beginner sport crags


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Topic Author's Reply - May 10, 2014 - 08:00pm PT
Hi Everyone.

Thank you all for your suggestions and advice, Coming over from Australia I am extremely grateful for all the help, it will for the basis of my trip.
Thanks mooser, if rockfall is a concern then it doesn't matter how great the climbing is, my wife would be stressing which would not make for a happy trip.
kpinwalla2 and labrat, thanks guys, I didn't even know about castle Rocks, it sounds great and is now on the short list. I can see thats its about 10 hours from Bishop, which might make it difficult, can you recommend anything with the same great climbing but a little closer to the coast?
(KP isn't it funny haw some people get upset over bolts, yet walking tracks, roads, dogs, and people do so much more damage. I work in the conservation industry and was raised a trad climber, yet recently visited some sport cliffs and honestly with the exception of the bolts, the surrounding environment was in fantastic condition, especially the cliff tops which are often the drier and more fragile ecosystems)
Based on some of the recommendations for for owens river, My wife last night begun has planing to fly into LA, I can surf some of the great longboard waves around malibu, the kids want to visit disney world, then travel a little inland toward bishop then back down to San Francisco, then back along the coast to fly out from LA again. This way we get to see a little bit more country that if we were just going to stay in one place. She also liked france, (wants the food)plus culture and there is a disney world for the kids and has read that the climbing there is good??

Kalymnos looks awesome, but we (wifey) are looking for something in the states or europe. (maybe I will be allowed to go on a climbing trip without her one day, but not while the kids are young)

Thanks to everyone else`s suggestions, I am slowly looking each one up to see if its in a location that will tick all the other boxes, please keep the suggestion coming, especially the ones between LA and San Fran.
Cheers Tony

Social climber
May 10, 2014 - 08:03pm PT
Thanks Jim - I like your routes as well! Another kid-friendly aspect of the City/Castles is the hot springs swimming pools in Almo. My kids love them. In the summer, you can escape the heat by taking the kids up to Lake Cleveland on Mt. Harrison - a beautiful alpine lake only 30 min away.
Flip Flop

Trad climber
Truckee, CA
May 10, 2014 - 08:17pm PT
I have a kid. Only Tahoe has something for everbody every day. We are 4 hours from Yosemite, San Francisco and the sport climbing near Bishop. Beaches, river floats, tourist appeal. Old and young climbers might not be your best advisors. There are about 20 worthy climbing areas nearby, each has swimming holes and casual recreation for kids. We have a good music scene, casinos, and all sorts of scenic beauty.

Bishop, CA
May 10, 2014 - 08:31pm PT
If you're planning on doing some longboarding you may want to continue up Hwy 1 north of Malibu, which is Chumash for crowded, and head on up to Ventura. C-Street point and cove are both good long board breaks, and fewer people. Not much fewer people, but Ventura is a pretty hip town. There's also Pitas point/Mondos.

Trad climber
May 12, 2014 - 04:47pm PT
That's the place, Eric. Thanks.

And antforknee...while the Gorge is great fun, and adults should definitely feel free to spend all the time they want there...I find myself (speaking strictly for myself here) feeling like it's up to me to not put kids in a situation that they don't have the wisdom, experience or insights to avoid (hence my "heads up" about rockfall).

This is the entrance to the Upper Gorge. You can see the faces below, ...
This is the entrance to the Upper Gorge. You can see the faces below, as well as the precariously situated shyte above. When you take it all in, it sort of makes you (okay, ME) shudder to think what'd happen in a good quake. Oy!
Credit: mooser

Social climber
Moorpark, CA.
May 12, 2014 - 05:05pm PT
Alabama Hills..... good for dogs, kids and climbers.


Trad climber
Auburn, CA
May 12, 2014 - 06:27pm PT
Maple Canyon, Utah might be a good option if headed out from Bishop. It would still be a 9h drive but you could visit multiple National Parks along the way. I really enjoyed climbing there. Single pitch of all grades and multi pitch 5.7 to 5.9 routes. Kind bolt spacing and the rock is very kind to the hands.

Clark Canyon above Bishop if you don't want to drive across states.

Trad climber
May 12, 2014 - 06:45pm PT
Skaha and Penticton fits the bill if you want to go as far afield as British COlumbia

Social climber
Desolation Basin, Calif.
May 12, 2014 - 06:50pm PT
Holcomb Valley Pinnacles near Big Bear, CA
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