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Oplopanax
Mountain climber
The Deep Woods
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Apr 28, 2014 - 11:56am PT
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richross
Trad climber
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Apr 28, 2014 - 01:27pm PT
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Shockley's Ceiling
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looking sketchy there...
Social climber
Lassitude 33
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Apr 28, 2014 - 03:08pm PT
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West Crack Joshua Tree
Perhaps you meant Wise Crack on Cowboy Crags up and right of Saddle Rocks?
Also, Fote Hog on The Sentinel is a pretty good 2/3 pitch 5.6 in Josh.
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Dirtbag Wannabe
Mountain climber
Westminster, CO
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Apr 29, 2014 - 01:35pm PT
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I'll go Kain Route on Bugaboo Spire. Best quality rock I've climbed in terms of stickiness. Vast scenery with good bail options if/when the weather turns. Per the graphic above, there are no World Class Sport 5.6's. There is a lifetime's worth of World Class Alpine Trad 5.6's.
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alxj
Trad climber
Calgary, AB
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Oct 10, 2015 - 12:34pm PT
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TrundleBum said Only mentioned once at the bottom of a long list posted by the Doc.
'Thin Air' Cathedral Ledge ! <--- needs recognition
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
This is a cool thread. Lot's of great looking routes I have never heard of.
In a way it would be nice to not limit it to 5.6 specifically and instead say 'Best/most classic routes 5.7/5.8 and under'
Then we could include routes like the Whitney Gilman ridge on Cannon etc.
Totally agree. Did Thin Air while on a swing back east this summer to do Presidential Traverse. What a nice route and North Conway is a great spot to hang...sorry we didn't get to do any floating on the rivers.
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selfish man
Gym climber
Austin, TX
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Oct 10, 2015 - 12:36pm PT
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Nice thread, many ideas for my future projects.
If I had to give one answer, it would be the West Ridge of Conness.
Tree Route on Dome Rock and the 1st Flatiron come to mind too.
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jogill
climber
Colorado
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Oct 10, 2015 - 01:46pm PT
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I don't have photos, but the SW Ridge and Durrance Ridge routes on Symmetry Spire in the Tetons were among my early climbs in the mid 1950s, and I have very fond memories of them. Maybe there were a few steps of 5.7 but that's quibbling. Probably not world-class, however.
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SteveW
Trad climber
The state of confusion
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Oct 10, 2015 - 02:03pm PT
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Wow, what an awesome thread! I've been lucky enough to
do a bunch of the routes, and they certainly are stellar!!!
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storer
Trad climber
Golden, Colorado
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Oct 10, 2015 - 02:19pm PT
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Disneyland, Near Trapps, the Gunks. This route is so good it brings a smile to my face just thinking about it. Sit on the top, legs hanging over the edge, sling anchor to a tree behind, and if it's fall, the whole valley aflame with color, WOW!
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jbaker
Trad climber
Redwood City, CA
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Oct 10, 2015 - 07:04pm PT
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Locker - Are you thinking of Being There at Williamson? Nice climb. Too bad it is still closed.
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Inner City
Trad climber
East Bay
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Oct 12, 2015 - 09:21am PT
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A thread for the everyman....will give a plus 1 for Cosmic Wall. Great route, cool location. W. Ridge of Conness is awesome too as of course is Cathedral Peak.
5.6 is about all I can manage anymore...
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mike m
Trad climber
black hills
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Oct 12, 2015 - 03:51pm PT
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Did the First Flatiron last week. Was not that impressed. Overly runnout on the first pitch sorta so on the second and sgnificantly easier with good gear the rest of the way. Long route with good rock though. Best thing about it is it is 2 minutes from work to the parking lot.
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fairweather
Mountain climber
Roseville, CA
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Oct 12, 2015 - 04:51pm PT
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SE Arête of Baboquivari. Very remote location, good rock, and a great summit.
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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Oct 12, 2015 - 05:25pm PT
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Practically any 5.6 in the Gunks would measure up.
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mike m
Trad climber
black hills
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Oct 15, 2015 - 07:43pm PT
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The ConnDiagonal is As hard as they come for 5.6 durance isn't far behind. Pretty much all the 5.6's done before the 60's are garenteed to get your attention at some point. I heard the ellingwood arête in the winds is great. Even solar slab has about 30ft of climbing that is quite interesting
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grinder
Mountain climber
Kensington, NH
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Oct 16, 2015 - 09:33am PT
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SW Ridge of Delago Tower in the Dolomites is simply outrageous for its exposure and setting.
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