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Messages 61 - 80 of total 85 in this topic << First  |  < Previous  |  Show All  |  Next >  |  Last >>
GDavis

Social climber
SOL CAL
Feb 21, 2014 - 12:31am PT
Wonderful!
E Robinson

climber
Salinas, CA
Feb 21, 2014 - 12:32am PT
Very cool! Story, pics, and all.
Kalimon

Social climber
Ridgway, CO
Feb 21, 2014 - 12:35am PT
Thanks for sharing your photos BG . . . must be more where that came from.
KP Ariza

climber
SCC
Feb 21, 2014 - 02:48am PT
This is what this sight was meant to be about I'll bet.

Awesome, thanks!
Clint Cummins

Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
Feb 21, 2014 - 03:27am PT
Thanks for dusting off the slides, Bob.
Those really make it real.
Nice Backdrop!
Cole

Trad climber
los angeles
Feb 21, 2014 - 03:40am PT
Awesome story Scott!! Really looking forward to heading out to Section 6 again with you soon. Hit me up when you're in town!
RyanD

climber
Squamish
Feb 21, 2014 - 04:35am PT



KP Ariza

climber
SCC

Feb 20, 2014 - 11:48pm PT
This is what this sight was meant to be about I'll bet.

Awesome, thanks!


+1 fukkin rights

RP3

Big Wall climber
Sonora
Feb 21, 2014 - 03:37pm PT
Those photos are fantastic. Material like this is what keeps me coming back to ST. Thanks!
BG

Trad climber
JTree & Idyllwild
Feb 21, 2014 - 11:15pm PT
Thanks for dusting off the slides, Bob.
Those really make it real.
Nice Backdrop!

Thanks Clint, those are some great topo photos you posted!
Vitaliy M.

Mountain climber
San Francisco
Feb 22, 2014 - 12:18am PT
Great post. A few days ago I watched the historic film about the first ascent of that face. Reading about the FFA makes me want to go climb it some day myself. Beautiful looking granite up there. From far at least...
Fritz

Trad climber
Choss Creek, ID
Feb 22, 2014 - 01:01am PT
Coz & BG! Thank you for taking the time to share this classic Yosemite history story!

BG! Your old story about the historic ascent is great writing!
ß Î Ø T Ç H

Boulder climber
extraordinaire
Feb 22, 2014 - 01:25am PT
Royal Robbins solos the first ascent of In Cold Blood on Sentinel’s West Face in two days. He places eight bolts. This is the first time a new route of this length has been soloed in Yosemite.
courtesy of http://yosemiteclimbing.org/content/short-history-yosemite-rock-climbing
Clint Cummins

Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
Feb 22, 2014 - 02:43am PT
Here's the entry for In Cold Blood in the 1971 AAJ:

In Cold Blood, West Face of Sentinel Rock. The renowned American
authority on mountaineering, Curtis W. Casewit. says, “Solo climbing is
insanity.” And Mr. Casewit, of course, is an honorable man. I love to read
such fatuous remarks, coming as they invariably do, from the ignorant. It
brings back the good old days when climbers were pariahs, when climbing
was not “in”, when there was no room in the game for parasites of Mr.
Casewit’s stamp. But now the enemy is within the gates. I confess to
lunacy according to Mr. Casewit’s ah ... “ standards”. I soloed a new route
on the west face of Sentinel last May, a route with some intriguing
sections, a bit easier than the Frost-Chouinard line. I started from the
Valley early in the morning of May 10 and returned there after dark the
next day. The ascent involved two tension traverses, 8 bolts, a few rurps,
and the following bongs: 2 2-inch, 2 2.5-inch. and a 3-inch. One third of
the placements were chocks. These are critical in a couple of sections of
shaky rock. It was a surprise to find the upper wall split by a thin crack
(Rageous Fortune Crack) which took wired chocks as if it had been made
for them. An unprotected jam-crack left me a little shaky but led nicely to
a chimney and an easy way out. The route starts up a dihedral 75 feet
south of the regular west-face route and needs little description, but go left
at the top of Rageous Fortune Crack. At one point in the middle of the
route, some fine rope work is useful in passing over the coarse granite. In
October Egon and Johanna Marte and I made the second ascent.

ROYAL ROBBINS

from
http://c498469.r69.cf2.rackcdn.com/1971/usa1971_325-381.pdf
Big Mike

Trad climber
BC
Feb 22, 2014 - 02:58am PT
Wicked photos BG! Thanks!! I always love your topos clint!!
BG

Trad climber
JTree & Idyllwild
Feb 23, 2014 - 01:14am PT
photo by bob gaines
photo by bob gaines
Credit: BG
view from the top of the west face
bhilden

Trad climber
Mountain View, CA/Boulder, CO
Feb 23, 2014 - 02:11am PT
Nice story! Has anybody freed the original line you all attempted in 1987?
phylp

Trad climber
Millbrae, CA
Feb 23, 2014 - 08:41am PT
Many thanks to Scott and BG for the excellent stories. Clint, the photo topo is great.
Vitaliy M.

Mountain climber
San Francisco
Feb 27, 2014 - 01:15pm PT
Old AAJs have some really interesting things.Piece written by TM Herbert regarding the 2nd ascent of The Wall of Morning Light is priceless.

Comment regarding the FA of Charlotte Dome's S Face is great too. They thought it was gonna stay an obscure route. :)
Brian in SLC

Social climber
Salt Lake City, UT
Feb 27, 2014 - 03:49pm PT
Great story. Thanks!
Bruce Morris

Social climber
Belmont, California
Feb 27, 2014 - 04:13pm PT
I think this very informative string by SC emphasizes why there should be a new written guide to Yosemite climbs in a book format because that's the only way you'll be able to visually compare and contrast adjacent routes and areas with your eyes all at once. Downloading the topo of an individual route is fine if all you want is the info needed to do that route. But a guidebook lets you compare adjacent routes instantly. A PC, iMac or iPhone are different mediums than a book and do different things, some of them better than a guidebook, but some others not as well.

With all of Clint's larger than life photos, it looks like such a project is in good hands and well underway to completion. A giant totally accurate compendium of Yosemite climbs as hard as it is to write would certainly sell well. A coffee-table Yo guidebook anyone? Certainly would give you better sense of the historical progression of routes.
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