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kennyt
Trad climber
Oregon
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Topic Author's Original Post - Feb 18, 2014 - 01:37pm PT
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Is anyone here form the Eugene area? I was wondering about any local crags in the area.
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Reilly
Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
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Feb 18, 2014 - 01:40pm PT
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Buy a trowel.
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kennyt
Trad climber
Oregon
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 18, 2014 - 01:42pm PT
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Dan,
I saw the basalt it's skinners butte not to impressive.
Reilly I'm an experienced troweler and brusher
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kennyt
Trad climber
Oregon
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 18, 2014 - 01:47pm PT
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That could help the experience
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Reilly
Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
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Feb 18, 2014 - 02:04pm PT
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There are plenty of good belayers up there...just swing by the farmers' market on Saturday.
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A-Train
climber
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Feb 18, 2014 - 02:05pm PT
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The closest good rock climbing is Smith Rock. Skinner Butte is not so bad for a day or two, if it's not soaking wet.
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Charlie D.
Trad climber
Western Slope, Tahoe Sierra
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Feb 18, 2014 - 03:05pm PT
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"The Columns" are right downtown, good splitter cracks. If you're in town you can easily ride your bike over.........if you plan on staying long get fenders for that bike, it's wet a lot there in Eugene. Great town, love the people in the PNW, I just don't care for their weather west of the Cascades. If you don't like hippies you won't like Eugene.
Charlie D.
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clarkolator
climber
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Feb 18, 2014 - 07:04pm PT
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I'm biased, I grew up there. But I love the place!
The columns is great. You can do so much crack climbing in so little time. Nice people, too.
CharlieD's right about the weather, you may have to take up reading Russian literature.
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Plaidman
Trad climber
South Slope of Mt. Tabor, Portland, Oregon, USA
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Feb 18, 2014 - 08:26pm PT
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You gotta go the Callahan's!
http://www.mountainproject.com/v/the-callahans/106279271
Crazy off the hook sandstone.
Really should be considered as a destination.
I'll give ya a tour if ya like.
Also Wolf Rock and the Turkey Monster should looked at.
Plaid
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speelyei
Trad climber
Mohave County Arizona
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Feb 18, 2014 - 10:03pm PT
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Menagerie Wilderness
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clarkolator
climber
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Feb 18, 2014 - 10:19pm PT
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Or, closer to home, Coburg Caves and the Seventh Wonder of Lane County, Penis Rock. People come from miles to see it.
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Darwin
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Feb 18, 2014 - 11:00pm PT
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I would love (aka sell my soul) to have Skinner Butte in my backyard. I always assume it rains less in Eugene than Seattle. It is probably further to Smith(welded tuff, he he he) than to e.g. Index(granite)
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kennyt
Trad climber
Oregon
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 18, 2014 - 11:41pm PT
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I've been here a couple months and it just rains.
Plaid, callahans looks cool I definitely want to check that out.
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Dr.Sprock
Boulder climber
I'm James Brown, Bi-atch!
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Feb 19, 2014 - 12:57am PT
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weather is the big lie, helps keep the people out, not much worse than sacramento in the wintertime, but air quality is bad in the summertime, better than when they used to burn the fields and use wigwam sawdust burners which my uncle sold out of Steel Structures/Eugene Truck & Machine along the Willamette which is now the home of the water company,
downtown was nice back when they had 36,000 people, now it is tail lights all the way down 6th st to the Veneta fairgrounds,
plenty of buildings to climb, cops won't do anything, they let skate board freaks smoke weed on the court house steps every saturday, so wtf, over?
jus sayin...
remember, Sparks and Turner build a better burner...
(2 types, ribs on the inside, ribs on the outside)
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neebee
Social climber
calif/texas
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Feb 19, 2014 - 04:30am PT
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hey there, say, kenny t... hope you find just the right spots, there...
:)
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TwistedCrank
climber
Bungwater Hollow, Ida-ho
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Feb 19, 2014 - 10:37am PT
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I don't know about climbing, but every time I've been to Eugene I've noticed that standing on the corner with a cardboard sign appears to be a growth industry in that town.
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Dr.Sprock
Boulder climber
I'm James Brown, Bi-atch!
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Feb 19, 2014 - 10:49am PT
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those are the people Kesey kicked out,
anarchy types,
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Charlie D.
Trad climber
Western Slope, Tahoe Sierra
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Feb 19, 2014 - 12:27pm PT
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not much worse than sacramento
LOL............let's see 21" vs. 51" average yearly rainfall of Sac. town vs. Eugene, Oregon.....just a mere 30" difference which is what we get up in the Trench of Highway 50!
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ydpl8s
Trad climber
Santa Monica, California
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Feb 19, 2014 - 12:36pm PT
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Last time I was in Eugene, we drove about 3 hrs to climb this - Three Fingered Jack - Just make a trip to Smith
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Texplorer
Trad climber
Sacramento
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Feb 19, 2014 - 02:04pm PT
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Yes, as mentioned. Not a lot close to Eugene.
The columns are convenient and fun but very limited.
Flagstone is a fun little (now overbolted) sport area about an hour up in the forest. There is a small old guidebook for this place. Get good directions.
Smith is 3-4 hours and as mentioned above the best bet for weekend cragging.
Moolack is now out of the bag and is another crag in the forest. When I last was there it was an absolutely no bolt area (including anchors) but has some high quality basalt trad climbing.
And of course there are the cascade volcanoes.
Enjoy
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