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dee ee
Mountain climber
citizen of planet Earth
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Jul 11, 2014 - 03:05pm PT
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HEY, I did that chimney pitch on Shangri-La too (early '80's)! So, that must have been my first 5.12!
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clinker
Trad climber
Santa Cruz, California
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Jul 11, 2014 - 03:13pm PT
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5.12 in 61? You must B 1 hell of a storyteller.
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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Jul 11, 2014 - 03:30pm PT
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Dudes....what's the Thimble? Steve Wunsch and I couldn't top rope it in 1974 and John Gill soloed it in 61. 5.12 for sure!!! By the way, it's over a metal guard rail that reminds me of the blade of a guillotine.
It's in the Needles area of the Black Hills. John Gill became my instant hero after I flailed on it.
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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Jul 11, 2014 - 03:47pm PT
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Ha, ha, ha....yeah the Gunks are soft....not!
In my prime in the 70's I did a number of 5.11 FA's in the Valley. One, Overhang Overpass, Bacher thought was 5.12...that was 74. It's now rated 11c but without cams or sticky rubber things were a wee bit testy bitd.
Then i spent a couple of decades pursuing alpine climbing.
In the last couple of decades after I turned 50 I did a few climbs "rated" 5.12 including a sport climb a couple of years ago. Probably the first one with a guidebook rating of 5.12 was "Way Rambo" in IC about fifteen years ago. Hard to compare with ratings all over the place and having gotten softer over the years.
There does seem to be an over emphasis on ratings today. People find climbs that fit their comfort zone and then "work" the hell out of them to get the number. Lot's of climbers who have red pointed a 5.12 can't consistently climb every type of 5.10 anywhere, anytime.
If you don't want to leave your comfort zone because you can't get the numbers you want, you're missing out on a lot of good climbing.
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clinker
Trad climber
Santa Cruz, California
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Jul 11, 2014 - 03:50pm PT
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Gill was a mythical creature, made up by the climbing gods, so they could have a deity to worship like us mortals.
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Jingy
climber
Somewhere out there
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Jul 11, 2014 - 04:03pm PT
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yeah.... since all the climbers in the area before you were such.,... (uhm, uhmm) awesome climbers that as a new forum poster you should have no problem....
cheers
Good luck on the 5.12 outdoor send...
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Todd Eastman
climber
Bellingham, WA
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Jul 11, 2014 - 04:11pm PT
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Yo Sack, don't go all Cristie on us...
... the crew at the Gunks will work you harder than us.
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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Jul 11, 2014 - 04:13pm PT
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I know that it should be "no" clue. Say my nephew and his fourteen year old daughter are coming out to visit tomorrow from New Jersey. I hope she doesn't miss the Garden State too much. My sister lives in Cape May, we have soooo much in common Sack.
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drljefe
climber
El Presidio San Augustin del Tucson
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Jul 11, 2014 - 04:14pm PT
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Definitely trolling.
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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Jul 11, 2014 - 04:16pm PT
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Yeah....I think Sack actually lives in El Portal, Bishop or Boulder.
Sack....please remove the hook, I think you used treble, barbed hooks.
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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Jul 11, 2014 - 05:50pm PT
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Large sack, I usually find that gym 12a's are about 4 grades easier than outside, another thing to consider is that gym climbing doesn't count for sh#t if you are a grade chaser (obviously).
Soooooooooooo. Congrats on your first 11a!! Good for you dude!!!
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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Jul 11, 2014 - 06:21pm PT
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Large sack!!
Wow I can't believe you did 12a in the gym!! You really made a difference in the world today man. I wish your large sack was closer to my face so I could properly cup it.
Do you mind if I tell all my friends on Facebook and Twitter how rad you are?
Do you mind if I copy your idea and start my own thread asking everyone to blow me & rub my feet because I'm important because I climbed a bunch of holds some stoned, college dropout poofter bolted to a wall in a dank warehouse that is perpetually cranking the worst music on the planet?
Woah!! You do parcore and free running?!?!
Sorry I didn't know you were so great, I wish you would have just said so in the first place. Can we start over I'm so sorry I offended you.
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dee ee
Mountain climber
citizen of planet Earth
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Jul 11, 2014 - 08:28pm PT
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Sorry to Jim but New Jersey sucks.
Do they have real rock there or do you have to go to Central Park NYC?
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clinker
Trad climber
Santa Cruz, California
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Jul 11, 2014 - 08:30pm PT
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Do you mind if I copy your idea and start my own thread asking everyone to blow me & rub my feet because I'm important because I climbed a bunch of holds some stoned, college dropout poofter bolted to a wall in a dank warehouse that is perpetually cranking the worst music on the planet?
Freakin funny as hell!
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jstan
climber
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Jul 11, 2014 - 08:36pm PT
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Jul 11, 2014 - 11:38am PT
The Throne was my first 5.12 back around 83, of course back then it was only 11+, done yoyo style on lead. GR
Don't remember any Yo yoing on that one. But it was 41 years ago.
We were really into tens at the time.
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KabalaArch
Trad climber
Starlite, California
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Jul 11, 2014 - 09:01pm PT
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parkor
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Todd Eastman
climber
Bellingham, WA
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Jul 11, 2014 - 09:15pm PT
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parkor
I think that's off Rt. 17!
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James
climber
My twin brother's laundry room
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Jul 11, 2014 - 10:12pm PT
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Sentry Box (a)- it took me a couple tries and Bryan Sweeney, a boulderer, belayed me. My second 5.12 (c) was Flight of the Challenger at Murrin Park. That really opened my eyes to climbing harder.
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coolrockclimberguy69
climber
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Jul 11, 2014 - 11:09pm PT
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on my first 5.12 i clipped the first clip, hung on the bolt and squirted a bunch of runny diareah into my prana yoga pants. felt like a f*#kin toolbag. my belayer lowered me and i went and hung out at the car for the rest of the day. this was back in 98 when 5.12 was the real deal.
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