Book of hate

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RyanD

climber

Squamish

Topic Author's Original Post - Apr 18, 2014 - 07:48pm PT

Came across this one while trying to dig up a leavitation vid for skcreidc's fist stack thread.

So sick!

[Click to View YouTube Video]

Reeotch

climber

4 Corners Area

Apr 18, 2014 - 08:09pm PT

Nice!

bluering

Trad climber

Santa Clara, CA

Apr 18, 2014 - 08:12pm PT

Makes it look so easy....

overwatch

climber

Apr 18, 2014 - 08:41pm PT

Is that being facetious, blue ring? Didn't look easy for him to me. Pretty cool but "quiet please"? That gave me a chuckle

Alexey

climber

San Jose, CA

Apr 18, 2014 - 08:46pm PT

thanks for posting, good footage.
he did not make it easy, but his footwork is amazing...

climber

Apr 18, 2014 - 09:01pm PT

Horrible. My hips and shoulders ache just watching.

Nice work though.

bluering

Trad climber

Santa Clara, CA

Apr 18, 2014 - 09:03pm PT

No, I meant that. He made a sick exercise in stemming look easy. And his feet have almost no friction in some of those moves. Couple that with his use of counter-pressure in his hands, and he made it look 5.11.

It was pretty impressive.

Highlife

Trad climber

California

Apr 18, 2014 - 09:05pm PT

yeah, quite please was good. I wanna say that all the times but feel like i'm being a dick haha.

Michelle

Social climber

1187 Hunterwasser

Apr 18, 2014 - 09:08pm PT

MisterE

climber

Apr 18, 2014 - 09:10pm PT

Love the velcro-attached gear - brilliant energy and time-saving idea.

Damn, so that is what 5.14 stemming looks like.

Huh.

mouse from merced

Trad climber

The finger of fate, my friends, is fickle.

Apr 18, 2014 - 09:33pm PT

Smear tactics on the book of hate.

Loved it!

Mike Bolte

Trad climber

Planet Earth

Apr 18, 2014 - 09:41pm PT

I don't think many have done this route. Honnold a few years back and Beth R. are the only leads of it that made news. Any of the excellent climbers who hang around ST been up there?

EDIT: quick search turned up this. Engelkirk made the second and it sounds like Heinze Zak also got it.

http://www.supertopo.com/climbers-forum/309288/Book-of-Hate-repeat

Sanskara

climber

Apr 18, 2014 - 09:57pm PT

Content!

Now that makes me want to get out and climb..

neebee

Social climber

calif/texas

Apr 18, 2014 - 10:05pm PT

hey there say, RyanD... and all...

i will never cease to be amazed at what the human body, eye-brain-and-all, in sync, can do... :O

wow, is hardly a good 'exclaimation'...

whether watching this, or seeing some 'intricate' (and i mean intricate) ballet sequence of movement, it is a marvel to watch...

i myself, too, see years of training as to brainwork, here, too...

thanks for sharing... i always am impressed with the work involved and the brainwork, in climbing, as well as the actual physical work...
and wow--i sure can appreciate the joy, felt, once done, too!

thanks again, i am so happy to be able to see videos of such, with you all...

RyanD

climber

Squamish

Topic Author's Reply - Apr 18, 2014 - 10:07pm PT

Thanks Mike B, I was wondering that as well.

2 other questions to throw in the mix:

Was this the hardest climb in the valley when it first went up?

What was the reaction people had to the palm gloves?

Great effort & a beautiful line.

HighTraverse

Trad climber

Bay Area

Apr 18, 2014 - 10:32pm PT

AMaZinG
One of the best shot vids I've seen.
So did Randy put it up?

No way did he make it look easy, even for him. Those moves up under the roof are a b*tch.
Now I don't feel so bad when I'm up under a roof and struggling to not fall out.

Ed Hartouni

Trad climber

Livermore, CA

Apr 18, 2014 - 10:33pm PT

Book of Hate 5.13d FP(bolted by): Rolland Arsons, by 1999; FA: Randy Leavitt, 1999

bluering

Trad climber

Santa Clara, CA

Apr 18, 2014 - 10:36pm PT

Where's the route located, Ed? Which cliff, what area?

Rankin

Social climber

Greensboro, North Carolina

Apr 18, 2014 - 10:41pm PT

It's a striking corner from a distance and the climbing looks really, really hard. I heard a story that Leavitt trained for it by pushing large stacks of tires around. TFPU.