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| Messages 1 - 19 of total 19 in this topic |
healyje
Trad climber
Portland, Oregon
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Topic Author's Original Post - Jun 4, 2014 - 01:47am PT
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Would really like to have a backup to the one I have as it's looking a little worse for the wear.
It would be going to an appreciative home if you're willing to part with one...thanks.
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healyje
Trad climber
Portland, Oregon
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 5, 2014 - 10:10pm PT
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Bump
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mcreel
climber
Barcelona
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I had a red one, a long time ago, by any chances would that be a #4? I don't think I ever placed it. I haven't seen it in a long time. I'll look in the collection of old stuff and see if I still have it.
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healyje
Trad climber
Portland, Oregon
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 6, 2014 - 02:46am PT
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Appreciate it...
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Morgan
Trad climber
East Coast
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I think the Red is a #2. Blue #1being the smallest. I wonder how the size of a #4 would compare to a Silver C3 Camalot. Is the #4 Ballnutz rated a lot stronger?
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cultureshock
Trad climber
Mountain View
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Is this the one you are looking for?
would be happy to sell it to you. Might be the #5 not the #4...
 Luke
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Michelle
Social climber
1187 Hunterwasser
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Only have a #2
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Toker Villain
Big Wall climber
Toquerville, Utah
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Not sure I still have one but isn't the term ballnut a bit redundant?
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
Nothing creative to say
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selling a rack of the new ones if anyone cares to make an offer.
sorry for thread drift
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healyje
Trad climber
Portland, Oregon
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 7, 2014 - 01:21am PT
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Luke, is that a Lowe-Byrne unit or a Camp/Trango...? Not sure I've ever seen an anodized L-B unit before.
Morgan: I think the Red is a #2. Blue #1being the smallest. I wonder how the size of a #4 would compare to a Silver C3 Camalot. Is the #4 Ballnutz rated a lot stronger? I have a few sets of #1-3, but only the one #4 and the color of the plastic tubing is different sometimes on the same sizes. Red is typically #2, but not always...
I'd take the Ballnut over a C3 everytime, but then I'm peculiar that way.
Malcolm: They are currently being made in Korea and are distributed by both CAMP and Trango. The units are identical. You can get them online at http://www.neptunemountaineering/camp-ballnuts.
Michelle, thanks for looking.
Ron, I always thought so, but hey, can pretty much go with whatever
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nutstory
climber
Ajaccio, Corsica, France
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maldaly
Trad climber
Boulder, CO
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I was the developer of all the models of the Ball nuts, starting out with the original Lowe/Byrne version that was made in the USA.
The easy way to tell the original ones is by the lead solder on the face of the ball. That is how Steve Byrne, the designer, envisioned them and that was how the first round was made. They were sold in that form for about a year. They were a huge hassle to make and the local machine shop that did the manufacturing, hated making them.
That summer while attending ISPO I was approached by a Korean dude named Young Chu (Currently of Mad Rock fame) who introduced himself and said that they could make them them very fast and very cheap. I said go for it, and in a few weeks, I had the best samples I had ever seen, including the change to the copper on the face of the ball. We carried v.2 of the Lowe/Byrne LoweBalls until I left Lowe Alpine in 1991 to start Trango.
Lowe Alpine decided to quit the hardware business, stopped paying any royalties to Steve Byrne and CAMP took over the distribution of the product. And Steve abandoned the patent.
Sometime in the mid-'90s, under pressure from the manufacturer in Korea we (Trango) started to carry them, but only after I had called Steve Byrne and asked him if we could pay him a royalty for our sales of the devices. He said no, he had abandoned the patent and didn't deserve the royalty, but I think I sent him a check for $500 anyway.
So, by the mid-90's, both CAMP and Trango were distributing the identical product. At the time, CAMP wasn't much of a factor in the US climbing market so everyone was happy, and 2 new, bigger sizes were added to the line.
A lot of people ask why, if the products are the same, from the same manufacturer, the #1s had different strength rating. All I know is what I know and I know that I never, ever tested a #1 BallNutz that failed ABOVE 5kN. SO I rated them at 4kN. It doesn't look like anything has changed about the design. Maybe they are using a magic brazing rod?
Whatever, climb safe,
Mal
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nutstory
climber
Ajaccio, Corsica, France
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Thank you very much for the story Malcolm! And what about the “Double Ball”? Could you tell us a little more about it? This treasure would be an awesome addition to the Nuts Museum…
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healyje
Trad climber
Portland, Oregon
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 17, 2014 - 09:49pm PT
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Malcolm,
Hey, sorry if I got the details of the timeline/story wrong.
The main issues I have with the C/T units are:
a) Paddle width/length ratio is off compared to the L/B units which are longer and narrower and so there is less room for ball travel in the paddle groove.
b) The corners on the C/T units are 'squared off' compared to the L/B units which have much more rounded corners.
c) Handle-to-end-of-paddle, the C/T units are shorter than the L/B units (//at least my four sets of the L/B units//)
At least that's what I recall bugging me about them when I emailed you and Seth back whenever that more than a couple of years ago.
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maldaly
Trad climber
Boulder, CO
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Jun 17, 2014 - 10:16pm PT
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Stephane, The double ball was made by one of the machinists who worked at Collins Mfg, the manufacturer of the original Lowe/Byrne Ball nut. They work pretty well and are placeable, although not very stable, in a 35° flare! I think I actually have one or two around that I'd be willing to send you.
Mal
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tithaf
Trad climber
Sierra Madre, CA
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Jun 17, 2014 - 10:39pm PT
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Way back, I took a 25 footer off of Hagakure at Lumpy Ridge - #1 Loweball held me - rock solid. Thanks Malcolm!
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healyje
Trad climber
Portland, Oregon
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 22, 2014 - 11:53pm PT
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Toker: Not sure I still have one but isn't the term ballnut a bit redundant? Ha! Have you used them down your way much?
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nutstory
climber
Ajaccio, Corsica, France
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Sep 20, 2014 - 07:45am PT
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Here I would like to express my gratitude to Malcolm Daly who generously enhanced the collection with two samples of the rare Double Ball.
Malcolm recalls: These Double Ball were made by one of the machinists who worked at Collins Mfg, the manufacturer of the original Lowe/Byrne Ball Nut. They work pretty well and are placeable, although not very stable, in a 35° flare!
Edit: Thank you healyje for this thread...
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