Rearick Handstand on the Horn?

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Eric Beck

Sport climber
Bishop, California
Topic Author's Original Post - Jun 24, 2014 - 11:22am PT
A long time ago I heard that Dave Rearick, while leading, did a handstand on the Traitor Horn (Tahquitz). Has anyone else heard this? Can anyone verify it? Rearick was a gymnast, this is not that far fetched. Does anyone have a nice picture of the Horn?

Dave Rearick is best known for the FA of the Diamond with Bob Kamps.
Ed Hartouni

Trad climber
Livermore, CA
Jun 24, 2014 - 01:18pm PT
check out Lauria's thread:
http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.php?topic_id=727870&msg=2302836#msg2302836

these photos were there


jgill

Boulder climber
Colorado
Jun 24, 2014 - 01:26pm PT
I'll ask Dave in a few days.
skcreidc

Social climber
SD, CA
Jun 24, 2014 - 03:38pm PT
Horn bump. Maybe from this movie...according to Mountain Project?

Ksolem

Trad climber
Monrovia, California
Jun 24, 2014 - 04:00pm PT
We used to solo that thing and try to get relaxed enough to take leak while standing on the horn. Sometimes yes, sometimes no (beer helped.) Then the big hold which makes traversing out easy started looking like it could possibly break. That was the end of that.

Handstand? Beyond my comprehension. But then so are lots of things...
Anxious Melancholy

Mountain climber
Between the Depths of Despair & Heights of Folly
Jun 24, 2014 - 04:12pm PT
DMT,

In the first picture above, looking slightly down at Dolt, he is crossing the "traitor horn" which looks bigger from below. Have you done this route? As you go up the left slanting crack of the first pitch you loose sight of the true horn. You might think you got it in the bag as you easily traverse over and around the traitor horn, only then to be confronted by the true horn and all its wonderful exposure above the Open Book.
TGT

Social climber
So Cal
Jun 24, 2014 - 05:39pm PT
After I first did the climb, I tried to talk my younger brother into doing that on a TR.

He was at the time ranked 2nd or 3rd in the state for high school gymnastics on the pommel horse.

He was having none of it.

Traitor Horn is where I met Woody and Blake about 40 years later.


liz had decided to punish the boys by making us do Pearly Gates that day.

McHale's Navy

Trad climber
From Panorama City, CA
Jun 24, 2014 - 08:03pm PT
Cool.....have never seen a pic of anyone climbing PG nor have I seen anyone doing Pearly Gates. Never ever heard of anyone doing a handstand on the Horn....seems like a story like that would have gone virul.....even BITD......and then everyone would have been doing it!
dee ee

Mountain climber
citizen of planet Earth
Jun 24, 2014 - 10:45pm PT
You can't call yourself a Tahquitz climber if you haven't done the "Pearly Gates."

Spray factor IV.
nutstory

climber
Ajaccio, Corsica, France
Jun 25, 2014 - 04:31am PT
I confess that this photograph is a little out of topic... Dave Rearick created his own chocks from wood of the Osage orange tree. Dave and George Hurley used them for the first all-wood ascent of Twister in 1973. Dave Rearick's " Plugs " as he called them were, though, very strong. He tested them thoroughly, and gave Pat Ament a full set, as a present, including his Clapper, an adjustable wooden nut for wide cracks. I am still working hard to get the design details and some good photos of the Clapper from Pat. I would like to remake an exact copy of this really interesting device for the Nuts Museum.

Bob Ryan tells that Dave Rearick gave him a set of six wooden nuts. Bob in turn has given these very rare nuts to me for the Nuts Museum a while ago. Bob also relates this anecdote: "I spoke with Dave, and he reminded me that I had taken a leader fall on the third pitch of Werk Supp. This was in May 1978. The nut jammed so that I had to return later with a tire iron to knock it out."


perswig

climber
Jun 25, 2014 - 05:41am PT
^^
Awesome gear!

Dale
skcreidc

Social climber
SD, CA
Jun 25, 2014 - 08:20am PT
Hawk! ^^^^ You are right on and straight in. We been practicing for just this type of thing.

sorry 'bout bailing today :(



Nice wood plugs!
micronut

Trad climber
Fresno/Clovis, ca
Jun 25, 2014 - 08:26am PT
Sweet woodies man. What a cool piece of craftsmanship.
nutstory

climber
Ajaccio, Corsica, France
Jun 25, 2014 - 08:39am PT
Oh yes micronut, these little wonders are very carefully hand-made. Real gems!
And here is a "poor" photograph of the Clapper. Another treasure...
crunch

Social climber
CO
Jun 25, 2014 - 09:06am PT
Rearick did a handstand on the summit of Dark Angel, in Arches National Park, first ascent. He may well have done handstands all kinds of other places....
Eric Beck

Sport climber
Bishop, California
Topic Author's Reply - Jun 25, 2014 - 10:41am PT
Apparently it never happened. I just received the following pm fron Bonnie Kamps, Bob's widow:

Thank you for posting the story of the Traitor Horn handstand by my old and dear friend, Dave Rearick. I just called him to verify as I didn't want to wait for John Gill's post. And no, he didn't. He did take the well known photos, though. He said the Horn just wasn't conducive for a handstand. John will learn of, and I hope post, some unlikely sites where Dave did do handstands. I witnessed one In Jackson on a parking meter. I seem to remember that the local law enforcement discouraged repeats. I do have a photo of Dave doing a handstand on a large wooden railing in a parking lot near Estes Park shortly after D1.

I don't post on Supertopo. Too brutal an arena for me. You may share any of this if you find it interesting.

Bonnie

The Kamps-Rearick route on the Diamond has become known as D1.
JEleazarian

Trad climber
Fresno CA
Jun 25, 2014 - 11:07am PT
Boy, Bonnie's pm says it all -- both good and bad. Contrary to behavior by some here, we can have civilized discussions on any topic -- even politics, religion and climbing style and ethics -- but it takes extra effort on our part.

Meanwhile, where else would we have gotten the information that came out on this thread? Thanks, Eric, for starting it, and to everyone else for excellent contributions.

John
mooser

Trad climber
seattle
Jun 25, 2014 - 01:08pm PT
"Too brutal and arena for me"


You read that ?


STopo would be such a great place if more folks felt they could post here without having their heads torn off.

Thanks for highlighting that, Tami. I do wonder who'd throw some amazing recollections into the ring, if it weren't for how things can quickly deteriorate.

Cheers,

Tom
overwatch

climber
Jun 25, 2014 - 01:18pm PT
I started lurking in the early 2000's and have watched the exodus ever since
nutstory

climber
Ajaccio, Corsica, France
Jun 27, 2014 - 01:16am PT
I have thought that such treasures were worth taking a more accurate photograph… Now you will notice how the holes have been very carefully drilled by Dave Rearick, and the edges cautiously machined to avoid damaging the rope.
Messages 1 - 20 of total 33 in this topic << First  |  < Previous  |  Show All  |  Next >  |  Last >>
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