NOT modern!

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thebravecowboy

climber

in the face of the fury of the funk

Apr 17, 2014 - 02:59am PT

Geezer Highway on Independence Monument is not "modern"

Wildincognito

climber

Eastside

Apr 17, 2014 - 03:12am PT

geezer highway on Independence Monument is not "modern"

HaHa-did somebody just say geezer hIghway. This tread (troll) has legs. Nice one!

Charlie D.

Trad climber

Western Slope, Tahoe Sierra

Apr 17, 2014 - 08:11am PT

You may not be modern but you've stayed contemporary, good job Jim. If 5.12 is the modern threshold I'd say I've never been modern but was new once upon a time.

steveA

Trad climber

Wolfeboro, NH

Apr 17, 2014 - 08:36am PT

Jim,

Good story. Sounds like I was lucky not to go up that one with you!

Haul that young "5.12" climber up the SS, and see him whimper.

richross

Trad climber

Apr 17, 2014 - 11:04am PT

Modern Times is not modern. ;)

ydpl8s

Trad climber

Santa Monica, California

Apr 17, 2014 - 11:05am PT

Nice list Philo, from that list I've done one (super squeeze), backed off one early, as a second (crack of fear) and would not even consider the rest. Nothing "modern" about me.

clinker

Trad climber

Santa Cruz, California

Apr 17, 2014 - 11:20am PT

Techniques rarely used in "modern" climbing were called into action.....arm bars, heel toes and every stem position possible. 10b eh....I sandbagged myself, felt like an "old school" climber again and not just old. What a workout and only for 5.10 credit.

Sick old puppy. Clint too.

TwistedCrank

climber

Bungwater Hollow, Ida-ho

Apr 17, 2014 - 01:01pm PT

Being "informed" about modern only means that you have indeed arrived.

jgill

Boulder climber

Colorado

Apr 17, 2014 - 02:33pm PT

Hair dyed black like Reagan and a face tuck. Problem solved.

;>)

BFK

Trad climber

San Francisco, CA

Apr 17, 2014 - 02:37pm PT

How about the Yawn,... especially the "5.7" corner on pitch 3. Good Grief! That'll make you swallow your pride.

Texas Flake is another one that burned more calories than I expected,... but I think that was from mostly fear.

norm larson

climber

wilson, wyoming

Apr 17, 2014 - 04:51pm PT

A modern route that is a real rope stretcher is 29 meters. A big rack is 20 quickdraws.

Pre-modern is about any route you find with a "+" after it.

CalicoJack

climber

Apr 17, 2014 - 05:14pm PT

The 5.8 squeeze on P2 of Eeyore's Enigma at the Leap. I'm pretty sure that broke my 'wide curious' streak I had going last year...

mike m

Trad climber

black hills

Apr 17, 2014 - 05:30pm PT

20 draws kind of wieghs a lot. And it is now 34.5 meters is a rope stretcher.

Alexey

climber

San Jose, CA

Apr 17, 2014 - 05:39pm PT

I do not know are those climbs "Modern" or Not, -( Donini knows better) but they are stelar:
Anticipation
Leanie Meanie
Vendetta p5
The Enema
This and That
Cramming
Mongolian Clusterf*#k
Siberian Swarm Screw
Hand Job
Goldrush
Basket Case
Book of Job
Overhang Overpass

Fritz

Trad climber

Choss Creek, ID

Apr 17, 2014 - 08:34pm PT

Donini dinner, not modern thread bump.

I think my ancient Choss Crawls mostly don't qualify, or are lost in Guide-book-less, no history.

Dream of White Sheep

on Idaho's Salmon River around 1981, was one of those. Poison Ivy crawl start, and big off-width, to barely-surviving a car-door sized slab that trashed the rock, numbed my ankle, and made for great rock-fall below.

Couldn't have done it without Avery Tichner doing the bold leads. He actually rated it a 10d.