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JEleazarian
Trad climber
Fresno CA
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May 12, 2014 - 05:51pm PT
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YOSAR shows, yet again, why we hold them in such high esteem.
John
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Seamstress
Trad climber
Yacolt, WA
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May 12, 2014 - 07:41pm PT
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Applause
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neebee
Social climber
calif/texas
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May 12, 2014 - 08:44pm PT
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hey there say, boo dawg... thanks for sharing... good to know that nothing worse happened...
thank you to all those involved...
sending out appreciation, thanks, and prayer for safe-and-successful rescue, when (though hoping none will be needed)such needs arise...
prayers and get well to the injured...
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k-man
Gym climber
SCruz
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May 12, 2014 - 08:54pm PT
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I know it's a drag to break your foot, but does anybody else think it was this guy's lucky day?
man, freeing the Salathe, I wish I was there...
Yeah teamwork.
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shaw82
Trad climber
australia
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May 15, 2014 - 02:14pm PT
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I thought i would clear things up about what actually happened on El Cap and also the reason why the finger was used.
I was in the party that got rescued from heart ledges.
Firstly Scott(person injured) and I were climbing Muir and then linking it into the shield when the incident occurred around the heart/mammoth ledges area.
We were in the process of hauling our bags from heart to mammoth when we let a climbing party of two pass us. They were down climbing from mammoth to heart ledges to continue up Salathe. The leader made it down to the belay and before the seconder cleaned the pitch Scott quickly abseiled down to connect the second bag for hauling.
We managed to haul the bag a small distance before the seconder came down but it managed to roll into a position that would be annoying to the belayer. As Scott connected his jumars to the rope to swing out and pull the pig back in the seconder who was down climbing above pulled a large person size block off the cliff.
The climber took a fall but was caught by belayer.
Scott who was on the rope took the impact of the rock on the knees down. He flipped up side down and managed to crawl back up the heart ledges.
From there I abseiled down and started the process of calling for assistance as the injuries sustained look severe. Major damage to feet and legs.
Yosar arrived quickly and proceeded to lower him down from heart.
Scott just go discharged from hospital where we are in the process of getting back to Australia- he has 15 fractures/breaks in both legs but it looks like he will make a good recovery. the speedy work of Yosar prevented the injuries being a lot worse.
Big thanks to:
The rescue team who was smooth and efficient and funny to listen to. Scott and I are so appreciative of the work they did during the rescue and also bringing all bags/ropes and gear back to the car park. Next time we are over this way we will organize beers for sure. Especially the guys that dragged 1200 feet of rope up.
National Parks- all the follow up was handled really well.
Doc/nurses at the hospital- especially when a random Aussie comes in with no id/passport and seriously smashed up legs.
Peter- a guy climbing nearby who helped retrieve bags from mammoth to Heart. Thanks for the drugs and offer of herbs.
Two guys that also helped peter with the bags, awesome work guys.
End thanks
The climber who pulled the block off. Appreciated the use of your phone to call 911 but that is where it ends. At no stage did you ask how Scott was doing. As soon as you had the option to bail you took it. It was only from the kindness of other people in the area to come and help out that the whole process was made easier and safer. Even on the ground after the event happened you were only worried about yourself. A note for the future mate, as the rescue is still going it is not a good idea to start looking for climbing partners to go back up there, all i could here was you wanting to get your gear back. Priorities mate. Your concern should be at least passing a message along to the injured party hoping they make a good recovery.
Now the finger- Scott at the time was not in the best shape and when he saw some random people(and apparently there was quiet a few people) taking photos he moved one of the only muscles he could to show his annoyance. It was directed and the guy taking photos. Hopefully in the future the guide who took the hphot decides not to take photos when people are quite banged up.
Big thanks again for all involved in helping out. Owe you all big time.
Cheers
Tim
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tonesfrommars
Trad climber
California
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May 15, 2014 - 02:53pm PT
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Thanks for detailed report shaw82! Glad everyone involved made it out ok. Wishing Scott a speedy and full recovery.
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HighTraverse
Trad climber
Bay Area
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May 15, 2014 - 02:56pm PT
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From Joel
Deep experiences take me time to process Ain't that the truth.
Good luck to Scott's recovery.
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climbski2
Mountain climber
Anchorage AK, Reno NV
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May 15, 2014 - 03:23pm PT
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These experiences are some of the most intense emotional things that happen in life. So intense that the mere act of observation is inevitably skewed sometimes severely.
It can be amazing that even basic details can be remembered in complete honesty totally differently than someone else who was right there next to you. Strong emotions rewire your brain and even cause it to see and interpret the visual signals completely differently than they might under calm situations. Your mind will see what fits it's emotion.. fear, anger frustration or guilt (deserved or not).
Those who have been there and later talked with each other can be shocked or fall into arguments over details recalled differently but with apparent certainty. The key here is everyone managed to react in ways that insured the survival of all involved. That does not always happen.
and from time to time in these situations we all can fail to live up to standards we never imagined we could fail..and sometimes we perform far beyond what we thought we could.
May all involved heal and learn in every way possible. Yes the "finger" is a very understandable reaction.. :)
I for one am so glad that no one died. And again nothing but the highest respect for YOSAR!
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Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
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May 15, 2014 - 03:25pm PT
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Thanks for sharing 2 perspectives on this serious and scary accident.
One thing Tim may have missed is that when Dave and Joel descended, this allowed them to check that the fixed lines had not been damaged by the rockfall, so that YOSAR could ascend.
In Joel's account, he felt there was nothing he could have done to prevent the accident. But I feel there is always potential to check if holds are loose. Dave made it past that spot without the block coming off.
On granite, especially on El Cap, loose rock can really take people by surprise because much of it is so solid.
It's very uncomfortable/disturbing when something we do (by accident) negatively affects other people (our partner, other climbers, bystanders, parents/loved ones). Usually we think "it's me vs. the rock", but sometimes other people are at risk.
It's a rough one. I hope Scott heals up OK (it will take awhile),
and that Joel finds / creates some positives to balance somewhat the negatives that happened (it will also take time).
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coolrockclimberguy69
climber
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May 16, 2014 - 03:25am PT
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The fat-tire litter is pretty rad. Are these common in SAR? I've never seen one before.
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WBraun
climber
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May 16, 2014 - 10:28am PT
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YOSAR has used the fat tire litter wheel for 40 years now as SOP for litter carry outs.
Nothing new here at all .....
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mouse from merced
Trad climber
The finger of fate, my friends, is fickle.
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May 16, 2014 - 10:42am PT
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No, BooDawg, no PM showing.
Boy, I gotta say those fat tire litters are the ultimate low-rider: Soooo comfy and reassuring when yur sh!t's flocked up.
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joelunema
Sport climber
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May 16, 2014 - 11:38am PT
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Thought I'd post a couple clarifications here.
I did what I could to participate in Scott's rescue and facilitate YOSAR's work. I followed YOSAR's requests at all times, which included rapping the fixed ropes to check their condition.
While my injuries are quite minor, I was not looking for climbing partners at any point during the rescue, and I am not going to be climbing for a bit. After Scott was in the ambulance, I did exchange numbers with a YOSAR member in hopes that he or one of his friends could possibly help get our gear down.
I'm glad Scott is doing ok and is out of the hospital. I'm thankful that the accident did not result in any more serious injuries.
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'Pass the Pitons' Pete
Big Wall climber
like Ontario, Canada, eh?
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May 16, 2014 - 11:43am PT
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Joel,
You really need to talk to the lads from Oz...
Thanks to Yosar.
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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May 16, 2014 - 12:02pm PT
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I think it's a natural defense that each of us has when reacting to an accident report, that is the defense of the possibility that it could happen to us, too. So to analyze an accident looking for "what was done wrong" starts the discussion off in the wrong direction.
I've climbed since 1970 and had no partners involved in accidents serious enough to warrant a trip to the emergency room. Then, in March and two weeks later, I was involved in two accidents that have partners recovering from serious injury which will take months to heal and have uncertain outcomes regarding their physical capabilities there after.
As is my nature, I analyzed the hell out of the incidents to see if I could find what went wrong. My conclusion (and perhaps we'll write one of these up for ANAM) is that while we could have practiced a bit more prudence, the accidents occurred pretty much doing the standard things we do. I don't think they were overly bold.
In this accident it seems that somehow we're engaged in a "blame game." Pulling a block off an otherwise well traveled route is something we'd like to believe can't happen. Fact is it happens all the time, and not from incautiousness. I've been in the firing line after a well tested block gave way once it was surmounted, my partner was being very cautious. Fortunately I escaped with a bruised hip and a new appreciation of the randomness of these events.
There have been a number of fatalities over the last few years attributed to blocks that gave way on well travelled routes by experienced climbers.
From my experience, it is not all that unlikely, though obviously it isn't happening every time someone climbs.
While we often perceive the rate of these sorts of incidents as increasing, we actually have no idea of the true rate. We don't know about "close calls" where a block is loosened and falls but has no bad outcome. We don't know how loose the blocks we pull on are, especially if the looseness depends on how the force applied to the block. We have no idea of how the blocks we do pull on are weathering over the years, "rock solid" is not forever and the truth of that lays in a rubble pile at the base of many of the cliffs we climb.
So when I read this report I thought, once again, of the randomness of it. There is a graceful violence, the consequence of massive objects compelled by gravity, and it is swift and uncontrollable once the chain of events is set in motion. We learn from our very earliest climbs not to initiate that chain, everyone of us. When it happens it is terrible no matter what happens next, but the horror increases when our fellow climbers suffer the consequences .
I don't know what happened up there. How we react in those situations can be difficult to ascertain by all those involved. I'm sure that the event has left an indelible mark on each of the participants. Initial impressions from those participants can be passionate, I'd suggest a little time to contemplate. I'd also suggest eliminating the "monday morning quarterbacking" from those who were not there, it is most likely groundless speculation that serves almost no purpose.
The purpose that it might serve, to assure the speculators that they would have acted differently and avoided such an accident is probably misguided as there are truly limits to our ability to control the terms under which we adventure in those vertical wildernesses.
My best wishes to all those involved in this accident. I know from recent, first hand experience, what it means. And thanks again to YOSAR who put themselves in harm's way to help out fellow climbers in need of aid.
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Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
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May 16, 2014 - 03:54pm PT
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My perspective is not really a "blame game",
if that is defined as assigning 100% of blame to one person or single factor.
It's more like there are several contributory causes,
and a person's actions are one of them.
Even when you are exercising a "normal" amount of caution,
it is sometimes possible to have been even more careful and avoided the accident. So the blame can't be 100% assigned to an "unlucky" block.
That is when you reassess and may resolve to identify higher risk
situations in the future and come up with some plan to act differently.
Some similar accidents that I'm familiar with:
 Lars Johansen, Pinnacles 2011 - Josh touched a boulder in a gully and it cut loose, pinning Lars underneath. http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.php?topic_id=1685591&tn=20
Temple Crag. Polly touched a block leading p1 and it cut loose, trapping her belayer.
And close calls:
Higher Cathedral Spire, East Corner - Claire was leading a pitch up high, stepped on a block on a ledge and it launched. I was belaying in a chimney below. Fortunately I had a long rope tether to the anchor, so I just stepped left and it missed me. Normally I don't have a long tether, but I had made one to take photos of the previous pitch.
Middle Cathedral, East Buttress - I was leading the last pitch of the left variation. I stepped off a block and it rolled out, heading right down the normal 5.8 corner pitch. Fortunately it took a lucky bounce and went out over the head of my friend Jared who was leading below.
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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May 16, 2014 - 04:44pm PT
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Thanks for the link, Doug.
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Inner City
Trad climber
East Bay
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May 16, 2014 - 06:41pm PT
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A huge thanks to all the great folks at YOSAR. We are all so lucky that they are there for us.
Giant blocks DO come off sometimes...I can get sweaty hands thinking about the one I stepped on during a climb of Hobbit Book way back when...woah...luckily the person behind me was to the side..
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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May 16, 2014 - 08:07pm PT
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I pulled one off the other day while minitraxing. It landed right where the belayer would have been. It was a block that everyone who has done the climb has stoodon.
In my case I tried to jam behind it and it moved. I was able to climb above it, pull up my rope and launch it with my toe. Fortunately I had kept all my crap at the base out of the line of fire, knowing the nature of the area.....
I had taken a general precaution, but had no idea that particular, time bomb was there!
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