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Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
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Feb 21, 2014 - 03:27am PT
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Thanks for dusting off the slides, Bob.
Those really make it real.
Nice Backdrop!
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Cole
Trad climber
los angeles
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Feb 21, 2014 - 03:40am PT
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Awesome story Scott!! Really looking forward to heading out to Section 6 again with you soon. Hit me up when you're in town!
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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Feb 21, 2014 - 04:35am PT
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KP Ariza
climber
SCC
Feb 20, 2014 - 11:48pm PT
This is what this sight was meant to be about I'll bet.
Awesome, thanks!
+1 fukkin rights
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RP3
Big Wall climber
Sonora
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Feb 21, 2014 - 03:37pm PT
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Those photos are fantastic. Material like this is what keeps me coming back to ST. Thanks!
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BG
Trad climber
JTree & Idyllwild
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Feb 21, 2014 - 11:15pm PT
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Thanks for dusting off the slides, Bob.
Those really make it real.
Nice Backdrop!
Thanks Clint, those are some great topo photos you posted!
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Vitaliy M.
Mountain climber
San Francisco
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Feb 22, 2014 - 12:18am PT
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Great post. A few days ago I watched the historic film about the first ascent of that face. Reading about the FFA makes me want to go climb it some day myself. Beautiful looking granite up there. From far at least...
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Fritz
Trad climber
Choss Creek, ID
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Feb 22, 2014 - 01:01am PT
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Coz & BG! Thank you for taking the time to share this classic Yosemite history story!
BG! Your old story about the historic ascent is great writing!
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Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
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Feb 22, 2014 - 02:43am PT
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Here's the entry for In Cold Blood in the 1971 AAJ:
In Cold Blood, West Face of Sentinel Rock. The renowned American
authority on mountaineering, Curtis W. Casewit. says, “Solo climbing is
insanity.” And Mr. Casewit, of course, is an honorable man. I love to read
such fatuous remarks, coming as they invariably do, from the ignorant. It
brings back the good old days when climbers were pariahs, when climbing
was not “in”, when there was no room in the game for parasites of Mr.
Casewit’s stamp. But now the enemy is within the gates. I confess to
lunacy according to Mr. Casewit’s ah ... “ standards”. I soloed a new route
on the west face of Sentinel last May, a route with some intriguing
sections, a bit easier than the Frost-Chouinard line. I started from the
Valley early in the morning of May 10 and returned there after dark the
next day. The ascent involved two tension traverses, 8 bolts, a few rurps,
and the following bongs: 2 2-inch, 2 2.5-inch. and a 3-inch. One third of
the placements were chocks. These are critical in a couple of sections of
shaky rock. It was a surprise to find the upper wall split by a thin crack
(Rageous Fortune Crack) which took wired chocks as if it had been made
for them. An unprotected jam-crack left me a little shaky but led nicely to
a chimney and an easy way out. The route starts up a dihedral 75 feet
south of the regular west-face route and needs little description, but go left
at the top of Rageous Fortune Crack. At one point in the middle of the
route, some fine rope work is useful in passing over the coarse granite. In
October Egon and Johanna Marte and I made the second ascent.
ROYAL ROBBINS
from
http://c498469.r69.cf2.rackcdn.com/1971/usa1971_325-381.pdf
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Feb 22, 2014 - 02:58am PT
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Wicked photos BG! Thanks!! I always love your topos clint!!
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BG
Trad climber
JTree & Idyllwild
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Feb 23, 2014 - 01:14am PT
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view from the top of the west face
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bhilden
Trad climber
Mountain View, CA/Boulder, CO
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Feb 23, 2014 - 02:11am PT
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Nice story! Has anybody freed the original line you all attempted in 1987?
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phylp
Trad climber
Millbrae, CA
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Feb 23, 2014 - 08:41am PT
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Many thanks to Scott and BG for the excellent stories. Clint, the photo topo is great.
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Vitaliy M.
Mountain climber
San Francisco
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Feb 27, 2014 - 01:15pm PT
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Old AAJs have some really interesting things.Piece written by TM Herbert regarding the 2nd ascent of The Wall of Morning Light is priceless.
Comment regarding the FA of Charlotte Dome's S Face is great too. They thought it was gonna stay an obscure route. :)
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Brian in SLC
Social climber
Salt Lake City, UT
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Feb 27, 2014 - 03:49pm PT
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Great story. Thanks!
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Bruce Morris
Social climber
Belmont, California
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Feb 27, 2014 - 04:13pm PT
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I think this very informative string by SC emphasizes why there should be a new written guide to Yosemite climbs in a book format because that's the only way you'll be able to visually compare and contrast adjacent routes and areas with your eyes all at once. Downloading the topo of an individual route is fine if all you want is the info needed to do that route. But a guidebook lets you compare adjacent routes instantly. A PC, iMac or iPhone are different mediums than a book and do different things, some of them better than a guidebook, but some others not as well.
With all of Clint's larger than life photos, it looks like such a project is in good hands and well underway to completion. A giant totally accurate compendium of Yosemite climbs as hard as it is to write would certainly sell well. A coffee-table Yo guidebook anyone? Certainly would give you better sense of the historical progression of routes.
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Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
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Feb 27, 2014 - 04:28pm PT
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Bruce,
I enjoy making the overlays (thanks mostly to xRez and GIMP),
but I don't have any specific plans to make a book with them.
Some of them work on a computer screen a lot better than they would in a book -
the Sentinel West Face (10" x 31") and Ho Chi Minh Trail (6.5" x 30") overlays are very tall and narrow.
Easy to scroll up and down on the web, but they would have a very
reduced width in a book that would fit on a bookshelf.
(Kris Solem made this point earlier when I posted a huge photo overlay for some Voodoo Dome routes in the Needles - that amount of detail doesn't fit into a 6" x 9" guidebook; it might not fit into a coffee table book, either).
The current book is topos (black and white line drawings) and I'm trying not to get too distracted! :-)
But there will be some overlay photos for locating things.
It hasn't been decided yet if they will be in color, but it's getting cheaper to use color and I struggled to find things in the previous black and white overlays.
One possibility would be to put the overlays in a PDF or similar that could be viewed on a smartphone. Some people take their phones on climbs with PDFs to look stuff up if needed. "Just don't call me." :-) "Dang it, Clint, your overlay guess was way off and now we're stuck!!!"
Ed had a cool idea of some kind of overlays integrated with an xRez type zoom-in system. I.e. you select the route(s) you want overlaid, then zoom in to see more rock detail. The line width stays the same, so the line obscures less rock as you zoom in. Maybe a "coffee table" style screen?
"Armchair mountaineering" or "shadow climbing" (my old friend Dan Nguyen taught me that last term, like "shadow boxing").
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Bruce Morris
Social climber
Belmont, California
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Feb 28, 2014 - 02:05am PT
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Would be a money maker if you could find a cheap way of getting a big color coffee table Yo guide printed in the States or elsewhere (China!). Nice to make it a full multimedia production with continuously updated interactive links to topo pdfs and giant wall pics. Videos taken on the routes would be hot too. That way you could have all the advantages of a book and the advantages of Internet based information reinforcing one another.
Whole lot of work!
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Bruce Morris
Social climber
Belmont, California
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Feb 28, 2014 - 04:49pm PT
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To clarify my statement (woke up late with a headache!):
A big coffee-table text/graphics/image book linked to (and supported by) continuously updated online resources at a site with downloadable topos in pdf format and larger images of walls and areas too big for the printed medium all with gps coordinates you could access in the field from a smart phone. Of course, at home from a PC or Mac too.
A lot of big history and art books from publishers like Oxford University Press and eminent historians like Anthony Beevor are like that right now. More information and videos at the web site that didn't appear in the book.
Again, no easy project, but given current technology very do-able. Trip reports and topo updates too. The book could serve as a front for a sort of mini-Yosemite climbing industry. What about some funding from the AAC?
Also, lots of online videos linked to individual climbs to illustrate cruxes and belays. Even mo' work!
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WBraun
climber
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Feb 28, 2014 - 05:10pm PT
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A coffee table guide book would definitely be DA BOMB!!!
Lot's of pictures, photos and history, along with
... some deli history slander thrown in for comedy ......
:)
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