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micronut
Trad climber
Fresno/Clovis, ca
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Jun 23, 2014 - 01:00pm PT
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Hawk don't "paint" it. Take a router or a dremmel and rout out a whole bunch of horizontal 1/8th or so inch deep lines all through the interior of the pieces. Make little "rivers" that are basically perpendicular to your "pull down" vector. Put like ten into each one, about an inch or three apart. These rugosities allow you to grab ever so slightly with the meat of the back of your hands when taped and allow for little horizontal "rails" for the fingie tips. A round drill bit gives more bite, a football shape gives less. This is easy and gives plenty of texture. Don't sand. Use will wear them down nicely. Maybe consider a dedicated set of hand jammies for quick workouts. You'll be ready for Snake Dike in no time.
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micronut
Trad climber
Fresno/Clovis, ca
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Jun 23, 2014 - 01:31pm PT
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Jammer, rough paint isn't bad, it just kinda wears smooth over time or ends up being too gritty and rough, depending on the mix. Maybe a combo of a fine grit paint on a routered crack like I mentioned would be a good combo.
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micronut
Trad climber
Fresno/Clovis, ca
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Jun 23, 2014 - 03:10pm PT
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Nice
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Steve Silva
Trad climber
LA
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Jun 23, 2014 - 04:58pm PT
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Here is my work in progress. 6ft tall, 6 inches deep, adjustable width from tips to 7 inches. The boards flex too much so that will be the next thing to fix.
I made textured panels using polyurethane for the inside of the crack so it has the same texture as climbing holds. Without gloves or tape it rips your hands apart. I'm going to try something different.
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westhegimp
Social climber
granada hills
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Jun 23, 2014 - 07:03pm PT
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I predict, that with no feet, even the most secure size(perfect hands) will be too difficult. Put two pulleys and take some weight off!
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Todd Eastman
climber
Bellingham, WA
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Jun 23, 2014 - 08:42pm PT
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Make some loops of surgical tubing, fix at the top, and put your foot in them for added assistance until yer burl gets going...
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Dante
Boulder climber
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Jun 23, 2014 - 11:48pm PT
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These are awesome :) I need to work on my handyman skills.
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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Jun 24, 2014 - 08:40am PT
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Texture
Fwiw
I recently asked a friend of mine ( ex aquaintance of jammer's) if they textured their Wide Boyz style ow roof crack and got the following
"Yes, Behr exterior texture paint, 2 coats"
In the past I've used metolius wall paint, do they still sell that? but it seemed pretty abrasive inside a crack.....
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Jthompson
Trad climber
Anacortes, wa
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Try spraying some rubber auto undercoating for extra grip. Works great on my machine
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DI
climber
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yep, just like some else posted, I used skate board grit tape on a crack machine, and taped my hands (yes, i am a wimp) every time i used it
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StahlBro
Trad climber
San Diego, CA
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Get a pallet of these, cut to size and glue'um in.
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bbt
Trad climber
western mass
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you don't need to coat the wood, you just need to keep practicing with less than body weight until you can eventually hold full body weight. I have a crack machine with tapered cracks, sanded perfectly smooth. A little moisture on the hands (via sweat or a damp cloth) actually makes me stick better. Forget textures or trying to use real rock--the machine isn't supposed to simulate an actual rock surface, it's supposed to let you strengthen the muscles that power the jams. A smooth surface forces you to get stronger PLUS it saves wear on your skin.
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Rustie
climber
Coeur d\\\\\\\'Alene
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Thats a lot of work, already..... the trick with adhesive paint is to stop the grains breaking out of the paint. A good remedy is to go to Home Depot and find some "concrete adhesive". This is the gunk you use on a concrete cold joint. Add some "adhesive sand" --- specially ground so it grips the adhesive, unlike rounded river sand. Add some coloring if you want. Mix it all up -- not too much sand, and goop on. If you want features, apply several coats (or shape the wood first with a chainsaw).
A light sticky rubber jamming glove allows your skin to last a bit longer --- just widen the cracks a bit.
Crank On........
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bootysatva
Trad climber
Idyllwild / Joshua Tree Ca.
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You could sandblast the interior and the early wood will end up deeper than the late wood.- ribbed for your pleasure!
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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'Bootysatva' gets my vote for best handle I've seen in a while!
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BuddhaStalin
climber
Truckee, CA
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I thought our crack machine was called snowshed? ;)
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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Just practice the moves, it's not powerful....
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skcreidc
Social climber
SD, CA
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I'm having this sudden urge for potato flautas.
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clinker
Trad climber
Santa Cruz, California
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Crack machine.
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skcreidc
Social climber
SD, CA
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OK......and there's the ugly. Got it all covered.
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