The man who made Sharma Smarma!!


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Sport climber
Sonora Ca
Feb 17, 2014 - 10:44am PT
Mr. Clean white courtesy phone, Mr. Clean?

Trad climber
Top of the Mountain Mun
Feb 17, 2014 - 10:56am PT
I believe one has to acknowledge Pacific Edge's Tom Davis and Diane Russell, who have mentored a young Chris and many other climbers, including yours truly. Their stoke for the sport is contagious. They make climbing fun, accessible and safe. Cheers to these two.


Trad climber
Feb 17, 2014 - 12:16pm PT
Maybe I am missing some inside joke here, but I don't get why everyone slags Cosgrove down for his grammar etc.
FYI this is a forum not an english class. After working at a daily newspaper for nearly 20 years I can honestly say I have seen some of the worst Photoshop 'jobs'on ST along with laughable sentence structure from others than him.

Ice climber
Pomfert VT
Feb 17, 2014 - 12:31pm PT
anyone who slags on grammer on thease blogs is grasping @ straws and usually loseing an argument. the point of this whole process is raw and fast. bound to be full of typos..
Vitaliy M.

Mountain climber
San Francisco
Feb 17, 2014 - 12:37pm PT
One thing for sure, is that Honnold does get a lot of people debating and dropping their job after he soloed something. Attention from people is what his sponsors want. Coz, you do participate in it by continuing to talk about him. This attention does pay for his bills and possibly also encourage him to solo harder stuff. No one can argue that it seems bad ass to public, and humans are partly controlled by their ego and want attention. I hope his ego is tiny and he is not driven by it at all. And even if he is not driven by it I hope he does stop the big solo outings by choice and not by chance, which is always there when you do so much soloing it becomes a game of statistics. In the same time I hope he does go for his dreams and passions, lives a long life and is happy with it in the end. If he is willing to take his chances, that is his choice and I respect it (even though he shouldn't give a f*** about what I, you, him/her and what they think, his life his choices). I am sure most of the people on this forum wish him well, but have different ways of expressing their concerns.

Social climber
Los Angeles currently St. Antonin, France
Feb 17, 2014 - 01:05pm PT
I always wonder where Honnold got the motivation to do his stuff. Did someone school him on the exploits of the former soloists, dropping a seed about how Bachar and Croft and rest were the most bad ass, back when Alex was just a youngin in the gym in Sacto? I mean he knows the history and it obviously made an impact on him. Perhaps we're all too blame a little bit for glorifying the "stone masters" and their accomplishments. When i started climbing i too thought the Bachar-Yerian was the end all be all and was star struck by the tales of Johnny Rock and the rest. Of course it didn't take long to realize I didn't have the skill or the balls to do that stuff.

Social climber
Black Butte, Idaho
Topic Author's Reply - Feb 17, 2014 - 02:38pm PT
I think these two videos would be worth watching to anyone wanting to know more about the inner workings of Honnolds solos...

Especially this second one with Croft
The Alpine

Feb 17, 2014 - 02:42pm PT
I always that Josh Lowell made Sharma Sharma.

Feb 17, 2014 - 04:43pm PT
it's always a bit sad when those sitting in old folks homes project either their dreams or their nightmares onto the lives of those doing the living.

'cause, as has always been and will always be the case, the only guy/gal who knows whether or not their 2500' long and 12' girthed "dick" is filled with silicone and fear, is too busy working it to comment...

Gym climber
Feb 17, 2014 - 05:16pm PT


I'm laid up at the moment, that's why I'm here practicing my bad writing skills. LOL


If telling Alex, I don't think, he's solid on Sendero, and he's probably gonna crater, if he keeps it up, is encouraging him, well, I don't agree with you there.

Bachar, was terribly attached to his external ego, it killed him to fall out of the lime-light. Example, one day after soloing with John in JT, a few months before he died. We walked into Coyote Corner, to get something, can't remember what, and of course there was a cute girl behind the counter, and we where being, creepy old guys, and flirting with her. She looks down at our hands and asked," are you guys climbers?"

I started laughing and claimed, "We just started," but, JB get's furious and runs over and grabs the video on the display, John Bacher, The Man, The Myth and the Legend, throws it on the counter and declares, "that's me." She looks up at me and I shamefully admit, "It's true" and we walk out, proving once again, we have no game.

Anyway, in my day we wouldn't let people photograph us soloing, it was considered bad style, but John, just rolled with it and ended up on the cover of Life Magazine.

Soon everyone who wanted to be someone, was posing rope-less for the camera.

Now, I'm not saying, fame had anything to do with JB or Alex soloing, I'm sure they would be doing it anyway, camera or not. But it's a quick and deadly road to fame, if you can't keep up with the Big Boys, like Tommy C or Chris S.

Anyway, it's pretty funny how this thread has turn into attack on my grammar and Alex soloing... So, be the Taco...

Trad climber
Bay Area
Feb 18, 2014 - 12:33pm PT
I believe one has to acknowledge Pacific Edge's Tom Davis and Diane Russell, who have mentored a young Chris and many other climbers, including yours truly. Their stoke for the sport is contagious. They make climbing fun, accessible and safe. Cheers to these two.
And Peter Carrick.

I recall when Sharma first showed up at Pac Edge. Perhaps he was 12 or 13? He was almost instantly climbing way above his age and experience. Chris and Alex and others have a natural gift for climbing in the 99.999 percentile.
A lot of their excellence also comes from living the sport. Think of Kauk, Bachar, Bard in the 70s and 80's. "Walking up" routes that most of us we working hard at while on belay.
This is what they do. Nearly all that they do. When they do have to ask the question "can I do this route today?", they've got the ingrained thought and "feeling" processes to reach a safe conclusion.

We "mortals" cannot compare our experiences to theirs. Those who try to emulate someone like Alex or JB do so at their peril. (no, I don't believe they are God-like nor that God has anything to do with their success)
Vitaliy M.

Mountain climber
San Francisco
Feb 18, 2014 - 01:02pm PT
It is cool to be cool and majority of humans want to seem cool to others. Our ego is a disease and a blessing in the same time.

Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
Feb 18, 2014 - 01:20pm PT
(OT) Power Point is a Very cool climb and I thank Scott for pointing us toward it to do an early ascent!
Jay-posting from a math classroom so I don't have ta spell fer shrit!-bro

Social climber
Joshua Tree
Feb 18, 2014 - 01:27pm PT
Power Point..I remember talking to an infrequent taco poster, valley hardman right after he and his partner made an attempt and bailed. Both these climbers have freed El Cap, btw. Came down because they had bad gear beta, were up there with like one piece bigger than a blue camalot and there's a pitch (11a? IIRC) that's more or less 3.5-4" for the whole pitch.

They said it looked fantastic and was awesome up that point. I still haven't gone up there, heard the traverse pitch is reachy and runout at the crux.

Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
Feb 18, 2014 - 02:35pm PT
The Crux is all you, El Cap; reachy, scary, incredibly exposed, hard, The Works! You'll like the wide too! Um, take some Wyde gear....

Gym climber
Feb 18, 2014 - 02:43pm PT
Thanks, Guys....

I like the new, kinder, gentler, taco. LOL... I see Will's avatar and cringe every time.

Believe it or not Will, Werner the nut case that he is, lead the FFA of the wide pitch on a set of Friend's to number 4. There's an old rusty bolt half way up the pitch, drilled in 1963, that he lowered off of to back clean his gear.

He lowered all the way to the ledge, climbed back up, sent the crux off the old bolt, place all his gear, and starting moaning about the fact he had no more gear, and kept climbing. Then finally he yells, "A Bolt, Coz, A Bolt!"

He proceeds to clove off to the one, 1963, spinner 1/4, yells off belay, hauls are bag, and then to my horror yells, belay on.

I had to follow the thing with him hanging off that bolt, I knew if I fell I would most likely kill us both. Pretty much a solo with the extra bonus of killing your buddy.

I got to the belay and he's just sitting there chanting away to Lord Krishna wondering why am so scare. LOL. I'll never forget that one, not for a moment. Talk about PTSD...

Trad climber
June Lake, California....via the Damascus Road
Feb 18, 2014 - 03:23pm PT
Read through this thread (mostly regarding soloing) and see some really good posts, including the blunt comments by Coz, which in my opinion, are warranted.

All of us, yes, even Alex, are fallible human beings. We also practice our dance on an imperfect matrix.

The one constant and perfectly infallible ingredient in our collective endeavors is this brutal partner called....gravity.

None are immune.
The Larry

Moab, UT
Feb 18, 2014 - 03:51pm PT
Great story Coz! Old school indeed.
McHale's Navy

Trad climber
From Panorama City, CA
Feb 18, 2014 - 06:28pm PT
The full meal deal of Sendero:

One minute in Alex talks about it as being the next step in technical in controlling the mind could be considered technical. Interesting.
tom woods

Gym climber
Bishop, CA
Feb 18, 2014 - 07:17pm PT
This thread was worth it for Coz's FA story. I'm still laughing.

Lots of drift on this one. Soloing, and something about Sharma that was forgotten by three posts in.
Messages 81 - 100 of total 103 in this topic << First  |  < Previous  |  Show All  |  Next >  |  Last >>
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