Epinephrine Sun/Shade beta

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Jerry27

Big Wall climber
Yosemite, cA
Topic Author's Original Post - Jun 23, 2014 - 11:16am PT
Looked at the forecast for Red Rock this week, seems to be in the mid to high 80's in black velvet. Anyone know the best sun/shade strategy for this route this time of year? Yes I am going to die

Thanks,

Jerry
W.L.

climber
Edge of the Electric Ocean Beneath Red Rock
Jun 23, 2014 - 11:46am PT
Yo!

Did the route early in June last year (trip report here) and it was great in the shade. The chimney pitches all receive morning shade and you want to be sure to time however long you think that will take you properly, as the upper face pitches go into the shade at 1:30 this time of year. Bring a lot of water, we brought 2 gallons (!!!) and it was barely enough for us. For reference, it was over 105 in Las Vegas that day and 95 at the Red Rock visitor's center.

The Velvet Wall in the summertime is a great place for half day adventures or for a full day on Epi. Enjoy your run up it and post a TR!
Jerry27

Big Wall climber
Yosemite, cA
Topic Author's Reply - Jun 23, 2014 - 12:28pm PT
Thanks dude, I met you at J-tree a few months ago I think. At the old woman on DC.
W.L.

climber
Edge of the Electric Ocean Beneath Red Rock
Jun 23, 2014 - 12:37pm PT
Were you one of the guys from Orange County that Travis and I were having a laugh with after climbing that thing? Have a blast on the route dude!
Rollover

climber
Gross Vegas
Jun 23, 2014 - 12:54pm PT
Climbed it 6/26/12 and the top of the tower/chimneys plus all the climbing thereafter went into the shade a little before 1pm IIRC.
Turns 105 temps in Vegas into 80 temps up high in the canyon but don't tell anyone.

Shade is your friend..

Time the upper pitches accordingly.

Weston (as usual) is correct as the lower chimneys face northwest and receive no sun.
The first pitch caught a little morning sun, but goes by in a flash.

Just remember timing is critical.
More time in the sun = more water.
Jerry27

Big Wall climber
Yosemite, cA
Topic Author's Reply - Jun 23, 2014 - 01:06pm PT
WL- Yep that was us. You are a pretty funny guy. If you ever want to come and sample some socal granite at Tahquitz/Suicide let me know.
W.L.

climber
Edge of the Electric Ocean Beneath Red Rock
Jun 23, 2014 - 01:53pm PT
Rad! You guys will cruise, enjoy it...one of the finest rock climbs I have done.

I should be in Tuolumne this weekend, but next time you guys are coming up let me know and we'll grab some beers and have a laugh or climb some rock. Been meaning to get out and sample Tahquitz, hoping to make a trip this fall but who the hell knows...so damn busy...can we get more weekends in a month, you know, without more work weeks?
Todd Gordon

Trad climber
Joshua Tree, Cal
Jun 23, 2014 - 03:34pm PT
Credit: Todd Gordon
I did the climb in sept of 93;...it was warm. The first pitches are in the shade of the corner....then it gets warm. The chimney pitches are, of course, shaddy...and after awhile, you get up high and you can hope for a breeze. You will probably not die. Bring a pack with drinks in it and you will probably be fine.. Don't screw up the descent. It shouldn't take more than an hour or two at the most.....have fun
Larry

Trad climber
Bisbee
Jun 23, 2014 - 03:57pm PT
Six or seven weeks ago, the forecast high was 80 in Vegas. We completely froze in the chimneys. There was just enough wind to make it really chilly. Later in the year seems better.
W.L.

climber
Edge of the Electric Ocean Beneath Red Rock
Jun 24, 2014 - 11:23am PT
Like Larry mentions, the forecasts here tend to be deceptive.


Just as a general Red Rock beta note, McCarran International Airport is situated at 2,180 ft. Most forecasts for Las Vegas are modeled at about that elevation. The mouth of all of the canyons are situated above 4,000 feet, with some slightly higher. That is a significant difference. You don't feel the elevation gain driving from McCarran to Red Rock really, and it even shocks non-climbing locals that we are that much higher - except that when they get to Charleston and 215 they often see that the temperature gauge is 5-10 degrees cooler.

My house is at 3,300' at the edge of town and I have been shocked how when it is 75 at my house, I am still freezing my ass off in the shade with a light breeze on route at Red Rock. The lack of humidity here definitely makes temps here feel about 10-12 degrees cooler than they really are, at least relative to Reno where I lived last.

That being said, the sun here is hot as hell...avoid it.
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