Climbing in storm...alpine in full flourish....

Search
Go

Discussion Topic

Return to Forum List
Post a Reply
Messages 1 - 45 of total 45 in this topic
donini

Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
Topic Author's Original Post - Jun 6, 2014 - 12:08pm PT
We've all done it. Here are some of mine...post yours! Or just enjoy a climbing thread.
Patagonia
Patagonia
Credit: donini
Patagonia
Patagonia
Credit: donini
Patagonia
Patagonia
Credit: donini
Patagonia
Patagonia
Credit: donini
Alaska
Alaska
Credit: donini
Alaska
Alaska
Credit: donini
Alaska
Alaska
Credit: donini
Alaska
Alaska
Credit: donini
Karakorum
Karakorum
Credit: donini
Karakorum
Karakorum
Credit: donini
Karakorum
Karakorum
Credit: donini
Patagonia
Patagonia
Credit: donini
Patagonia
Patagonia
Credit: donini
Patagonia
Patagonia
Credit: donini
JEleazarian

Trad climber
Fresno CA
Jun 6, 2014 - 12:39pm PT
The only times I've climbed in a storm, we've been too scared to stop and take a picture, so I'll do the next best thing and bump. Thanks for starting this thread and for your pics, Jim.

John
FRUMY

Trad climber
Bishop,CA
Jun 6, 2014 - 12:59pm PT
Great post!

More pictures pretty please.
GDavis

Social climber
SOL CAL
Jun 6, 2014 - 12:59pm PT
Hey Bro some of us live in California!
BASE104

Social climber
An Oil Field
Jun 6, 2014 - 01:04pm PT
I don't have any pics of the actual storms. I was in a huge one with Walt Shipley in Chamonix one night. I saw St. Elmo's fire. No sh#t.

Here is waking up on El Cap after a rainy night:

Credit: BASE104

Credit: BASE104

Here is the aftermath of a 3 day (around July 1st) storm on the ANWR coastal plain. That little bivy tent got pretty damn boring after three days. Solo adventures can get pretty pathetic.

Credit: BASE104

PAUL SOUZA

Trad climber
Central Valley, CA
Jun 6, 2014 - 01:09pm PT
Burrrrrr....
johntp

Trad climber
socal
Jun 6, 2014 - 01:10pm PT
The only times I've climbed in a storm, we've been too scared to stop and take a picture, so I'll do the next best thing and bump.

ditto. and bump for a BST
BASE104

Social climber
An Oil Field
Jun 6, 2014 - 01:13pm PT
You ought to hear the story of when I had to swim the Hula Hula river naked, with my pack in a little raft. It was over 70 degrees north latitude and a cold, windy day to boot.

I set some kind of record for putting on dry clothes, getting into my bag and tent and shivering like an earthquake for four hours. THAT was my coldest experience. Worse than anything I felt in miserable mountain bivies.

Ya gotta do it sometimes.
RP3

Big Wall climber
Sonora
Jun 6, 2014 - 01:22pm PT
Fantastic pics and a great topic, Jim. Unfortunately I have nothing to contribute...
BASE104

Social climber
An Oil Field
Jun 6, 2014 - 01:27pm PT
Russ the Fish got caught in some wicked storm one pitch from the top of Native Son. He and Erik Erikson both took final pictures of each other so that John Dill would have something to look at after they recovered their bodies. I think Mugs or somebody finally lowered a rope to them. There was a big rescue on for climbers on other routes. You know. That fall storm that catches everyone by surprise most years.

Now that is some quick thinking.

I think he has them posted on the Fish Products website. That dude is so funny.
Marlow

Sport climber
OSLO
Jun 6, 2014 - 01:32pm PT
Great thread.

Where's Regan. He's posted a few photos where it was "a little bit o' the damp".
moosedrool

climber
lost, far away from Poland
Jun 6, 2014 - 01:37pm PT
That's the worst climbing conditions I've ever experienced.

Clouds, and I had to wear long sleeves. It was like 60F!

Seriously.

Credit: moosedrool

Thanks Jim for the photos. Most excellent.

Andrzej
Wayno

Big Wall climber
Seattle, WA
Jun 6, 2014 - 03:04pm PT
Someone else has the pictures or I would post them.
Reilly

Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
Jun 6, 2014 - 03:14pm PT
Not that many of us can compete with Jim in any alpine category, let alone
'climbing in storm', really, when the rime hit the fan the camera stayed
in the pack, if it was even along. But in a feeble attempt at salvaging a
smidgeon of credibility I will will say that in Scotland you go out in any
weather unless the wind prevents you from opening the pub door...

hobo_dan

Social climber
Minnesota
Jun 6, 2014 - 03:28pm PT
Thanks for sharing Jim
matty

Trad climber
under the sea
Jun 6, 2014 - 03:33pm PT
Credit: matty

Too much storm to climb
Sierra Ledge Rat

Mountain climber
Old and Broken Down in Appalachia
Jun 6, 2014 - 03:45pm PT
Unhappy summit shot
Summit of Mt. Dana after the first ascent of the North Rib, May 1982
Summit of Mt. Dana after the first ascent of the North Rib, May 1982
Credit: Sierra Ledge Rat

wilbeer

Mountain climber
honeoye falls,ny.greeneck alleghenys
Jun 6, 2014 - 03:52pm PT
Those are some great photos up there.
dix mt. dacks
dix mt. dacks
Credit: wilbeer
B13
B13
Credit: wilbeer
dix mt,adk climb 10/11
dix mt,adk climb 10/11
Credit: wilbeer

My coldest climb,the headwall of Dix Mountain,Adirondacks.

Snow is one thing ,34 degree rain ,is another.
Credit: wilbeer
I do not have any pictures of climbing that,I was in peril....lol.

Stewart Johnson

climber
lake forest
Jun 6, 2014 - 03:53pm PT
Exellent
SteveW

Trad climber
The state of confusion
Jun 6, 2014 - 03:58pm PT

I always remember the Patagonia ad with Charlie Fowler climbing
Hallet Peak in 'full conditions!'

Wish I could find a copy of it somewhere. . . Mr. Grossman????
ionlyski

Trad climber
Kalispell, Montana
Jun 6, 2014 - 04:38pm PT
Oh yeah, we've all done it. RIGHT.
Notice how all the photos after Jim's are like a sunny day on the beach. You're the man Jim, long live! I like the last one of you best in the cave. Had to be pretty recent. Do you even age at all, ever?

I'm with you Reilly. When it goes to whiteout my camera hides but it's probably back in the car anyway cuz I didn't want to carry an extra ounce.


Arne
RyanD

climber
Squamish
Jun 6, 2014 - 05:14pm PT
Excellent stuff.


Full, winter conditions I usually prefer to find myself on a chairlift :-)
ms55401

Trad climber
minneapolis, mn
Jun 6, 2014 - 05:19pm PT
the proposition hinted-at but not explicitly stated is that climbing in precipitation where the temp is "only" around 31-35 degrees is the worst.
ontheedgeandscaredtodeath

Social climber
SLO, Ca
Jun 6, 2014 - 05:20pm PT
Credit: ontheedgeandscaredtodeath

Credit: ontheedgeandscaredtodeath

Credit: ontheedgeandscaredtodeath
mouse from merced

Trad climber
The finger of fate, my friends, is fickle.
Jun 6, 2014 - 05:44pm PT
MISTER Donini, those are tremendous photos, illustrating bravado and derring-do and True Grit.

As GDavis states, Californians who haven't the money or time to travel to colder climes to climb are at the mercy of the weather, just as are the lucky ones, like yourself, who may find themselves in extremis in those icy places.

I am satisfied with my relatively few successes on mountains here. They impressed ME, my partners, and a few of my friends. That's all that matters, truly. Although I abhor cold, I know others have greater limits of endurance for it.

We all have different levels of ambition in our pursuit of climbing. We all have levels of discomfort, too.

Good on you for doing what you've done and for keeping it going so long.

And for sharing your experience.

Big Mike

Trad climber
BC
Jun 6, 2014 - 06:23pm PT
Angel's Crest: an early season full conditions freeclimb. Rock hardware only... Lol

Credit: Fish Boy


Credit: Fish Boy













Closest i've come to the definition of "full conditions". Lol
crankster

Trad climber
Jun 6, 2014 - 06:40pm PT
That's some hard man stuff, donini.
moosedrool

climber
lost, far away from Poland
Jun 6, 2014 - 06:45pm PT
Right on, Mike!

I was once on a kayaking trip, and on day two it starting snowing on and off for a couple of days. Does it count?

Mooster

climbski2

Mountain climber
Anchorage AK, Reno NV
Jun 6, 2014 - 08:43pm PT
Don't have a lot of storm pics for some reason lol.

A few though nothing half as cool as Donini's. Not really alpinism either.

Pioneer peak near Anchorage. Almost qualifies as Alpinism as we went light and expected 15 feet of 4th class over a long 45 deg chute. But Turned around shortly after this picture.



Somewhere on the Kahiltna.



Almost died this day a hour or so later after this pic due to the storm windloading the slope. West Butt Fixed lines



Same storm a couple days later


Fritz

Trad climber
Choss Creek, ID
Jun 6, 2014 - 09:17pm PT
OK! I'm impressed with the Donini storm photos, and especially the rhime ice eyebrows shot,------but I knew I had some good alpine storm photos stashed in my computer.

NOT!

I also did not break out the camera in those conditions, not that I encountered them often.

Bruce Kay

Gym climber
BC
Jun 6, 2014 - 09:36pm PT
Full, winter conditions I usually prefer to find myself on a chairlift :-)

Ryan and big mike - I can't believe you guys haven't sampled the full conditions of Husume buttress yet! You actually can't really call yourself a climber without it you know, if you possess a WB pass and spend half your life up there.. no excuses next year. It is totally unique. Kinda a cross between the Eiger and Ben Nevis with the added benefit of a down hill approach and a down hill descent finishing at Blacks Pub. Whats not to like?

All you need is a smoke bluff rack, maybe a few pins, no screws..... but forget the chalk bag and twinkly shoes Mike. I'll lend you some spikes if you like.
Ed Hartouni

Trad climber
Livermore, CA
Jun 6, 2014 - 09:36pm PT

Mt. Saskacthawan


Mt. Athabasca's summit


white out on the Columbia Ice Fields


Vedauwoo, terrible I say!

Ed Hartouni

Trad climber
Livermore, CA
Jun 6, 2014 - 10:30pm PT

heinous conditions! look at that slab!
steveA

Trad climber
Wolfeboro, NH
Jun 7, 2014 - 04:22am PT
Jim,

Great photo's. In the past, when the sh---it hit the fan, I was always too busy to even think about pulling a camera out.
Grippa

Trad climber
Salt Lake City, UT
Jun 7, 2014 - 06:03am PT
Damn Ed! a 2-4ft base in C4?!
Scott Patterson

Mountain climber
Craig
Jun 7, 2014 - 06:33am PT
Credit: Scott Patterson

Credit: Scott Patterson

Credit: Scott Patterson
tradmanclimbs

Ice climber
Pomfert VT
Jun 8, 2014 - 02:29am PT
camera seems to stay in the pack in a storm. i have posted this shot of Eric before. I led the 1st 2 pitches of Fafnir in heavy snow. i got nailed by several of these heavy spindrifton the steep thin runllel leading up to the belay ledge under the final crux pitch. I chickened out of the cruxand we rapped to the base to get our packs. I then led the 1st pitch of the Dike, Eric started the 2nd pitch(this photo) at dusk. I followed in the dark and heavy snow. I led the last pitch in total darkness and a whiteout. good fun.
Eric marshal P2 Black Dike Cannon NH
Eric marshal P2 Black Dike Cannon NH
Credit: tradmanclimbs
tradmanclimbs

Ice climber
Pomfert VT
Jun 8, 2014 - 02:34am PT
conditions look reasonably full on this trip up the Dike
Nick Goldsmith P2 Black Dike 12-26-11 <br/>
Photo by Isa Oehry
Nick Goldsmith P2 Black Dike 12-26-11
Photo by Isa Oehry
Credit: tradmanclimbs
Nick Cradock

Trad climber
NZ
Jun 8, 2014 - 02:55pm PT
Jim, Good to see you firmly hanging on Maestri's bolts in your first pic...ha,ha
Chugach

Trad climber
Vermont
Jun 8, 2014 - 05:28pm PT
Climb2Ski - that was a fun day on Pioneer. A nice grauple storm and an excellent ski down.
climbski2

Mountain climber
Anchorage AK, Reno NV
Jun 8, 2014 - 05:32pm PT
good times Sandman :) I think that was the trip I did a sweet self arrest on the descent too.
Chugach

Trad climber
Vermont
Jun 8, 2014 - 05:34pm PT
Not an action shot but a solid ass whooping nonetheless. Mt. Marcus Baker.

8 days.  8 F*king days in that hole.
8 days. 8 F*king days in that hole.
Credit: Chugach

Spent the first 39 hours just shoveling. Eventually got a LOT of sleep...
Spent the first 39 hours just shoveling. Eventually got a LOT of sleep over the next 7 days.
Credit: Chugach
climbski2

Mountain climber
Anchorage AK, Reno NV
Jun 8, 2014 - 05:35pm PT
Was Matt or Todd on that one? Or were you solo?
Chugach

Trad climber
Vermont
Jun 8, 2014 - 05:38pm PT
Just me an Alex, our 1st wedding anniversary.
climbski2

Mountain climber
Anchorage AK, Reno NV
Jun 8, 2014 - 05:40pm PT
Hardcorp anniversary! Nice
Messages 1 - 45 of total 45 in this topic
Return to Forum List
Post a Reply
 
Our Guidebooks
Check 'em out!
SuperTopo Guidebooks


Try a free sample topo!

 
SuperTopo on the Web

Review Categories
Recent Trip Report and Articles
Recent Route Beta
Recent Gear Reviews