Discussion Topic |
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j-tree
Big Wall climber
Typewriters and Ledges
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Jul 10, 2014 - 06:07pm PT
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Dike Route in Tuolumne when I was new at 5.9 leading.
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NutAgain!
Trad climber
South Pasadena, CA
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Jul 10, 2014 - 06:17pm PT
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That one in the back wall at Berkeley Ironworks, where they usually have pal opposition and stemming problems to the right of the slabby wall.
Probably that was the only one, and it was a few years ago.
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sandstone conglomerate
climber
sharon conglomerate central
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Jul 10, 2014 - 06:23pm PT
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i had a 5.12 bout of stomach flu once. When i was awoken in the middle of night by a ferocious gurgling, i performed 5.12 moves getting to the toilet before soiling an already soiled bed. i'd take 30 ft. whippers over that hell any day
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Todd Eastman
climber
Bellingham, WA
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Jul 10, 2014 - 06:32pm PT
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5.12 is the realm of experts, what do Stuportopians know about 5.12...
... these days?
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thebravecowboy
climber
in the face of the fury of the funk
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Jul 10, 2014 - 06:38pm PT
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what is 5.12?
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bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
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Jul 10, 2014 - 07:08pm PT
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All the most hardest gnar gnar sh#t I ever did was about 5.11c. At Woodson. In the 70's. And I can still do that crap now, so bite me.
American Legend, bitches.
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jgill
Boulder climber
Colorado
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Jul 10, 2014 - 07:15pm PT
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because I send one in the gym...
If you're in the eighth grade you get a pass on this.
Edit: Aha! You corrected it. I was referring to the spelling error.
Well done in the gym! Now go outside.
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mojede
Trad climber
Butte, America
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Jul 10, 2014 - 07:37pm PT
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I top-roped this hard, road side climb in the Needles of South Dakota--someone has probably graded it 5.12...
Called "The Thimble", I believe
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TwistedCrank
climber
Released into general population, Idaho
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Jul 10, 2014 - 08:16pm PT
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Once you lead 5.9, you're just plain done,
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Vitaliy M.
Mountain climber
San Francisco
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Jul 10, 2014 - 08:28pm PT
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J-tree, that thing makes the testicles really really small. Friend and I were looking for something chill and slabby day after we did astroman. We were sore as hell from astroman, and climb was not at all chill on that one pitch lol.
Mine was some pitch on Texas holdem in RR. Maybe the softest 12a ever. I am no 5.12 climber
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Kalimon
Social climber
Ridgway, CO
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Jul 10, 2014 - 08:31pm PT
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Dos Hermanos, IC . . . probably been downgraded to 11c.
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snowhazed
Trad climber
Oaksterdam, CA
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Jul 10, 2014 - 08:39pm PT
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anunaki at the creek, though many say it is soft
9 lives at the creek, also a softie
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rick d
climber
ol pueblo, az
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Jul 10, 2014 - 09:01pm PT
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Chimney pitch on Shangri La in Monument valley.
as Tim aka ontheedgescared...
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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Jul 11, 2014 - 12:15am PT
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Youth gone wild at Pet wall in Squamish. Least classic route on the crag, way soft too. Lol.
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mcreel
climber
Barcelona
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Jul 11, 2014 - 05:29am PT
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5.12 is the realm of experts, what do Stuportopians know about 5.12...
... these days?
Hah, we can remember what 5.12 was like before it got inflated to 5.13! This is good, though, because you can get old and feeble and still climb the grades you did 25 years ago (or pretty close, at least).
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mcreel
climber
Barcelona
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Jul 11, 2014 - 06:08am PT
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Lucky for you, ratings at the Gunks are soft. You should have no problems.
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Vitaliy M.
Mountain climber
San Francisco
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Jul 11, 2014 - 08:33am PT
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I'm new to this forum and thanks to the people who are nice. And f*#k off to the dick heads. I was pretty happy about my 5.12. Now I have to do one on real rock.
Some will probably laugh, but I am super excited when I get a 5.12a clean, at the gym, on top rope! So enjoy it and welcome to the forum! It has some interesting stuff and a lot of garbage. Don't take it too serious.
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Gunks Ray
Trad climber
Gunks
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Jul 11, 2014 - 11:38am PT
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The Throne was my first 5.12 back around 83, of course back then it was only 11+, done yoyo style on lead. A lot would depend on whether you are planning on leading or top roping. Lots of good 12's in the Gunks to top rope, not many easy 12's to lead. Kansas City and Project X would both make good safe leads but they are not easy 12's. There are a number of good 11+ to mid 12 routes that are easy to top rope in the Nears around Birdland, as long as you can trad lead solid 5.8 to 5.10 to put up the anchors.
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clinker
Trad climber
Santa Cruz, California
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Jul 11, 2014 - 12:06pm PT
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Truth or Consequence Pinns west side.
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jgill
Boulder climber
Colorado
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Jul 11, 2014 - 12:19pm PT
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Thimble 1961
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dee ee
Mountain climber
citizen of planet Earth
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Jul 11, 2014 - 03:05pm PT
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HEY, I did that chimney pitch on Shangri-La too (early '80's)! So, that must have been my first 5.12!
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clinker
Trad climber
Santa Cruz, California
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Jul 11, 2014 - 03:13pm PT
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5.12 in 61? You must B 1 hell of a storyteller.
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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Jul 11, 2014 - 03:30pm PT
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Dudes....what's the Thimble? Steve Wunsch and I couldn't top rope it in 1974 and John Gill soloed it in 61. 5.12 for sure!!! By the way, it's over a metal guard rail that reminds me of the blade of a guillotine.
It's in the Needles area of the Black Hills. John Gill became my instant hero after I flailed on it.
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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Jul 11, 2014 - 03:47pm PT
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Ha, ha, ha....yeah the Gunks are soft....not!
In my prime in the 70's I did a number of 5.11 FA's in the Valley. One, Overhang Overpass, Bacher thought was 5.12...that was 74. It's now rated 11c but without cams or sticky rubber things were a wee bit testy bitd.
Then i spent a couple of decades pursuing alpine climbing.
In the last couple of decades after I turned 50 I did a few climbs "rated" 5.12 including a sport climb a couple of years ago. Probably the first one with a guidebook rating of 5.12 was "Way Rambo" in IC about fifteen years ago. Hard to compare with ratings all over the place and having gotten softer over the years.
There does seem to be an over emphasis on ratings today. People find climbs that fit their comfort zone and then "work" the hell out of them to get the number. Lot's of climbers who have red pointed a 5.12 can't consistently climb every type of 5.10 anywhere, anytime.
If you don't want to leave your comfort zone because you can't get the numbers you want, you're missing out on a lot of good climbing.
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clinker
Trad climber
Santa Cruz, California
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Jul 11, 2014 - 03:50pm PT
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Gill was a mythical creature, made up by the climbing gods, so they could have a deity to worship like us mortals.
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Jingy
climber
Somewhere out there
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Jul 11, 2014 - 04:03pm PT
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yeah.... since all the climbers in the area before you were such.,... (uhm, uhmm) awesome climbers that as a new forum poster you should have no problem....
cheers
Good luck on the 5.12 outdoor send...
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Todd Eastman
climber
Bellingham, WA
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Jul 11, 2014 - 04:11pm PT
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Yo Sack, don't go all Cristie on us...
... the crew at the Gunks will work you harder than us.
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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Jul 11, 2014 - 04:13pm PT
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I know that it should be "no" clue. Say my nephew and his fourteen year old daughter are coming out to visit tomorrow from New Jersey. I hope she doesn't miss the Garden State too much. My sister lives in Cape May, we have soooo much in common Sack.
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drljefe
climber
El Presidio San Augustin del Tucson
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Jul 11, 2014 - 04:14pm PT
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Definitely trolling.
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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Jul 11, 2014 - 04:16pm PT
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Yeah....I think Sack actually lives in El Portal, Bishop or Boulder.
Sack....please remove the hook, I think you used treble, barbed hooks.
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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Jul 11, 2014 - 05:50pm PT
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Large sack, I usually find that gym 12a's are about 4 grades easier than outside, another thing to consider is that gym climbing doesn't count for sh#t if you are a grade chaser (obviously).
Soooooooooooo. Congrats on your first 11a!! Good for you dude!!!
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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Jul 11, 2014 - 06:21pm PT
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Large sack!!
Wow I can't believe you did 12a in the gym!! You really made a difference in the world today man. I wish your large sack was closer to my face so I could properly cup it.
Do you mind if I tell all my friends on Facebook and Twitter how rad you are?
Do you mind if I copy your idea and start my own thread asking everyone to blow me & rub my feet because I'm important because I climbed a bunch of holds some stoned, college dropout poofter bolted to a wall in a dank warehouse that is perpetually cranking the worst music on the planet?
Woah!! You do parcore and free running?!?!
Sorry I didn't know you were so great, I wish you would have just said so in the first place. Can we start over I'm so sorry I offended you.
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dee ee
Mountain climber
citizen of planet Earth
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Jul 11, 2014 - 08:28pm PT
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Sorry to Jim but New Jersey sucks.
Do they have real rock there or do you have to go to Central Park NYC?
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clinker
Trad climber
Santa Cruz, California
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Jul 11, 2014 - 08:30pm PT
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Do you mind if I copy your idea and start my own thread asking everyone to blow me & rub my feet because I'm important because I climbed a bunch of holds some stoned, college dropout poofter bolted to a wall in a dank warehouse that is perpetually cranking the worst music on the planet?
Freakin funny as hell!
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jstan
climber
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Jul 11, 2014 - 08:36pm PT
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Jul 11, 2014 - 11:38am PT
The Throne was my first 5.12 back around 83, of course back then it was only 11+, done yoyo style on lead. GR
Don't remember any Yo yoing on that one. But it was 41 years ago.
We were really into tens at the time.
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KabalaArch
Trad climber
Starlite, California
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Jul 11, 2014 - 09:01pm PT
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parkor
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Todd Eastman
climber
Bellingham, WA
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Jul 11, 2014 - 09:15pm PT
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parkor
I think that's off Rt. 17!
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James
climber
My twin brother's laundry room
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Jul 11, 2014 - 10:12pm PT
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Sentry Box (a)- it took me a couple tries and Bryan Sweeney, a boulderer, belayed me. My second 5.12 (c) was Flight of the Challenger at Murrin Park. That really opened my eyes to climbing harder.
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coolrockclimberguy69
climber
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Jul 11, 2014 - 11:09pm PT
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on my first 5.12 i clipped the first clip, hung on the bolt and squirted a bunch of runny diareah into my prana yoga pants. felt like a f*#kin toolbag. my belayer lowered me and i went and hung out at the car for the rest of the day. this was back in 98 when 5.12 was the real deal.
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| Messages 1 - 39 of total 39 in this topic |
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