Wide crack whips and big bros?

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Mungeclimber

Trad climber
one pass away from the big ditch
Topic Author's Original Post - Aug 13, 2006 - 07:53pm PT
Any of you guys whip onto a bigbro? Let's hear about it.
Jaybro

Social climber
The West
Aug 13, 2006 - 08:00pm PT
Not me, baby! Though I risked it a few times.

On the hand, Do many people whip on wide? Melting, is different.
Apocalypsenow

Trad climber
Cali
Aug 13, 2006 - 08:05pm PT
Good one Jaybro! I was armbarring in some wide obscure crack in Josh and got spit out. Weird, I felt I was so secure. No Bigbro though...hadn't placed any gear yet.
Greg Barnes

climber
Aug 13, 2006 - 08:57pm PT
Yes, but not really - I had a laser-cut horizontal 10" crack, a totally perfect #4 bigbro, and took a super-short fall on it (hold broke only 3' above the crack, new route, didn't even have my feet established in the horizontal crack yet).

A far cry from a "I think it's pretty good" bigbro placement that you kick with your foot as you slither/melt out of an offwidth. Haven't tried that yet...
Tarbuster

climber
right here, right now
Aug 13, 2006 - 09:29pm PT
big bro?
original units were like a james bond trickery device!
Plap, thing goes ka-chunk.
Ya sure, whatever, aspire on I thought.
stay frosty...
Mungeclimber

Trad climber
one pass away from the big ditch
Topic Author's Reply - Aug 13, 2006 - 11:49pm PT
melt out to point of full fall?

yeah, kicking those puppies ain't so good for the health.

bhilden

Trad climber
Mountain View, CA
Aug 14, 2006 - 12:19am PT
As any off-width master can tell you one big problems with passive pro in an off-width is climbing past the pro, something which can signinficantly increase the difficulty. When coupled with the fact that most of these passive devices don't look like they could hold a fall, it is a double whammy.

I say invest in large SLCD's they are totally worth it. And, if you have to leave one, rather than just walk one up the crack, you can put it way back (but not too far back) in the crack and have another SLCD above you as you climb past it.

Bruce
Ed Hartouni

Trad climber
Livermore, CA
Aug 14, 2006 - 01:04am PT
ablegable wipped out of a flare chimney on one of the routes we're working last fall, his pro was a #4 big bro... it was really bomb-proof, and Eric is a big boy. Props to him on getting it in right 'cause that was all he had to the ground at that point.

We were both surprised.
Mungeclimber

Trad climber
one pass away from the big ditch
Topic Author's Reply - Aug 14, 2006 - 01:48am PT
I always find a point at which, on hard for me wide cracks, I become insecure in either contact or leverage. My sense of it is that I'm rushing the moves to get out of the wide.

Do you folks ever get that sensation on the wide? Are you patient or pushy? Thrutch and throttle or smooth squirm?
Jaybro

Social climber
The West
Aug 14, 2006 - 02:51am PT
Oh yeah, I've had THAT feeling. Of the choices given, I vote for patience; think good thoughts and get the breathing back is all you can hope for.

One time I watched my arm melt out of a bomber armbar;- Megabucks, Res wall, 10th(?) route of the day, shorts/mythos two wide peices (no wide plans that day), "how hard can a straight .11 ow put up back in '85 be, anyway? one last route for the day, what the hell?" fifty foot runouts, new romance/no sleep the night before; the works- somehow I caught my left toe on the only face hold in Indian Creek before certain death insued.
eeyonkee

Trad climber
Golden, CO
Aug 14, 2006 - 09:54am PT
Big Bros? Never use 'em (hardly).
Bruce Morris

Social climber
Belmont, California
Aug 14, 2006 - 03:49pm PT
No one ever really "whips out" of a wide crack. Can't be done (except by a novice).
Jaybro

Social climber
The West
Aug 14, 2006 - 04:38pm PT
Except, occasionally, bomb bay roofs.
marty(r)

climber
beneath the valley of ultravegans
Aug 14, 2006 - 10:02pm PT
Jaybro wrote:
"fifty foot runouts, new romance/no sleep the night before; the works"


Yours is/was a charmed life!


Sounds like time to reignite the 'Wide with Pride' thread from the past few years. Leroy, you up?
TradIsGood

Trad climber
Gunks end of country
Aug 14, 2006 - 10:06pm PT
Wide. Crack. Whips. Big Bros.

And no pictures.

Come ahn maaen!

Post up!

We will know it when we see it!
Mungeclimber

Trad climber
one pass away from the big ditch
Topic Author's Reply - Aug 15, 2006 - 01:34am PT
if a bigbro can handle a fall as described above, I'm assuming you could also stand on one. get a full blow rest, eh?

davidji

Social climber
CA
Aug 15, 2006 - 01:50am PT
"if a bigbro can handle a fall as described above, I'm assuming you could also stand on one. get a full blow rest, eh?"

I have trouble not standing on 'em. They can be a welcome ladder rung. Of course you need to be careful...

Leroy

climber
Aug 18, 2006 - 04:29pm PT
Want WWWWWIde.Im in Elbesandstein right now.Wheres Jbro and Grug when u need em?No chalk,No modern gear allowed.
Jaybro

Social climber
The West
Aug 18, 2006 - 05:43pm PT
Leroy, you tease! ¿U gotta camera in that cave??
Leroy

climber
Sep 12, 2006 - 08:04am PT
Got no camera.But u can bring one over when u come.Oh and did I say something about girls.You'll be picking your jaw off the ground.
Mungeclimber

Trad climber
one pass away from the big ditch
Topic Author's Reply - Sep 12, 2006 - 02:34pm PT
Leroy, serious mang, post some pics.

Elb looks rad. The one place I want to visit in Europe.
Gunkie

climber
East Coast US
Sep 12, 2006 - 02:45pm PT
if a bigbro can handle a fall as described above, I'm assuming you could also stand on one. get a full blow rest, eh?

Stand on the sling side only!

I was doing some OW at the New River Gorge about 13 years ago and had placed a Big Bro. As I oozed by it, I nudged it with my toe on the unslung side; it trickled out and whipped down the rope, nailing my belayer on the wrist. So now I'm 30' up with no gear and a crippled belayer. I almost did a Yabo and jumped into the nearest tree. Instead, I placed another BigBro above my head and lowered off, hoping the damn thing would hold. It did and I ran around, rapped off and retrieved the gear. We then went for ice and beer to placate our various injuries, orthopedic and mental. It was 10 AM on a West Virginia summer morning. Yee ha.

Jaybro

Social climber
The West
Sep 12, 2006 - 04:18pm PT
Leroy, paint some depictions on the ceiling of your 'house' like the previous owners did. Just left of Bison with spears.
Ed Hartouni

Trad climber
Livermore, CA
Jul 10, 2013 - 03:25am PT
another bumpage
thebravecowboy

Social climber
Colorado Plateau
Jul 13, 2013 - 01:27am PT
Jaybro your life sounds awesome!
nature

climber
Boulder, CO
Jul 13, 2013 - 01:31am PT
he gets to eat all the sushi he wants in four weeks w/o paying* for it. I want that life.
mojede

Trad climber
Butte, America
Jul 13, 2013 - 02:04am PT
Never taken the zing on one, but I'll admit to standing on once...
Norwegian

Trad climber
dancin on the tip of god's middle finger
Jul 13, 2013 - 05:32am PT
even worse i once ground off my entire
left nipple when i turned
a grace-begging-off-width
into squeeze-job.

the poor thing remained a scab for 6 months
and on the 7 month it rested, and forever
remained mutinous.

prior to the accident,
that nipple,
rest in peace,
was especially erogenous,

it just soaked up the action
of hot chicks like a leaf
does sunlight.

within seconds of heated contact,
the sugars inside me began to boil
and i'd enjoy a shot of photosynthetic
energy within.

then i'd bloom into a scented and beautiful flower.

but now that it's no longer with me,
the late nipple,
my roots they are rotting,
my stalk is pest-infested,
and my crown is utterly discheveled.

and that other nipple is chaffed and uninspired
due to his extra inherrited work load,
so my flowers no more present,
thus the bees they never come around
no more, and

i sold my left nipple
along with my cyclic bouquet
to the that fat merchant.

Tom

Big Wall climber
San Luis Obispo CA
Jul 13, 2013 - 09:46pm PT
People still use Big Bros? WTF????

Chouinard stopped selling tube chocks in the 80's. The Big Bro is only slightly different and better.
Gal

Trad climber
a semi lucid consciousness
Jul 13, 2013 - 10:55pm PT
some wide thing at winslow wall... a slo melting 7ft slide... still have the mottled scar on the back of my shoulder... witnesses say it was hard to watch.... I may be exaggerating the 7ft... but i slid enough to scar...
Mungeclimber

Trad climber
Nothing creative to say
Topic Author's Reply - Jul 13, 2013 - 11:32pm PT
slo melting slide grimness bump
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