Everest Avalanche

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crankster

Trad climber
South Lake Tahoe, CA
Topic Author's Original Post - Apr 18, 2014 - 12:13am PT
Bad news...http://www.cnn.com/2014/04/18/world/asia/nepal-everest-avalanche/index.html
johntp

Trad climber
socal
Apr 18, 2014 - 04:54am PT
I heard it was above camp 2, but the source is sketchy (radio news).
neebee

Social climber
calif/texas
Apr 18, 2014 - 05:02am PT
hey there say, all... very sad to hear this... :(
condolences and prayers for all concerned... :(
John Duffield

Mountain climber
New York
Apr 18, 2014 - 05:10am PT
Sounds like it involved the rope fixing teams :(.

http://www.bbc.com/news/world-asia-27075638

The Sherpa guides had climbed up the slope early in the morning to fix ropes for climbers and prepare the route for mountaineers when the avalanche hit, officials are quoted as saying by the Associated Press news agency.

The identities of the dead and missing have not been officially disclosed, tourism ministry spokesman, Mohan Krishna Sapkota, told the BBC.

He said a search and rescue operation was now under way and that three helicopters have been sent to the area.

John Ely

Trad climber
DC
Apr 18, 2014 - 09:25am PT
Here's the AP wire report, which provides some minor corrections and details regarding the remarks above.

http://abcnews.go.com/International/wireStory/avalanche-sweeps-everest-believed-buried-23373209


And more details:

http://www.thehimalayantimes.com/fullNews.php?headline=At+least+12+killed+in+Everest+avalanche&NewsID=412101

Isn't this the most Sherpas at one time on Everest since the Mallory mess last century?
mike m

Trad climber
black hills
Apr 18, 2014 - 09:37am PT
So sorry to hear this. Thinking about those with friends and family over there
zBrown

Ice climber
Brujo de la Playa
Apr 18, 2014 - 09:52am PT
Some news video here. It's being called Everest's worst disaster.

http://www.nbcnews.com/#/news/world/least-13-sherpas-dead-avalanche-sweeps-mount-everest-n83786

Graphs from 2013 article



zBrown

Ice climber
Brujo de la Playa
Apr 18, 2014 - 10:04am PT
~Amen!
Toker Villain

Big Wall climber
Toquerville, Utah
Apr 18, 2014 - 10:20am PT
It won't stop wealthy incompetent people from buying the summit and with it the lives of unfortunate sherpas.
Spider Savage

Mountain climber
The shaggy fringe of Los Angeles
Apr 18, 2014 - 10:23am PT
Sounds like it would be a good idea to send a bunch of Sherpa's to Alta for avy control training.

It's great that the climbing community is supporting the economy in Nepal. We need to continue to go further. The economics of money that push people into harms way needs to be controlled at the money source.

Buying a trip to the top of Everst is not an E ticket ride at Disneyland. It needs to come involved responsiblity for sustainability in nature and in the human economy. The same attitude applies to any mountain peak or trek anywhere in the world.


In other words; I think this accident could have been prevented. I'm thinking what can I do about it.
zBrown

Ice climber
Brujo de la Playa
Apr 18, 2014 - 10:26am PT
Meanwhile:


Kuala Lumpur: Malaysia and Australia will sign a deal specifying who handles any wreckage from missing flight MH370 that may be recovered, including the crucial "black box" flight data recorders, local media reports.

Malaysia is drafting the agreement "to safeguard both nations from any legal pitfalls that may surface during that (recovery) phase," the New Straits Times reported on Friday.

Maybe the Sherpas need a stronger union in order to obtain some of that training.
matty

Trad climber
under the sea
Apr 18, 2014 - 10:31am PT
Too sad....terrible for the Sherpas.

To bad they have to risk their lives to climb a mountain for people who cant climb it themselves.

=(
Jan

Mountain climber
Colorado, Nepal & Okinawa
Apr 18, 2014 - 10:35am PT
For those of you with Sherpa friends, Nepalnews.com has released the names of the Sherpas killed in the avalanche on Mt. Everest yesterday. They are mostly from Khumbu and east Nepal. I believe the number after their name tells the specific panchayat or village voting area they are from:

Mingma Nuru Sherpa and Dorji Sherpa of Namche-4, Solukhumbu; Ang Tshiri Sherpa of Namche-07 and Nima Sherpa of Namche-09; Phurba Ongyal Sherpa of Khumjung-07, Solukhumbu; Lakpa Tenjing Sherpa and Chhring Ongchu Sherpa of Khumjung-02; Dorjee Khatri of Lelep-09, Taplejung; Then Dorjee Sherpa of Khumjung-07; Phur Tempa Sherpa of Yaphu-09, Sankhuwasabha; Pasag Karma Sherpa of Juvin-05, Solukhumbu and Asman Tamang of Sotang-09, Solukhumbu.

Similarly, those missing are Tenzing Chottar Sherpa of Namche-09, Solukhumbu; Ankaji Sherpa of Makalu-09, Sankhuwasabha; Pem Tenji Sherpa of Choksam-02, Solukhumbu and Ash Bahadur Gurung of Laprak-07, Gorkha.

The deceased as well as the missing mountaineers belong to Shangrila Nepal, Himalayan Guides, Nepal Treks and Expedition, Seven Summit Treks, Summit Nepal Trekking and Himalayan Ecstasy Treks.

A very very sad day.
mike m

Trad climber
black hills
Apr 18, 2014 - 10:56am PT
My guess is that the Sherpas are very avalance aware, having lived with avalances most of their lives, but the scale of things here are much bigger than anything in the lower 48.
Jan

Mountain climber
Colorado, Nepal & Okinawa
Apr 18, 2014 - 11:08am PT
Alan Arnette's website always has lot of good information on the Everest scene.

http://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2014/04/17/everest-2014-avalanche-near-camp-1-sherpa-deaths/

He says:

"This area is known for avalanches. In 2010 an avalanche actually hit Camp 1, destroying many tents and causing some injuries. Camp 1 was moved further away from Everest and more towards Nuptse as a result. In 2012, an avalanche released off Nuptse and into the Western CWM near Camp 1 and one Sherpa cook was swept into a crevasse but was rescued and taken back to Kathmandu with back injuries. Another released in 2013 with no serious impact.

The most Sherpa killed on Everest thus far was in 1922 when an avalanche on the North Col killed 7 Sherpa. There have been 86 Sherpa deaths on Everest since 1922 with 27 deaths from avalanches and 12 from a collapse in the Khumbu Icefall."

Jan

Mountain climber
Colorado, Nepal & Okinawa
Apr 18, 2014 - 11:11am PT
Gavin Turner was climbing just below the avalanche and reported his experience.

I am safely back at Base Camp.

I was climbing through the icefall this morning at about 6am when a very large avalanche struck a couple of hundred meters above us. I was with my incredible Sherpa, Phu Tsering. We watched the enormous avalanche cloud approach us and we were both covered in snow dust. After some initial concern, we knew we were safe and essentially out of harms way. Phu Tsering chanted some Buddhist prayers and made an offering to the mountain. The avalanche cloud covered us, but fortunately we were a couple of hundred meters under the impact zone.

There were many climbers and Sherpas above us, higher in the icefall, and an unknown number of them (reportedly all Sherpas) have been killed and injured. The rescue is underway and many Sherpas and westerners were rushing up the mountain to assist in the rescue as I was descending.

I am extremely grateful to be back at base camp and feel deeply saddened and shocked at the loss of life today.

My prayers are with all touched by this tragedy.


http://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2014/04/17/everest-2014-avalanche-near-camp-1-sherpa-deaths/
Jan

Mountain climber
Colorado, Nepal & Okinawa
Apr 18, 2014 - 11:20am PT
Interestingly, three non Sherpas died among that group, one Tamang, one Gurung, and one high caste Hindu, a Khatri.

In the past, the Sherpas held a monopoly on climbing, but now slowly, a few others have begun to enter the business as more and more Sherpas depart for other safer occupations.
Lollie

Social climber
I'm Lolli.
Apr 18, 2014 - 12:49pm PT
That's awful. Poor people.
Jan

Mountain climber
Colorado, Nepal & Okinawa
Apr 18, 2014 - 01:20pm PT
It seems it was a large serac that collapsed rather than a snow avalanche.

The next problem looming is that there are 350 people stuck at Camp 1 above the site, including a team of westerners up there to acclimatize. We can probably expect some of them to have to be rescued for HAPE or HACE if the Ice Doctors can't reopen the path soon as they were expected to spend only 24 hours up there ( between 19 and 20,000 feet) before descending again.



Again from Alan Arnette's site

Everest 2014: Avalanche Near Camp 1-Sherpa Deaths:Update 6



Around 6:30 am, April 18th, an avalanche occurred off the West Shoulder of Everest hitting an area just below Camp 1 which is located at 19,500′ but near the top of the Icefall. The estimated altitude was 5800m or 19,038′.

At this point in the Everest season, only one commercial team, IMG’s Hybrid group, was in the Western CWM as they had climbed to Camp 1 the previous day. Many other teams with an estimated client base of 350 non-Sherpas had only recently arrived at EBC and were preparing to make the same climb today or tomorrow.

However, there were over 100 Sherpas from multiple teams ferrying loads to Camp 1 and Camp 2. Some had already completed their job and were returning to Everest Base Camp, some were still climbing higher. The avalanche released without warning and so suddenly that it was impossible to avoid the impact. The area of impact is heavily crevassed making rescues difficult.

An estimated 100 Sherpas or Westerners were estimated to be above the impact area and are cut-off from returning to base camp until a new route can be put in by the Icefall Doctors, a dedicated set of experts in route fixing within the Khumbu Icefall. This could take several days depending on the damage but these Sherpa are skilled and can do amazing work, plus they will get help for all the other Sherpa.

Everest-2014-AvalancheMy best estimate is that the area that released was a large snow serac located low on the West Shoulder of Everest. This serac has generated great concern for years and was one of the reasons Himex canceled their 2012 season for fear it would release. It has released three out of the last four years.


Avalanche beacons are rarely used by Everest climbers but have been used for several years by Himalayan Experience, aka Himex- Russell Brice. None of their Sherpas were involved in this incident so it is unclear if beacons would have aided in the recuse. Also, the search team must have had proper search equipment to use the beacons. This incident may change how teams view this valuable tool.

Helicopters were called in to take the bodies back to base camp using the long line technique where the body is attached to a line connected to the helicopter thus avoiding having the helicopter land on unstable terrain. Survivors were flown to Lukla or Kathmandu for further treatment.
phylp

Trad climber
Millbrae, CA
Apr 18, 2014 - 01:24pm PT
Thanks Jan for your usual accurate reporting. I especially appreciate that you listed the names of all identified to date. I don't expect the mainstream newsmedia to say more than "10 dead, more missing" but as climbers we need to recognize the individuals involved.
Phyl
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