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Feb 17, 2014 - 07:43pm PT
it's always a bit sad when those sitting in old folks homes project either their dreams or their nightmares onto the lives of those doing the living.

'cause, as has always been and will always be the case, the only guy/gal who knows whether or not their 2500' long and 12' girthed "dick" is filled with silicone and fear, is too busy working it to comment...

Trad climber
Bay Area
Feb 18, 2014 - 03:33pm PT
I believe one has to acknowledge Pacific Edge's Tom Davis and Diane Russell, who have mentored a young Chris and many other climbers, including yours truly. Their stoke for the sport is contagious. They make climbing fun, accessible and safe. Cheers to these two.
And Peter Carrick.

I recall when Sharma first showed up at Pac Edge. Perhaps he was 12 or 13? He was almost instantly climbing way above his age and experience. Chris and Alex and others have a natural gift for climbing in the 99.999 percentile.
A lot of their excellence also comes from living the sport. Think of Kauk, Bachar, Bard in the 70s and 80's. "Walking up" routes that most of us we working hard at while on belay.
This is what they do. Nearly all that they do. When they do have to ask the question "can I do this route today?", they've got the ingrained thought and "feeling" processes to reach a safe conclusion.

We "mortals" cannot compare our experiences to theirs. Those who try to emulate someone like Alex or JB do so at their peril. (no, I don't believe they are God-like nor that God has anything to do with their success)
Vitaliy M.

Mountain climber
San Francisco
Feb 18, 2014 - 04:02pm PT
It is cool to be cool and majority of humans want to seem cool to others. Our ego is a disease and a blessing in the same time.

Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
Feb 18, 2014 - 04:20pm PT
(OT) Power Point is a Very cool climb and I thank Scott for pointing us toward it to do an early ascent!
Jay-posting from a math classroom so I don't have ta spell fer shrit!-bro

Social climber
Joshua Tree
Feb 18, 2014 - 04:27pm PT
Power Point..I remember talking to an infrequent taco poster, valley hardman right after he and his partner made an attempt and bailed. Both these climbers have freed El Cap, btw. Came down because they had bad gear beta, were up there with like one piece bigger than a blue camalot and there's a pitch (11a? IIRC) that's more or less 3.5-4" for the whole pitch.

They said it looked fantastic and was awesome up that point. I still haven't gone up there, heard the traverse pitch is reachy and runout at the crux.

Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
Feb 18, 2014 - 05:35pm PT
The Crux is all you, El Cap; reachy, scary, incredibly exposed, hard, The Works! You'll like the wide too! Um, take some Wyde gear....

Trad climber
June Lake, California....via the Damascus Road
Feb 18, 2014 - 06:23pm PT
Read through this thread (mostly regarding soloing) and see some really good posts, including the blunt comments by Coz, which in my opinion, are warranted.

All of us, yes, even Alex, are fallible human beings. We also practice our dance on an imperfect matrix.

The one constant and perfectly infallible ingredient in our collective endeavors is this brutal partner called....gravity.

None are immune.
The Larry

Moab, UT
Feb 18, 2014 - 06:51pm PT
Great story Coz! Old school indeed.
McHale's Navy

Trad climber
From Panorama City, CA
Feb 18, 2014 - 09:28pm PT
The full meal deal of Sendero:

One minute in Alex talks about it as being the next step in technical in controlling the mind could be considered technical. Interesting.
tom woods

Gym climber
Bishop, CA
Feb 18, 2014 - 10:17pm PT
This thread was worth it for Coz's FA story. I'm still laughing.

Lots of drift on this one. Soloing, and something about Sharma that was forgotten by three posts in.

Trad climber
Northern California
Feb 18, 2014 - 10:33pm PT
Mr Clean, those clips were great. Thanks. "If the tv crews are there it means it's going to be a totally casual climbing experience"
Vitaliy M.

Mountain climber
San Francisco
Feb 19, 2014 - 05:43pm PT
if you can look at yourself and truly believe that what you do now is worthwhile, truthful, and internally valuable, then you've won.

I saw some ST member say it in a different thread, and thought it applies here. If one does something for those reasons and is ok with the risk involved than the person has won, no matter what the consequence is. If you die no one will agree that attempting to solo some climb was worth it, but can you admit to yourself that your life was worth living if you do not take at least some of the calculated risks you wanted to take? We all take calculated risks. Above Coz himself said he climbed some pitch with one rusty bolt as an anchor above, or ran some R X pitches on FAs. Not sure if that is much safer than free soloing a rehearsed climb.

Ice climber
Pomfert VT
Feb 19, 2014 - 06:17pm PT
Alot of the thigs I lead are more dangerous than my solos but that is probobly due to the fact that I solo WAY below my lead limits. yesterdays ice solo was spicyer than intended though. sometimes it sneaks up on you.......
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