoid is otherworldly; it is nothing like anything I have climbed before. Rockfellow Dome and Chey Desa Tsay are magnificent, imposing domes. Climbing them both simultaneously from out of the dark Inner Passage between them was one of the powerful climbing experiences I have ever had.
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Congrats to both of you on repeating this unique route!
The beauty of climbs like this one that are done boldly and well with minimal bolts is that all of the joys of discovery and exploration that we savored on the FA are there for the next party.
Hearing about how stoked you guys are makes me feel the same and very proud to be a Stronghold pioneer. I knew that illuminating these great and classic lines at the Granitica Festival would lead to some repeats.
As I wrote to Geir, stepping back across to Chay Desa Tsay after being forced to commit to the Rockfellow side is like being the arc between two monster conductors! Nothing else in the Stronghold like Devoid.
Devoid was Fig's idea and the name is also his.
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rockgeir
Trad climber
Tucson, AZ
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Topic Author's Reply - Sep 8, 2014 - 11:28am PT
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I will have to send an email to Fig to thank him for the route as well. :)
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Are you two the first repeat of this route that you are aware of? After Fig, Dave Baker and me did the SA on a frosty fall day I don't think it got done again despite being reasonable at 5.10+.
Apache Tears is the other Stronghold testpiece that I am curious about any repeats.
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BFK
Trad climber
San Francisco, CA
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There's probably a better thread to ask this but when is the next Bean Fest??? Been trying to get my crew out here in CA to check out the Stronghold and the Bean Fest might just be the excuse for a trip. I still remember getting beaned back in 2000, after that everything is a blur!
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rockgeir
Trad climber
Tucson, AZ
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Topic Author's Reply - Sep 8, 2014 - 10:08pm PT
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Hey Steve,
I was at work so I didn't get to answer your earlier question. I haven't spoken directly to Dave Des Champs but I believe he has done Devoid, perhaps in the mid-to-late 90s. So I think TJ and I will have to settle for the 4th ascent.
I too am surprised it has not seen more ascents for its grade. I think part of that is the small amount of firsthand beta out there. I'll be sharing my experience of this route in the second edition of my book; in the mean time I am working up an online description. Devoid is classic in every sense, and it will be delight to recognize it as a stellar example of the bold, clean ethic that defines so much of the Stronghold's climbing.
I don't know of repeats of Apache Tears yet but I suspect some will surface once it gets repeated. :)
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teejayaguilera
Trad climber
Tucson
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I spoke with Dave and he has not climbed Devoid, looks like we had the 3rd ascent. I heard a rumor that Steve climbed a direct finish to the route at some point. Can you confirm or deny that rumor Steve?
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rockgeir
Trad climber
Tucson, AZ
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Topic Author's Reply - Sep 9, 2014 - 01:21pm PT
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Wow that's cool TJ. Thanks for checking!
I am psyched to get back there and replace those bolts. This route is certainly deserving of the hardware upgrade.
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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TJ- We repeated the same route twice leaving the Inner Passage Chimney for a ledge belay and a one bolt finish up the north side of Chay Desa Tsay. Seems like the third pitch was also 5.10+ or so. What did you guys think?
No direct finish or Rockfellow side finish done during those two ascents. The rock above the exit bolt on the second pitch on the Rockfellow side looked climbable as I recall but we were focused on summiting the "Big Windy Rock" Chay Desa Tsay (Paul Davidson's name for the formation when we did As The Wind Cries on the FA).
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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My routes are low maintenance. Up in a day and redone in the same. LOL
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teejayaguilera
Trad climber
Tucson
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Sep 10, 2014 - 11:03am PT
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It seemed like the 3rd pitch was not quite 10+, it felt more like 10a/b to Geir and me. What do you think Geir?
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rockgeir
Trad climber
Tucson, AZ
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Topic Author's Reply - Sep 10, 2014 - 03:43pm PT
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Hey TJ,
I felt like the third pitch could be solid .10. It is hard to say for sure because I was so amped up from the first two pitches. We have to swap those bolts out anyway so it will be interesting to see what you think of it on lead.
Heading straight up at the end of the face climbing section on the Rock fellows leads directly into Sensory Desuetude's 4th pitch. It seems doable, especially if you have climbed Devoid to that point!
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rockgeir
Trad climber
Tucson, AZ
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Topic Author's Reply - Sep 11, 2014 - 11:12pm PT
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The print version of the guidebook is now available to purchase! We will begin shipping on 9/29.
We partnered with CreateSpace to print the book. We are very happy with how the final product looks!!
If you would like to purchase either version of the guide, visit
http://www.toofasttopos.com/purchase.html
Thanks!
Geir
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rick d
climber
ol pueblo, az
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Sep 12, 2014 - 04:24pm PT
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saw this book first hand (rockgeir works across the hall from me).
excellent job!
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rockgeir
Trad climber
Tucson, AZ
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Topic Author's Reply - Sep 12, 2014 - 09:03pm PT
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Wow! Thanks Rick!!! I am psyched you liked it!
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ionlyski
Trad climber
Kalispell, Montana
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Sep 13, 2014 - 10:07am PT
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Just purchased the download last night. Place looks awesome! I have my trip planned November 6th - 17th. Is that an OK season?
Will probably buy the print version before we come down. My only reservation; although I'm firmly on the side of old school ethics and preserving it, my climbing at the moment is off the couch and the guide seems to be predominately 5.11+ R routes, and I know these are the REAL 5.11. Geir admits they're all scary, run out fright fests. But then I don't just want to spend time on routes of the opposite extreme either. Is there much in the way of 5.9's & 5.10' with good natural pro?
I'd rather not climb too many 5.7 slab routes though, so hoping there are some steeper moderates with a little adventure!
Arne
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karabin museum
Trad climber
phoenix, az
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Sep 13, 2014 - 11:27am PT
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Geir climbed at the Phoenix Rock Gym yesterday and showed me his new guidebook. It is fantastic! Tons of information, colored photos and history. The hard copy of the book should be ready soon!
Great work Geir! This book the author should be proud of for sure!
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steelmnkey
climber
Vision man...ya gotta have vision...
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Sep 13, 2014 - 12:11pm PT
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Wait... rick WORKS??
(just kidding rick)
Awesome job knocking this thing out Geir!!
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ontheedgeandscaredtodeath
Social climber
SLO, Ca
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Sep 13, 2014 - 01:59pm PT
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Ion- take a look at Wasteland, Forest Lawn to Pair-a-Grins, Days of Future, Cragoholics Dream, Arribas Ameobes, Warpaint, Stampede, Beeline, Moby Dick, Cap'n Pissgums (bwahaha) etc. You will love it there!
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rockgeir
Trad climber
Tucson, AZ
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Topic Author's Reply - Sep 17, 2014 - 02:03pm PT
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Thanks Marty and Greg!
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rockgeir
Trad climber
Tucson, AZ
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Topic Author's Reply - Sep 17, 2014 - 02:40pm PT
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Arne,
To the list above consider Dreamscape Buttress, Dustdevils, Mystery of the Desert, and some of the Sheepshead climbs. They might have what you are looking for.
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ionlyski
Trad climber
Kalispell, Montana
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Sep 17, 2014 - 09:05pm PT
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Bump and thanks for more suggestions.
On gear, are there a few non-standard pieces that might come in handy at Cochise? Like some offsets maybe? I have no experience with slider nuts or balls or whatever you call them but my mind is open.
Once again, is early to mid November a pretty good bet?
I cannot wait!
Arne
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rockgeir
Trad climber
Tucson, AZ
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Topic Author's Reply - Sep 18, 2014 - 11:59am PT
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Arne,
Early to mid November is wonderful. Some of the routes that never see sun start to get chilly at this time; I usually bring an extra layer for use when I am belaying.
For routes that require a full rack, I usually bring stoppers, two sets of cams from .3” to 4”, and extendable draws. For some of the older routes, brass nuts and Tricams are also helpful. If you are planning on doing some of the chimney or offwidth climbs, 5” and 6” cams will be handy.
I use Ball Nuts #1-#3 on some of the really hairball lines, but they are certainly not required on most routes.
You will love this place! Enjoy your trip!
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Nov 28, 2014 - 12:03pm PT
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Happy Birthday Geir!
I hope that you had a grand time celebrating in the Stronghold.
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Apr 29, 2015 - 12:49pm PT
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Bump for Springtime 2015...
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steelmnkey
climber
Vision man...ya gotta have vision...
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Apr 29, 2015 - 04:41pm PT
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Would like to have been down there this spring.
Unfortunately, I'm redefining the term "shoulder season."
There's always fall.
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little Z
Trad climber
un cafetal en Naranjo
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Apr 29, 2015 - 08:32pm PT
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where do I go (on ST) to see some photos of Stronghold climbs?
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rockgeir
Trad climber
Tucson, AZ
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Topic Author's Reply - May 4, 2015 - 11:41am PT
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Thanks for the bump Steve!
I hope your shoulder gets well soon Greg. Let me know when you'll be in the area.
Many thanks to all of you who have purchased the guidebook so far. It's available through our website at www.ToofastTopos.com, locally at Summit Hut and the gym, as well as on Amazon.
I'm happy to report that I am hard at work on the next book. As with the first book, I am climbing every route ground-up and documenting each of the routes as I go along. My partners and I are coming across hardware on some of the older routes that is badly in need of replacement, so we are taking care of this as we are able.
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Mar 18, 2017 - 03:22pm PT
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Geir has been hard at work on the latest version of this guidebook to the entire Cochise Stronghold. One hundred of the best multi-pitch climbs in this wonderful area all rendered nicely and based on direct experience having been climbed personally by the author. Geir has also been replacing the bolts on the routes as he repeats them which takes a lot of time and effort done in the spirit of service to the community.
Geir and a core group of Tucson tigers have systematically repeated and refitted almost all of the boldest routes done here and they are really enjoying the hell out of these classic and demanding routes after a long period where they had few suitors.
Buy this excellent guidebook and support Geir in his ongoing work on the guidebook and with the Climbers Association of Southern Arizona (CASA).
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