End the Climbing "Festivals"

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Messages 21 - 40 of total 103 in this topic << First  |  < Previous  |  Show All  |  Next >  |  Last >>
overwatch

climber
Mar 28, 2014 - 04:46pm PT
Johnny flathat...ha! Like all good trolls it is based in truth
GDavis

Social climber
SOL CAL
Mar 28, 2014 - 04:49pm PT
I never understood why any climber would want to go to one these things.


I guess people really love top roping.
fluffy

Trad climber
Colorado
Mar 28, 2014 - 05:21pm PT
Man fu ck a festival. Especially anything to do with hoardes of n00bs. Based purely on greed at the expense of everyone else.

You want to be social go to a gym. Or a pub.
moosedrool

climber
lost, far away from Poland
Mar 28, 2014 - 05:23pm PT
Fluffy, get off my back!!!

lol

Moose
salad

Big Wall climber
Mar 28, 2014 - 06:27pm PT
everyone is just hoping to hook up and get lucky.
fluffy

Trad climber
Colorado
Mar 28, 2014 - 06:38pm PT
Moose!

You're pro-festival and a gym rat??
enjoimx

Trad climber
SLO
Mar 28, 2014 - 06:51pm PT
RRR is for noobs basically. It does seem pretty stupid. I definitely would t go to that.
tradmanclimbs

Ice climber
Pomfert VT
Mar 28, 2014 - 06:55pm PT
If you really want to explore the power of SUCK check out an ice area post ice fest. In a cold dry year the climbs can be trashed for the rest of the season.
overwatch

climber
Mar 28, 2014 - 07:04pm PT
what are you going to do? I guess the only solution is to walk farther and do longer routes or don't be there
moosedrool

climber
lost, far away from Poland
Mar 28, 2014 - 07:07pm PT
Moose!

You're pro-festival and a gym rat??

You forgot the n00b part.

Guilty on all accounts.

Please don't hurt me.

lol

Moose
couchmaster

climber
pdx
Mar 28, 2014 - 07:46pm PT
As rants go, this is pretty damned good. Never done the red rocks thing, but having Ammon as a teacher for a day would be pretty damned cool. And at least they are all grouped up so that there should be places free and available?
Flip Flop

Trad climber
Truckee, CA
Mar 28, 2014 - 07:53pm PT
Back in 1999 I stumbled on the Pfaltz Spring Climbers Festival in Germany. We were just looking for a farm with camping. As we drive up the valley we noticed that they had strung lanterns on various crags. Big drunken dancing hee-haw massive bonfire hoe down, deutscher-style. It was a lucky find on my birthday.
Toker Villain

Big Wall climber
Toquerville, Utah
Mar 28, 2014 - 08:20pm PT
I can think of dozens of areas with prime climbing and not only no lines, but no climbers. It is the benefit of being a skilled off road driver, a trained geographer and always being interested in exploring for over a third of a century in a target rich environment of the canyon country.


Get off your ass or quit yer bitchin' shlt talkers!.
(I bet that german thing was a blast)

I'm very encouraged by stuff like the Facelift.
rgold

Trad climber
Poughkeepsie, NY
Mar 28, 2014 - 09:34pm PT
Well, I've been there during one of the RR Rendezvous (not by choice) and, frankly, it didn't interfere at all with anything I wanted to do, which was longish trad routes, and not necessarily obscure ones either. As far as I could tell, the festival participants were clustered around short climbs near the road.

This was during the earlier years of the RRR, it may have become more obtrusive; that I can't say.

I think, by virtue of the era I come from and the things about climbing that attracted those of us who started then, that I'm as allergic to crowds as anyone. But like it or not, in the 56 years I've been at it, climbing has developed as a social activity often done by large usually convivial groups. This is especially true of bouldering and gym climbing, but sport climbing has also fostered the trend, since lines that do not depend on natural protection opportunities can be packed in parallel, putting large numbers of climbing teams together in close proximity.

The social scene attracts people who would not have been drawn to climbing in the old days, and their interest in getting together with others fuels the process of festival creation. Its all part of the evolution of the sport, and there is nothing we sometimes crabby old farts (and throwback young farts) can or should do about it, other than remember to stay away as much as possible from things we don't like, and be thankful for the fact that the gravitational inertia of the crowds keeps them away from a multitude of locales that require a bit more effort to get to, the kind of effort we grew up making anyway.

Those of us who enjoy using the lastest improvements in gear should remember that it is the increased climbing population that makes such things possible. So rack up with Totem cams, the latest Goretex, a fancy belay/rappel device, and the nth iteration of technical climbing shoes, walk a little further---perhaps a touch off the beaten track---and all will be well.
fluffy

Trad climber
Colorado
Mar 28, 2014 - 09:35pm PT
Those of us who enjoy using the lastest improvements in gear should remember that it is the increased climbing population that makes such things possible.

not really. specious reasoning.

you're assuming that just because there are more people buying that sh#t it wouldn't have been designed without them.
Jaybro

Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
Mar 28, 2014 - 09:42pm PT
Yeah, Balch fest kicked Ass! And rather than closing off areas to climbers, it opened one up to them. A perfect introduction to area! Lots of climbing, good will, camaradrie and just fun!

There has to be a formula for this, maybe climbing events can't be above a certain size? Commercial sponsorship doesn't seem real great, either... Unless it's a no strings gift, rather than an attempt sell stuff on site or otherwise promote the sponsor over the event (?)
the albatross

Gym climber
Flagstaff
Mar 28, 2014 - 09:44pm PT
TV wrote:

I can think of dozens of areas with prime climbing and not only no lines, but no climbers. It is the benefit of being a skilled off road driver, a trained geographer and always being interested in exploring for over a third of a century in a target rich environment of the canyon country.

Amen... headed out the door for a little romp in the sand box.
micronut

Trad climber
Fresno/Clovis, ca
Mar 28, 2014 - 10:04pm PT
Elcapinyoaz said BALCH FEST was "Poison Oak Filled Anarchy."

Awesome. That made my day.

Maybe its because it doesn't cost anything, gives you a rash and makes you sore for seven weeks. You think TECNU might sponsor a band for next year?
okie

Trad climber
Mar 28, 2014 - 10:24pm PT
Balch Fest was great.

I like the Fall Gathering at Quartz Mtn. in Oklahoma. Got to reconnect with some folks I hadn't seen in over 30 years. Nice small group party/climb/party/climb formula but the Quartz runouts are not recommended on a hangover.
goatboy smellz

climber
लघिमा
Mar 28, 2014 - 10:26pm PT
I thought all you Californias loved festivals?
It just looks so..... festive.


Camp Four on the Floor festival.



Joshua Festivus Tree


Good luck ElCap I'm sure you will find your happy place.

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