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Johannsolo
climber
Soul Cal
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Apr 18, 2014 - 07:25pm PT
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South Ridge Arete FA:Skip Guerin
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Johannsolo
climber
Soul Cal
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Apr 18, 2014 - 07:33pm PT
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Yea, Woodson is getting pretty disgusting with all the TP and feces around. Thank God they are staying away from Suicide, I know places up there casual hikers cannot access.
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Ryans
Trad climber
Idyllwild, CA
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Apr 19, 2014 - 12:21am PT
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South Ridge clean-up and bouldering party next Saturday (4/26)? I bet if we bring a few buckets of water, some large brushes, and a mild soap, we could get the rock looking pretty good. Beers and bouldering breaks all day of course.
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rottingjohnny
Sport climber
mammoth lakes ca
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Apr 19, 2014 - 01:44am PT
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Don't blame Sprock...He's going cold-turkey with the toilet paper...Pee yoo..
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neebee
Social climber
calif/texas
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Apr 19, 2014 - 03:31am PT
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hey there say, Gdavis... sad to hear this,as to your special boulder-spot, and about others spots as well...
:(
my mom and i have talks about these kinds of things, as to hiking areas, since we are not climbers... so much 'filth' and junk around places that once were lovely... :(
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pyro
Big Wall climber
Calabasas
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Apr 19, 2014 - 11:10am PT
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shouldn't this be apart of the whine thread?
fires happen!
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GDavis
Social climber
SOL CAL
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 19, 2014 - 11:12am PT
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Holds broke, rain ain't gonna fix that : / and I WANT MY OWN WHINING THREAD! WAAH!
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bluering
Trad climber
Santa Clara, CA
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Apr 19, 2014 - 12:02pm PT
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Over the past year, I've been thinking of applying for an AAC Stewardship grant or an Access Fund grant to get a pit toilet up there because I'm tired of finding toilet paper and feces next to the boulders. Maybe in addition to a toilet we could get some way to block driving access directly up to the boulders to dissuade the partying/homeless type from camping so close to the rocks. Has anybody ever had success receiving a grant for a project like this?
It's a good idea, the lower gate. This is what we did at Summit Rock here in the Bay Area. Late-night partiers would go there at night and park up higher where the LEO could not see their cars. And yeah, the would chuck empies from the top and shower glass all over the faces and the base. Really nasty.
After a Peregrine decided to nest there, the Land Managers and Park Service decided this was a good excuse to shut the whole place down to EVERYONE indefinitely.
We recognized this was totally unreasonable, as did Falcon experts and other biologists. We employed the help of the Access Fund and one of their lawyers. Several locals were involved in this as well, chiefly, Bruce Morris.
It was decided that a gate right off the road would be opened closed at sunrise/sunset to prevent partiers from hiding their cars there at night. They have to park right on the road, and they wouldn't do that.
Secondly, it was decided that there would be an online permitting system that would allow 30 people a day to climb out there. Keeps the numbers down.
It seems to be a good compromise.
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Ballo
Trad climber
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Apr 19, 2014 - 06:06pm PT
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Considering the traffic, the amount of 'damage' to this area seems much ado about nothing. I haven't seen massive amounts of trash. I have found a few tires (redneck droppings….why do they discard tires in the woods?)
Flakes come off. If it wasn't a fire, it would have been a freeze/thaw. Asking rangers to police the area more seems like a very bad idea to me; one that would likely bite us in the ass. A better approach might be putting up a kiosk and appealing to common sense rather than getting the law involved.
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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Apr 19, 2014 - 07:40pm PT
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Send it & spray paint your name on it.
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bluering
Trad climber
Santa Clara, CA
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Apr 19, 2014 - 09:47pm PT
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Considering the traffic, the amount of 'damage' to this area seems much ado about nothing. I haven't seen massive amounts of trash. I have found a few tires (redneck droppings….why do they discard tires in the woods?)
Flakes come off. If it wasn't a fire, it would have been a freeze/thaw. Asking rangers to police the area more seems like a very bad idea to me; one that would likely bite us in the ass. A better approach might be putting up a kiosk and appealing to common sense rather than getting the law involved.
Totally disagree with evertyhing, brah. You are wrong.
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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Apr 20, 2014 - 12:04am PT
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Bitd I almost tripped over a bobcat while jogging between boulder problems in Idlewild.
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Watusi
Social climber
Newport, OR
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Apr 20, 2014 - 12:38am PT
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Shot of me from the late '80's... This was my favorite problem in Idyllwild! (photo Ron Amick)
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jonnyrig
Trad climber
formerly known as hillrat
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Apr 20, 2014 - 02:38pm PT
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Why not sandblast the soot off?
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ron gomez
Trad climber
fallbrook,ca
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Apr 20, 2014 - 04:14pm PT
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Don't look like you Mike.... Not chiseled enough! Miss you Brother!
Peace
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Friend
climber
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Apr 20, 2014 - 05:38pm PT
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ULTRA classic photo, Watusi. I've seen it before and it was super inspiring during the multiple visits it took me to send the SRA. I posted a vid up thread, more recent of course, but I hope it takes you back to an awesome place and time.
Dr. F, I always suspected that if you'd fired the thing, you would have put a more heroic (post-crux) shot in the book!
(For those who don't have the first ed, he's on the same move as johansolo upthread: just below the crux)
No disrespect intended Dr F... bottom line is "the Fry book" has been the definitive reference for 25 years - proud. I still have both editions on my bookshelf..
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Hummerchine
Trad climber
East Wenatchee, WA
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Apr 20, 2014 - 10:48pm PT
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Stuff like that just makes me want to puke! It's such a power spot up there, and that problem is so proud. Not that I will ever climb that hard...but it's quite special for me that my dear friend "Friend" has climbed it. I'm sure the dicks that roasted it had no idea of the priceless gem they were desecrating...but still...
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bluering
Trad climber
Santa Clara, CA
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Apr 20, 2014 - 11:08pm PT
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After meeting Jody, retired CHP officer, this seems to me why he left the force.
And I've talked to LEO Rangers on both sides of this.
Certain laws are in place to deter "partiers" and "wastoids".
These laws tend to get people like me in trouble, when I just want to take a few beers out climbing. I'm just trying to have a good day in the sun with some beers.
I always pack out, and carry other people's sh#t out.
The only solution to this is to tell the rangers where the wasteoids are. The people abusing the grounds.
I've had LEO Rangers let me go with warnings that I shouldn't encourage others.
I'm good friends, somewhat, with this Ranger.
We need to keep sh#t on the DL (down-low) in these areas. Don't set a bad example.
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Gerg
Trad climber
Calgary
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Apr 30, 2014 - 02:43pm PT
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Dude just scrub the soot off, it won't take that long.
I have had to scrub soot from a misplaced campfire next to a boulder about same size.
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Splater
climber
Grey Matter
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Apr 30, 2014 - 03:40pm PT
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Maybe a small plaque asking people to not have a fire or damage the climb?
rivet it on the side?
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