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GDavis
Social climber
SOL CAL
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Topic Author's Original Post - May 23, 2014 - 05:06pm PT
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A little bird told me the bolt that replaced the piton on the second pitch (2nd bolt) ~15 years ago has been pulled and there's no pro for that move.
Just FYI if you want to get on it, might be a ledge fall from ~10-15 feet up.
http://www.mountainproject.com/v/sundance/105788132
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GDavis
Social climber
SOL CAL
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Topic Author's Reply - May 23, 2014 - 07:38pm PT
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Maybe it fell out?
This seems most likely.
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tradmanclimbs
Ice climber
Pomfert VT
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May 24, 2014 - 06:40am PT
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dude never brushed out the hole... and it's right next to a crack....
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Mark Force
Trad climber
Cave Creek, AZ
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May 24, 2014 - 10:20am PT
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Who's the a$&hole who drilled that bolt right next to a perfect crack? Somebody needs to be slapped.
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GDavis
Social climber
SOL CAL
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Topic Author's Reply - May 24, 2014 - 11:39am PT
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Who's the a$&hole who drilled that bolt right next to a perfect crack? Somebody needs to be slapped.
The bolt replaced a pin in a seam, and not a very good one, years ago. I think it was Clark? It's not a perfect crack, you should probably know what you are talking about before spewing ;) There are many routes in Idyllwild that have had old pins replaced by bolts, i.e. the crux of Sword of Damoclese. If that doesn't sit right and you'd rather pin after pin be replaced until there is a scar, you don't understand clean climbing... some routes like etude opened up enough for gear but the other routes had no other protection and see high traffic.
Just my opinions, however, and I won't be adding or removing fixed protection any time in the future. Not my thing. I like to at least be updated and I'll happily climb the route either way :)
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WillieW
Trad climber
Hemet ca
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May 25, 2014 - 05:52pm PT
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I climbed the route about a month ago and the bolt was there but the hanger was gone, so pretty sure it didn't fall out. More likely some proud ass took it upon them selves to remove the hanger that been there for 10 years.
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apogee
climber
Technically expert, safe belayer, can lead if easy
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May 25, 2014 - 09:47pm PT
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Maybe it needs a 'Surprise' bolt.
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WillieW
Trad climber
Hemet ca
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May 26, 2014 - 01:22pm PT
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X15x15 Im heading up to north to do some work on thursday for about a week, then I'm off to Tuolumne till August. Shoot me an email if you make it to Tuolumne this summer 19wmw88 at gmail dot com.
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Damn this looks high
Trad climber
Temecula, CA
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I just hate the fact that some as#@&%e gets to appoint himself arbiter of what is acceptable in climbing.
ClIMBING IS NOT A GAME. It's life and death.
When you chop a bolt that other climbers expect to be there--either because it's on the topo or because it's been there for a long time--you endanger their lives. And for what? Your f*#ked up 'ethics'?
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Bullwinkle
Boulder climber
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That pin wasn't there for many years, someone took it upon themselves to add fixed pro to an existing Climb. The fact that the pin/bolt is gone means you'll need to Climb Sun Dance as intended by the Climbers that put the Route up. . . df
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ruppell
climber
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ClIMBING IS NOT A GAME. It's life and death.
LOL. What? Climbing is a game. Both physical and mental. If you deck and die, you loose. That's the reason every book about climbing, every piece of gear sold, has these words:
CLIMBING IS AN INHERENTLY DANGEROUS SPORT.
If some climb has a bolt chopped, removed nicely by rockfall , or damaged from years of neglect, it's up to you to decide to push on or puss out. How hard is that to understand? It's up to you the climber. If you die it's on you. If you live it's on you. Most of us live. Is that because of big balls or good judgement? If you don't know I'd bet you have neither.
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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Why climb it, it's a slab.....life is short, better things to do. Did it in the 70's...once is enough.
edit: It was kind of fun though.
edit 2: I only do slabs once because they serve up too much fright for the amount of exercise they deliver.
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GDavis
Social climber
SOL CAL
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 6, 2014 - 12:15pm PT
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Why climb it, it's a slab.....life is short, better things to do.
Donini wins the thread
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scuffy b
climber
heading slowly NNW
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The crack in the video is not the crack on Sundance.
When someone talks about the crack needing a bolt, they are not talking
about the one in the video.
If you're disillusioned about the bolt in the video, you're not alone.
That thing looks quite gear-friendly.
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Johannsolo
climber
Soul Cal
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The moves getting past that section are very easy, almost trivial. Especially compared to the moves off the belay. I did not take the hanger but know who did. Sack it up weenies. If your not up for the moves, back off. Get on Mickey Mantle for some heads up old school runouts. Suicide is not a f'ing gym. Anyone want to climb this weekend? Bring your balls and stiffest edging boots.
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
Nothing creative to say
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bolting cracks has taken on some recent momentum (and I'm not talking about replacing iron with a steel).
It's not happening in just one area. It's happening in well thought out ways in some instance e.g. where the rock quality is questionable and or when it is just small brass pieces, or like JCA's WWS where there probably are never that many big cams in any one state at a given time (tho maybe IC in the Spring is an exception).
However, there are a number of regions where the protection bolts are being placed purely out of convenience. Of course, what does one route matter, right? But it's not just one route anymore.
Mind the rare case where the FA'ist bolted from stance while skeert his shorts, and 'blindered' his way without seeing a protectable crack, pod or hole. It happens.
The question is put: at what point is a small number of bolted cracks ok, and when is a high number bolted cracks not ok?
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Fat Dad
Trad climber
Los Angeles, CA
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Johannsolo is right. Unfortunately it's the weenies who seem to be calling the shots these days.
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apogee
climber
Technically expert, safe belayer, can lead if easy
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"wow that was dramatic."
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