Mystery routes at Reed's Pinnacle - anyone in the know?

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Ed Hartouni

Trad climber

Livermore, CA

Topic Author's Original Post - Apr 20, 2014 - 02:28pm PT

More loose ends... so far we haven't turned up any information on these two (or three) routes.

The one on the left goes up between Flatus and Independence Pinnacle. This might be two routes, and it might be an aid line, but it could be 5.12 or so free. There are 4 bolts protecting the traverse low down to a two-bolt anchor on the slabs. Then a thin crack to a two-bolt anchor just down and right of the end of the line indicated in the figure.

The second line seems to follow the arete between the Center route and Steppin Out. It is a bolted line and might also be around 5.12

No FA information exists for either of these lines, nor any details (like rating, we didn't try)...

Anyone know anything about these?

click on this image to get a larger version

Studly

Trad climber

Apr 20, 2014 - 06:25pm PT

I think we're all a little curious. Reeds rocks.

Trad is Rad

Trad climber

San Luis Obispo California

Apr 20, 2014 - 06:36pm PT

Deer Route

The Larry

climber

Moab, UT

Apr 20, 2014 - 10:09pm PT

Bumpies

Ed Hartouni

Trad climber

Livermore, CA

Topic Author's Reply - Apr 21, 2014 - 12:21pm PT

morning numb

ablegabel

Trad climber

Dublin,Ca.

Apr 21, 2014 - 01:05pm PT

Bump for info.

Some more info. The route on the left has old, SMC hangers (probably 80's?)The second pitch that goes up through the head wall is definitely aid. The first pitch looks to be free.

The route on the right has Metolius(?) hangers on it (probably 90's) and goes out the roof to the left of "Steppin' Out". It ends at the rappel anchors of Independents Pinnacle.

Eric Gabel

Vitaliy M.

Mountain climber

San Francisco

Apr 21, 2014 - 02:04pm PT

Sorry, not an appropriate thread to ask, but I noticed a line with new looking bolts between North Buttress and DNB. Going towards a right facing orange dihedral higher up. Line seems closely bolted and goes up terrain that is a waterfall during snow melt. Anyone know much about this line or orange dihedral above it?
How about chimney system/steep lieback (?) corner system just left of North Buttress route (not DNB)? Anyone done it, or know what is it called/rated at least?
Since you guys are keeping records, might as well ask...

velvet!

Trad climber

La Cochitaville

Apr 21, 2014 - 02:12pm PT

I got a SAR buddy that might have some info. I'll ask him when he gets out of his desert wanderings!

Clint Cummins

Trad climber

SF Bay area, CA

Apr 21, 2014 - 02:55pm PT

Vitaliy,

There is an orange corner *right* of the North Buttress which is a newish route. It is right of the Right Rabbit Ear, on the left margin of the North Face Apron. There are 2 bolts getting to it, then it's gear. So it's not closely bolted.

Between the DNB and the North Buttress is The Turret (freed by Donini and Bragg), and 3 routes by J and partners (which probably also has some orange corners, but I doubt they are closely bolted :-) ).
[Edited: see Melissa's post on the next page]

Down low, the big wide orange corner just left of p3 of the North Buttress is not a recorded route. It's marked on the topo for The Turret and Left Rabbit Ear. If it looks like fun, go do it and report back!
Further left is a chimney system which is the original left side start to the North Buttress.

I also hope this doesn't derail the Reed's investigation!

Matt's

climber

Apr 21, 2014 - 03:25pm PT

If Clint, ed and gabel don't know the route, does it exist?

Vitaliy M.

Mountain climber

San Francisco

Apr 21, 2014 - 03:25pm PT

Thank you Clint!

If Clint, ed and gabel don't know the route, does it exist?

Yeah, right?! I bet Ed is imagining things! :)

Jake M.

Trad climber

Santa Cruz, CA

Apr 21, 2014 - 03:42pm PT

The right line of bolts on Independence Pinnacle do exist!

I saw those when Stephen McCabe and I were doing the I.P. Center route in Nov 2013. It looked like thin face climbing through some steep bulges, and the bolts were "newer" looking, 90's Metolius sounds right.

Clint Cummins

Trad climber

SF Bay area, CA

Apr 21, 2014 - 07:35pm PT

Yep, I've seen those bolts on the right route, too. (Also the left one when I did the Grey Bullet).
It's just a matter of asking around and hopefully somebody knows.

WBraun

climber

Apr 21, 2014 - 08:21pm PT

Top secret routes.

So secret that even "know everything" NSA has no clue .......

Ed Hartouni

Trad climber

Livermore, CA

Topic Author's Reply - Apr 22, 2014 - 04:00am PT

ok, I'll wait for any info...

mcreel

climber

Barcelona

Apr 22, 2014 - 08:05am PT

People in NZ are born without a sense of curiosity?

fosburg

climber

Apr 22, 2014 - 09:03am PT

The arete left of Steppin' Out is Scrapyard Thing which I climbed sometime in the early 90's. It's about 12b.

RP3

Big Wall climber

Sonora

Apr 22, 2014 - 10:07am PT

WOW DannyDo! That is one of the most stupid, ignorant posts I have seen on supertopo (...quite an achievement, on your part!)

Ed Hartouni

Trad climber

Livermore, CA

Topic Author's Reply - Apr 22, 2014 - 10:25am PT

thanks for the reminder regarding adventure, DannyDo.

The point of my question is to get the FA acknowledgement right in future guidebooks.

There are more than 1000 routes in the Valley after the 1998 comprehensive guide, and there is plenty of opportunity to put other routes up. I've participated in quite a bit of new route development, and have partners that have "paid the price" in terms of broken bones in the process.

I'm sure you have a lot of stories to tell of similar adventures from the tone of your post. Not toting a guidebook to the crags is a great way to have those adventures. Tell us what you've done.

thanks Fos!