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fluffy
Trad climber
Colorado
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Mar 28, 2014 - 06:38pm PT
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Moose!
You're pro-festival and a gym rat??
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enjoimx
Trad climber
SLO
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Mar 28, 2014 - 06:51pm PT
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RRR is for noobs basically. It does seem pretty stupid. I definitely would t go to that.
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tradmanclimbs
Ice climber
Pomfert VT
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Mar 28, 2014 - 06:55pm PT
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If you really want to explore the power of SUCK check out an ice area post ice fest. In a cold dry year the climbs can be trashed for the rest of the season.
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overwatch
climber
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Mar 28, 2014 - 07:04pm PT
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what are you going to do? I guess the only solution is to walk farther and do longer routes or don't be there
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couchmaster
climber
pdx
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Mar 28, 2014 - 07:46pm PT
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As rants go, this is pretty damned good. Never done the red rocks thing, but having Ammon as a teacher for a day would be pretty damned cool. And at least they are all grouped up so that there should be places free and available?
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Flip Flop
Trad climber
Truckee, CA
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Mar 28, 2014 - 07:53pm PT
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Back in 1999 I stumbled on the Pfaltz Spring Climbers Festival in Germany. We were just looking for a farm with camping. As we drive up the valley we noticed that they had strung lanterns on various crags. Big drunken dancing hee-haw massive bonfire hoe down, deutscher-style. It was a lucky find on my birthday.
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Toker Villain
Big Wall climber
Toquerville, Utah
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Mar 28, 2014 - 08:20pm PT
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I can think of dozens of areas with prime climbing and not only no lines, but no climbers. It is the benefit of being a skilled off road driver, a trained geographer and always being interested in exploring for over a third of a century in a target rich environment of the canyon country.
Get off your ass or quit yer bitchin' shlt talkers!.
(I bet that german thing was a blast)
I'm very encouraged by stuff like the Facelift.
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rgold
Trad climber
Poughkeepsie, NY
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Mar 28, 2014 - 09:34pm PT
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Well, I've been there during one of the RR Rendezvous (not by choice) and, frankly, it didn't interfere at all with anything I wanted to do, which was longish trad routes, and not necessarily obscure ones either. As far as I could tell, the festival participants were clustered around short climbs near the road.
This was during the earlier years of the RRR, it may have become more obtrusive; that I can't say.
I think, by virtue of the era I come from and the things about climbing that attracted those of us who started then, that I'm as allergic to crowds as anyone. But like it or not, in the 56 years I've been at it, climbing has developed as a social activity often done by large usually convivial groups. This is especially true of bouldering and gym climbing, but sport climbing has also fostered the trend, since lines that do not depend on natural protection opportunities can be packed in parallel, putting large numbers of climbing teams together in close proximity.
The social scene attracts people who would not have been drawn to climbing in the old days, and their interest in getting together with others fuels the process of festival creation. Its all part of the evolution of the sport, and there is nothing we sometimes crabby old farts (and throwback young farts) can or should do about it, other than remember to stay away as much as possible from things we don't like, and be thankful for the fact that the gravitational inertia of the crowds keeps them away from a multitude of locales that require a bit more effort to get to, the kind of effort we grew up making anyway.
Those of us who enjoy using the lastest improvements in gear should remember that it is the increased climbing population that makes such things possible. So rack up with Totem cams, the latest Goretex, a fancy belay/rappel device, and the nth iteration of technical climbing shoes, walk a little further---perhaps a touch off the beaten track---and all will be well.
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fluffy
Trad climber
Colorado
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Mar 28, 2014 - 09:35pm PT
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Those of us who enjoy using the lastest improvements in gear should remember that it is the increased climbing population that makes such things possible.
not really. specious reasoning.
you're assuming that just because there are more people buying that sh#t it wouldn't have been designed without them.
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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Mar 28, 2014 - 09:42pm PT
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Yeah, Balch fest kicked Ass! And rather than closing off areas to climbers, it opened one up to them. A perfect introduction to area! Lots of climbing, good will, camaradrie and just fun!
There has to be a formula for this, maybe climbing events can't be above a certain size? Commercial sponsorship doesn't seem real great, either... Unless it's a no strings gift, rather than an attempt sell stuff on site or otherwise promote the sponsor over the event (?)
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the albatross
Gym climber
Flagstaff
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Mar 28, 2014 - 09:44pm PT
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TV wrote:
I can think of dozens of areas with prime climbing and not only no lines, but no climbers. It is the benefit of being a skilled off road driver, a trained geographer and always being interested in exploring for over a third of a century in a target rich environment of the canyon country.
Amen... headed out the door for a little romp in the sand box.
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micronut
Trad climber
Fresno/Clovis, ca
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Mar 28, 2014 - 10:04pm PT
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Elcapinyoaz said BALCH FEST was "Poison Oak Filled Anarchy."
Awesome. That made my day.
Maybe its because it doesn't cost anything, gives you a rash and makes you sore for seven weeks. You think TECNU might sponsor a band for next year?
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okie
Trad climber
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Mar 28, 2014 - 10:24pm PT
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Balch Fest was great.
I like the Fall Gathering at Quartz Mtn. in Oklahoma. Got to reconnect with some folks I hadn't seen in over 30 years. Nice small group party/climb/party/climb formula but the Quartz runouts are not recommended on a hangover.
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goatboy smellz
climber
लघिमा
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Mar 28, 2014 - 10:26pm PT
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I thought all you Californias loved festivals?
It just looks so..... festive.
Camp Four on the Floor festival.
Joshua Festivus Tree
Good luck ElCap I'm sure you will find your happy place.
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MisterE
climber
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Mar 28, 2014 - 10:30pm PT
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Awesome troll, Will.
Really astute stuff that tugs at our existential dichotomy.
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Elcapinyoazz
Social climber
Joshua Tree
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 28, 2014 - 10:33pm PT
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^^^
Goatboy, even though those are some nice looking young gentlemen, this isn't really the place to share your vacation photos.
If anyone one should care about this kind of thing, it's you Goaty. Guys struggling on 5.8 can't really afford to have all the n00b crags stacked with festival go-ers.
Seamstress knows what's up. Mounties, dirty Mounties.
SOLITUDE!
Adventure!
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goatboy smellz
climber
लघिमा
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Mar 28, 2014 - 10:59pm PT
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Let us know when you are coming back
to the real western frontier to
toprope some 5.9's ElCap.
If you were really alpha you would go ahead
to Red Rocks and assert your dominance like
a real man instead of whining like a bitch online.
Bring your Boombox (do you still have one)
along with your tapes (still have those) of
AC/DC, Black Sabbath, and Stevie Wonder to blast
at the crags.
Scare those noob f*#kers off with attitude and don't
forget to wear lycra and scream like a cuckold when
you send your proj.
[/sarcasm smileyface]
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Todd Eastman
climber
Bellingham, WA
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Mar 28, 2014 - 11:10pm PT
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I just ask the organizers to take into account the impacts their events have on the regular climbing community...
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HighDesertDJ
Trad climber
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Mar 28, 2014 - 11:20pm PT
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Holy curmudgeon thread, Batman.
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rgold
Trad climber
Poughkeepsie, NY
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Mar 29, 2014 - 12:02am PT
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you're assuming that just because there are more people buying that sh#t it wouldn't have been designed without them.
Well, to some extent yes, although the contorted logic of your sentence is not something I'd ever use. I'm assuming that financial incentives help motivate potential designers, and the more people who are interested in designing things, the more likely it is that someone will design something useful. But it isn't simply about design, but also about effective manufacturing that produces a high-quality product and a decent profit for the designer.
So, for both recruitment of designers and production of their ideas, you need to have an appropriately-sized markets, and the increase in climbing participants, brought about at least partially by changes in the culture of climbing, is surely responsible, if not for the growth itself, then at least for the rate of growth.
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