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Messages 41 - 60 of total 69 in this topic << First  |  < Previous  |  Show All  |  Next >  |  Last >>
Jaybro

Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
Jun 24, 2014 - 08:40am PT
Texture
Fwiw
I recently asked a friend of mine ( ex aquaintance of jammer's) if they textured their Wide Boyz style ow roof crack and got the following
"Yes, Behr exterior texture paint, 2 coats"
In the past I've used metolius wall paint, do they still sell that? but it seemed pretty abrasive inside a crack.....
jammer

climber
Jun 24, 2014 - 09:25am PT
^^^

Probably did a third of the work on that machine. The hobby sand in acrylic exterior flat latex blows it out of the water. It feels way more realistic, doesn't add a large and indiscernible thickness like the texture paint (hitting the right sizes on fixed cracks is specific and important), and is even less "chippy" than the texture paint, which is itself a big step up from most other paint (I bet epoxy paint is even better. It is really expensive though and I have never seen it offered in "flat"). I bet the Metolius wall paint is similar, as is the Nicrotec, though I imagine both use a satin paint instead of a flat since commercial gyms need to be cleaned from time to time and good luck really cleaning flat paint, and at least the nicrotec paint seemed like it had more "macrotexture", so it either has a thicker ratio of sand or just bigger sand grains. Your hand gets cut when it slips, so to me what is critical is a good grippy texture to prevent this slipping in the first place, and not having it so sharp that ANY little slip will immediately cut you. The flat paint with hobby sand has a sticky velcro feel from the microscopic texture in the flat paint, especially with chalk, and generally feels "just right". Also, when you make the product yourself as I am advocating, you can spend the same amount of money on materials and end up with a much higher quality paint as a base since you are spending all your money on product, and not paying someone to produce/package/sell something.
Ron Anderson

Trad climber
Relic MilkEye and grandpoobah of HBRKRNH
Jun 24, 2014 - 11:02am PT
i see splinters in yur near future.
Jthompson

Trad climber
Anacortes, wa
Jul 3, 2014 - 02:22pm PT
Try spraying some rubber auto undercoating for extra grip. Works great on my machine
DI

climber
Jul 3, 2014 - 02:33pm PT
yep, just like some else posted, I used skate board grit tape on a crack machine, and taped my hands (yes, i am a wimp) every time i used it
StahlBro

Trad climber
San Diego, CA
Jul 3, 2014 - 02:43pm PT
Get a pallet of these, cut to size and glue'um in.

bbt

Trad climber
western mass
Jul 3, 2014 - 08:54pm PT
you don't need to coat the wood, you just need to keep practicing with less than body weight until you can eventually hold full body weight. I have a crack machine with tapered cracks, sanded perfectly smooth. A little moisture on the hands (via sweat or a damp cloth) actually makes me stick better. Forget textures or trying to use real rock--the machine isn't supposed to simulate an actual rock surface, it's supposed to let you strengthen the muscles that power the jams. A smooth surface forces you to get stronger PLUS it saves wear on your skin.
Rustie

climber
Coeur d\\\\\\\'Alene
Jul 6, 2014 - 08:57am PT
Thats a lot of work, already..... the trick with adhesive paint is to stop the grains breaking out of the paint. A good remedy is to go to Home Depot and find some "concrete adhesive". This is the gunk you use on a concrete cold joint. Add some "adhesive sand" --- specially ground so it grips the adhesive, unlike rounded river sand. Add some coloring if you want. Mix it all up -- not too much sand, and goop on. If you want features, apply several coats (or shape the wood first with a chainsaw).
A light sticky rubber jamming glove allows your skin to last a bit longer --- just widen the cracks a bit.
Crank On........
bootysatva

Trad climber
Idyllwild / Joshua Tree Ca.
Jul 6, 2014 - 01:19pm PT
You could sandblast the interior and the early wood will end up deeper than the late wood.- ribbed for your pleasure!
Jaybro

Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
Jul 6, 2014 - 01:41pm PT
'Bootysatva' gets my vote for best handle I've seen in a while!
BuddhaStalin

climber
Truckee, CA
Jul 7, 2014 - 02:24pm PT
I thought our crack machine was called snowshed? ;)
Jaybro

Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
Jul 7, 2014 - 03:05pm PT
Just practice the moves, it's not powerful....
skcreidc

Social climber
SD, CA
Jul 7, 2014 - 03:37pm PT
I'm having this sudden urge for potato flautas.


clinker

Trad climber
Santa Cruz, California
Jul 7, 2014 - 03:39pm PT
Credit: is this Hawks?

Crack machine.

skcreidc

Social climber
SD, CA
Jul 7, 2014 - 03:41pm PT
OK......and there's the ugly. Got it all covered.

Scrubber

climber
Straight outta Squampton
Jul 7, 2014 - 09:25pm PT
Here's a link to one I built for a friend a couple of years ago. The texture issue was solved with cloth-backed sand paper. If you need some, I'll send you the roll for the cost of postage. There's probably still 40 feet of it left.

K

http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.php?topic_id=103476&msg=2092499#msg2092499
Jaybro

Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
Jul 8, 2014 - 10:49am PT
Cool link, I'd forgotten about that one
W.L.

climber
Edge of the Electric Ocean Beneath Red Rock
Jul 8, 2014 - 11:08am PT
Hawk, you could also use a pulley and some weight to reduce the weight you are applying to it (rig to harness). My pro trax (couldn't find my cheaper pulleys) lives in my home gym now that I have added a hangboard to the doorway pullup bar. Throw a few slings on that, keep the toothed part of the pulley open, use some old beater rope to have a kettlebell as opposing weight, and boom...my weaksauce is somewhat remedied.

Basically it allows you to gain the requisite strength without needing the requisite strength from the get-go.

Except for that I was an idiot and the stoke was too high so I did a bunch of hangs on too-small things without the counter-weight and now have a bit of soreness in one of those fingers...doh! If only I could have an IQ as high as my stoke...
skcreidc

Social climber
SD, CA
Jul 8, 2014 - 01:34pm PT
Dude. Just use your hot wife's yoga ball under your feet. work on the core AND your hand/finger strength at the same time. Just might want to have someone spot ya or rig up something for your harness for safety though. Don't want to crack the back of your dome on the concrete.
Jebus H Bomz

climber
Peavine Basecamp
Jul 8, 2014 - 01:37pm PT
The Hawk's wife has yoga balls? Gross!
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