White Room

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Messages 21 - 40 of total 50 in this topic << First  |  < Previous  |  Show All  |  Next >  |  Last >>
Matt Thomsen

Big Wall climber
Places
May 6, 2014 - 10:40pm PT
I am pretty sure Aaron and Dave have not done it. But if they wanted too, I am sure they could.

Dave did do The Promised Land, 2nd ascent, I think with Josh Thompson. Maybe that is what you are thinking of.
deuce4

climber
Hobart, Australia
May 7, 2014 - 03:21am PT
Walt loved the band Cream(second only to Joy Division), and thought the lyrics were made for the route (it is a shadowy wall):

//In the white room with black curtains near the station
Blackroof country, no gold pavements, tired starlings
Silver horses ran down moonbeams in your dark eyes
Dawnlight smiles on you leaving, my contentment
I'll wait in this place where the sun never shines

Wait in this place where the shadows run from themselves
You said no strings could secure you at the station
Platform ticket, restless diesels, goodbye windows
I walked into such a sad time at the station
As I walked out, felt my own need just beginning
I'll wait in the queue when the trains come back

Lie with you where the shadows run from themselves
At the party she was kindness in the hard crowd
Consolation for the old wound now forgotten
Yellow tigers crouched in jungles in her dark eyes
She's just dressing, goodbye windows, tired starlings
I'll sleep in this place with the lonely crowd;

Lie in the dark where the shadows run from themselves//


He played this song about a hundred times on the FA of the Kaliyuga as well, at every belay (station).
c4ligrl

Trad climber
Northern California
May 7, 2014 - 07:24am PT
In regard to White Room on Half Dome….

There was an ascent.

Sometimes, it's strange how things come about. I've been working on a thesis paper all night and have been thinking on and off about Jay all night. Sometimes, I come on here to see if anyone has a story. I never see anything.

After all these years, finally…I see you all are talking about the White Room ascent.
Jay Hodges climbed it with John Tucker and Brad Jarret. I have to check the photos to see if Dorton was there with them that year but my hunch says he was. I have about two dozen photographs of the climb, great stuff and the negatives are somewhere.
Jay sat down one night and told me all about the climb. How excited he was to do a big wall, how he had always wanted to climb Half Dome and now he was doing it with all his 'ranch buddies'….they all lived together at Jay's Ranch in Sunol.

I have photos back in California (I'm in Boston right now) so I can't post them straight away but I do have a pile of negatives here with me. If I find them, I'll post them for you all. Jay took a 20 foot digger and they have photos of it… everybody laughing having a great time.

Jay passed away from a heart attack at the ranch while he was working on moving some heavy equipment. We had planned to move in together and get married, so he had been giving me piles of photos to hang onto. He had a bunch of his buddies there with him when it all happened so I know he was surrounded by love. wow.. 13 years July 17th. Where does the time go. He was 44.

If you have any photos of him or any stories, would you please be so kind as to share them. I would be so grateful.

For those who might remember me, I was in Yose in 92-93 and worked at the Daycare.

I'll check on the photos and get back to you.

Mary

PS: Brad, Jay and Tracy later climbed the Sea of Dreams in 92. I have a ton of photographs of that as well. I would be happy to post them if anyone is interested.
Avery

climber
Topic Author's Reply - May 8, 2014 - 02:46am PT
Thanks c4ligrl,
for a very generous and moving message.
I appreciate it.
Avery

climber
Topic Author's Reply - May 8, 2014 - 02:51am PT
Hey deuce4,
White Room was written by Jack Bruce (Cream's bass player) and Peter Brown.
It would be an awful shame if someone attempted to demystify those lyrics.
1000 listener's, 1000 meanings.
Avery

climber
Topic Author's Reply - May 9, 2014 - 12:30am PT
Has the "Kali Yuga" ever been repeated?
bringmedeath

climber
la la land
May 9, 2014 - 10:10am PT
Yeah, at least a few times. Part of it is missing down low now, or maybe it has been done since then and reestablished.

Matt, is right about Dave and Josh doing The Promised Land. I remember Dave describing hooking out a bulge/roof on the 5th pitch and the lower hook edge popping leaving him on the upper hook move.
Mungeclimber

Trad climber
Nothing creative to say
May 9, 2014 - 10:16am PT
Probably like a lot of climbers, HD was a land like Olympus. Realm of the mtn gods. Only the most skilled and brave Wallers went up there.

hearing of only limited ascents on the white room during the 90s makes me think it is still the place of bad-asses!

Were routes up there, besides the Regular route, being repeated much through 2000-2010?

who is up there recently?

Ed Hartouni

Trad climber
Livermore, CA
May 9, 2014 - 08:52pm PT
Avery

climber
Topic Author's Reply - May 9, 2014 - 11:09pm PT
How apposite, thanks Ed.
Ed Hartouni

Trad climber
Livermore, CA
May 9, 2014 - 11:19pm PT
unfortunately, it's all I got...
Trusty Rusty

climber
Tahoe Area
May 10, 2014 - 02:24am PT
Thank you for the sincere post about Jay c4ligrl. I knew him and enjoyed our friendship.
Hard to imagine we haven't met. I'll email you.

Just for the record, John Tucker did not do White Room, that is sure. The team was Brad Jay & Tracy. Dorton for years called it a favorite. The same crew did Sea Of Dreams I believe the same year.

Jay is far from forgotten, by many.



ß Î Ø T Ç H

Boulder climber
extraordinaire
May 10, 2014 - 03:12am PT
I come on here to see if anyone has a story. I never see anything.
Avery

climber
Topic Author's Reply - May 10, 2014 - 03:54am PT
Nicely put, Trusty Rusty.
Chiloe

Trad climber
Lee, NH
May 10, 2014 - 09:47am PT
It's a cool name for a climb.
I thought so. In 1974, fourteen years before the FA of White Room on Half Dome, Roger Briggs and I gave that name to our own route on Notchtop in Rocky Mountain National Park.



As an historical note, White Room was the first of several 5.10 routes put up in the high country of RMNP that summer. It's now apparently upgraded to 5.11 R or X, and was a ground-up, hammerless FA (not FFA) at the time -- which made our adventure level quite high. About the route name, I wrote
Our journey up this steep face was tense, with several of those "don't fall or we'll both go" moments. In good 70s style, we carried no pitons or bolts. Sticky shoes and Friends were still years away. That evening, after Roger Briggs and I arrived home tired and dazed, we pondered the big question over beer: What route name could fit what we'd just experienced?
There is, I'm glad to see, a variation to this route named Black Curtains.
Avery

climber
Topic Author's Reply - May 10, 2014 - 06:41pm PT
I wonder how many "White Rooms" are out there?
Chiloe

Trad climber
Lee, NH
May 10, 2014 - 07:55pm PT
I'm not aware of others but there must be some out there. When the Half Dome White Room got named I recall thinking Dammit, now there are two.
WBraun

climber
May 10, 2014 - 08:08pm PT
I wonder how many "White Rooms" are out there?


Many many everywhere.

They put people in there when they completely lose it ......
Avery

climber
Topic Author's Reply - May 11, 2014 - 12:52am PT
Ain't that the truth, Werner.
Avery

climber
Topic Author's Reply - May 11, 2014 - 03:10am PT
You've got to hand it to Shipley and Plunkett, it's a uniquely appropriate name.
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