Most influential American climber of the 20th Century...

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Marlow

Sport climber
OSLO
May 11, 2014 - 01:29pm PT

Lynn Hill, John Gill and Ron Kauk are the first ones appearing in my mind as a boulderer and rock climber. Peter Croft in Canada.

At the start of the New Century I think Chris Sharma is the first name to appear.
Reilly

Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
May 11, 2014 - 01:29pm PT
Jeff Lowe, hands down.
Marlow

Sport climber
OSLO
May 11, 2014 - 01:36pm PT
I can easily stretch my hand up in the air and agree - Jeff Lowe is among the best climbers ever...
tom woods

Gym climber
Bishop, CA
May 11, 2014 - 01:59pm PT
For rock climbers- how about Bachar and Skinner.

Skinner for doing whatever it takes to get something big done, and Bachar for forcing people to think twice about style.

Both were controversial, but you had to pay attention.
philo

Trad climber
Is that light the end of the tunnel or a train?
May 11, 2014 - 02:46pm PT
^^^ Really BJ?
Fred was prolific but are you intimating that you and hoards of others went out of your ways to climb Fred's routes or emulate his style, that he significantly impacted the direction of climbing?
clinker

Trad climber
Santa Cruz, California
May 11, 2014 - 02:58pm PT
Royal Robbins was a great influence, for a time.
Spider Savage

Mountain climber
The shaggy fringe of Los Angeles
May 11, 2014 - 04:02pm PT
Still waiting for an American version of Uli Steck.



Mark Twight tried to influence American climbers in the right direction but just wound up entertaining us instead of inspiring us.



Alex Lowe - IMO the greatest of his time, but not really an influence on our scene.



Oh, and by the way, when we say American around here, we mean California.
donini

Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
Topic Author's Reply - May 11, 2014 - 04:07pm PT
Spider, you should be proud of California, it is the second best state in the USA for rock climbing.....second to Colorado. By the way, with the annexation of San Juan County, Indian Creek is now a part of Rado.
anita514

Gym climber
Great White North
May 11, 2014 - 04:20pm PT
the Chief
Michelle

Social climber
1187 Hunterwasser
May 11, 2014 - 04:46pm PT
I would say for me, personally, Bev Johnson.
krahmes

Social climber
Stumptown
May 11, 2014 - 04:51pm PT
It’s a hard question to answer in part because technique and accomplishment within the climbing community leaped exponentially between 1900 and 2001. Steve House is almost certainly a 21st century climber. Where does Conrad Anker fall in the spectrum: A 20th century climber or 21st century climber? Donni’s choices seem about right, though I think Bachar belongs somewhere on the list for his exploration of limits and ethics even if he’s pursuits were for the most part single faceted. Every time I think of Fred Beckey I smile so I think he belongs high up on the list; but as all lists that’s a subjective call.

Get over yourself Randisi, you are not the first American to a live a few years as a minority in foreign land. You can’t even see the answer to your hijack question which of course is Reinhold Messner.
Kalimon

Social climber
Ridgway, CO
May 11, 2014 - 05:00pm PT
Let us not forget Jim Bridwell.
donini

Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
Topic Author's Reply - May 11, 2014 - 05:00pm PT
John Muir:
influential....certainly
climber....barely
19th century.....mostly
eeyonkee

Trad climber
Golden, CO
May 11, 2014 - 05:02pm PT
I've only known Jeff for about 5 weeks. I've climbed (on rock only) with his cousin George on and off since 1990. Until my last stay with Jeff on Monday, I would say that, outside of their obvious interest in you as a person (a highly-admired trait in anyone), there was little in common between George and Jeff. Now I see it. I'm going with... the Lowes. And I'm gonna add Alex for good measure.
Spider Savage

Mountain climber
The shaggy fringe of Los Angeles
May 11, 2014 - 06:03pm PT
Having some time to digest the question, I think it falls to Yvon Chouinard.

Before his time, climbing was very limited. He came out of the mid-century renaissance (Robbins, Harding, etc.) and moved climbing gear and clothing into the main economic stream.

Before him, climbers used army surplus. Now the army follows the sporting goods industry created by Chouinard.

There was bump from Bachar & Cole in the shoes, and certainly a bump from Jardine with dynamic portection, but that was all laid into the economic stream carved out by Chouinard.


He with the most economic success has the most influence.


WBraun

climber
May 11, 2014 - 08:18pm PT
In the realm of equipment advances of climbing Royal fell short ....

Uummmm

Believe it or not Royal and Liz indirectly are one of the biggest influences in the world today.

Hardly anyone knows this.

They designed a climbing pants called 5.ll and all the special ops, cops, CIA, FBI, etc etc etc anything in LEO and fire all wear these pants.

They are huge.

Everybody thought the pants were specially designed for LEO and Tactical ops.

Royal laughed his ass off and said he designed the pants for climbing only and had no clue originally that all these LEO types were lusting these pants.

The company 5.11 was built around those original Royal Robbins 5.11 climbing pants ......

http://www.511tactical.com/
Lollie

Social climber
I'm Lolli.
May 11, 2014 - 08:26pm PT
Cory Richards.
philo

Trad climber
Is that light the end of the tunnel or a train?
May 11, 2014 - 08:29pm PT
Question; Most influential American climber of the 20th century...


Answer; Messner...
Riiiiiiiiight Rong.
philo

Trad climber
Is that light the end of the tunnel or a train?
May 11, 2014 - 08:35pm PT
That's so polite of you.
Hey I wanted the answer to be Uma Thurman.
It wasn't.


Wait did I say Uma Thurman?
I meant Henrich Harrer.
Or was it Cliven Bundy?

Maybe reading comprehension isn't your biggest deficit.
Maybe telling who is a real American is.

What's a queeb POS?
Is that another compliment?
Spider Savage

Mountain climber
The shaggy fringe of Los Angeles
May 11, 2014 - 08:42pm PT
Guys guys guys ....

Ron, What philo was trying to say, impolitely, was the Reinhold is Swiss, not American.


Sheesh. Can't leave you two alone for a minute.
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