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Peter Haan
Trad climber
Santa Cruz, CA
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Feb 15, 2014 - 09:55pm PT
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Scotty, I tried to email you privately but ST would not let me. I wanted to say:
"May I make a friendly suggestion? Put your posts in a word processor that can check for spelling and grammar before you post the actual text into the wild. This can be done on mobil as well as laptop and desktop devices.
It is my belief that things will go quite a bit better for you and we your supporters if you had the assistance of a word processor like Word or Pages to keep your writing polished. Many of us here do this, by the way. I always do unless it is simply a sentence or so. Your points are important and you want to bring your best forwards.
best to you, Peter Haan"
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Kalimon
Social climber
Ridgway, CO
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Feb 15, 2014 - 10:39pm PT
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We're all going to die if we keep it up . . . there are many paths that lead to our inevitable demise. Someday even the Earth will be quiet and still . . . the history of mankind will be blowing in the cosmic wind.
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ß Î Ø T Ç H
Boulder climber
extraordinaire
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Feb 15, 2014 - 11:44pm PT
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I really been enjoying coz's recent writes here. If anybody has a problem with his posts, go back and read his account of the FFA on Southern Belle (for one thing) for some perspective.
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jgill
Boulder climber
Colorado
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Feb 16, 2014 - 12:54am PT
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^^^
The truth emerges . . .
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Jim Clipper
climber
from: forests to tree farms
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Feb 16, 2014 - 03:15am PT
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Wasn't it mother's milk?
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pyro
Big Wall climber
Calabasas
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Feb 16, 2014 - 02:46pm PT
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cozy could u spell better!!!!!
ZZZZZzzzz!
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McHale's Navy
Trad climber
From Panorama City, CA
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Feb 16, 2014 - 02:50pm PT
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When is Sharma going to start soloing? Just when I get used to this whole new promotion of soloing, Coz has to go and throw tacks in the road. I loved that highball video of Lonnie Kauk at the Butters. Are we getting buttered up to take a fall? We are all in this together guys. We can call bullshit on the big promoters of this stuff and tell them to go F themselves.
Maybe TNF should change their mantra to; NEVER STOP STICKING YOUR NECK OUT.
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TwistedCrank
climber
Bungwater Hollow, Ida-ho
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Feb 16, 2014 - 02:55pm PT
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If you spell like a third grader, you'll get treated like a third grader. Or a whiney narcissistic bitch, depending on the audience.
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McHale's Navy
Trad climber
From Panorama City, CA
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Feb 16, 2014 - 03:31pm PT
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That's the vid I was referring to - Too Big to Flail (great name). We are getting hooked on the stuff.
It's fun to watch but...... Oh hell, who am I to worry about these guys. Bring it on!
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KP Ariza
climber
SCC
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Feb 16, 2014 - 04:04pm PT
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They are gonna do it regardless. Just the way that climbers have been doing since the beginning of the sports conception. Its just getting harder for us to comprehend because the progression of difficulty and risk seems to be too rapid. But is it??
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pyro
Big Wall climber
Calabasas
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Feb 16, 2014 - 05:30pm PT
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cozy make sure u can spell I wouldn't want you to be confused or mistaken as a ESL student!!!
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pb
Sport climber
Sonora Ca
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Feb 16, 2014 - 06:13pm PT
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Is there a progression of risk in more mainstream climbing trends?
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pb
Sport climber
Sonora Ca
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Feb 16, 2014 - 06:51pm PT
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It seems the majority is drawn to safer styles of climbing. Some more experienced and older climbers believe this trend has made the activity more accessible. As a result, crags are more crowded. What was the topic again? Oh yeah, why were we taking potshots at Chris B?
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AndyO
Social climber
Brooklyn, NY
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Feb 16, 2014 - 07:34pm PT
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It's probably been 20 years since I've seen Belizzi, but what happened to that proud hippie beard and beer gut he used to sport at Jailhouse? I remember his claim to fame back when as being "the fattest 5.13 climber in America," or somesuch...
As for who is responsible for Chris' early development, I remember Andres Puhvel and Chris Bloch being influential. Puhvel even marketed himself through his Yo! Basecamp Seminars as "Chris Sharma's first teacher. Although the story I heard was that the first time young Chris came into the Santa Cruz gym, he was hiking 5.11s, without really being "coached" by anyone.
Maybe I can claim responsiblity. When I first heard of Chris, during the waning days of my short-lived teenage prodigy period,* he was described to me as "the new AndyO" ... but nahhh... I never held a candle to that kid.
*I was active in the early 90s, from about 14-19 years old, with some high place finishes at competitions and hard sport ascents. Then I devolved into what was described by my friend Jimi T in Climbing magazine as a "derelict West Coast youth in oversized jeans..." or something like that. Which was hilarious, and sort of true.
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redrocker
climber
NV
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Feb 16, 2014 - 08:44pm PT
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I'm unable to discern whether the OP started this thread as a lighthearted jest aimed at a friend of his (Chris Bellizzi), or if his intentions were less kind. I've chosen to assume it was the former....but....on the chance that it was the latter, may I just say.....
I've had the pleasure of spending some time with Chris Bellizzi twice.
Both times it was in the context of sharing a campsite and climbing days with a large group of climbers who had met up, on a road trip, at a destination where none of us were locals. Several in the group were mutual acquaintances of Chris and myself.
I'd never met Chris before and it didn't take long to see that he was somewhat of a character.
I liked him right away and the more I got to know him, over the course of both occasions, the more I liked him.
As to the question of Chris B claiming to play a part in the making of Chris S I cannot say. He made no such claims to me.
I've met Chris S two or three times but would not claim to be even an acquaintance of his. That said, I wouldn't be surprised to learn that he shared my favorable opinion of Chris B.
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KP Ariza
climber
SCC
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Feb 16, 2014 - 09:22pm PT
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Only met Sharma a couple of times but as far as I can recall, in addition to the guys mentioned above, I think the guys who really made Sharma were.....
Jason Campbell
Tommy Caldwell
Timmy Fairfield
Dale Goddard.....
and any of the other early comp climbers who fell victim to superior talent. After leaving all these guys in the dust, he probably started to realize his potential. Fuel to the fire.
Also, he would probably give shouts to friends like Jimmy T, Boone Speed, or even David LeWinter. Positive motivators.
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wstmrnclmr
Trad climber
Bolinas, CA
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Feb 16, 2014 - 09:57pm PT
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Kenny.....Honnold put up "too big to flail" (http://climbingnarc.com/2012/01/alex-honnold-opens-new-highball-too-big-to-fail-in-bishop/);. Both Honnold and Kauk worked problem on top rope first but still amazing. I'm more impressed by JB's onsite solo's on thin face/slab. Maybe not as hard technically but very impressive mentally making them more impressive to me.
Edit: The article was on front page of site. Just put "too big to flail" in search.
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Vitaliy M.
Mountain climber
San Francisco
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Feb 16, 2014 - 10:36pm PT
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Bottom line the only one who made Chris Sharma, is a God given talent and a passion to match.
Very well said.
Also, I think coz forgot more about climbing than majority here will ever be able to comprehend. His opinion on the subject of Honnold is very honest and not at all offensive IMHO.
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climbski2
Mountain climber
Anchorage AK, Reno NV
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Feb 16, 2014 - 10:48pm PT
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I'm glad Coz spoke up on his honest and certainly valuable opinion. It's sounds much like another valley legends opinion I have heard.
It was very interesting watching Hans and Honnold on the new Nose record a while back. Which in many ways was freesoloing tied together for significant sections.
Very different styles.
I liked Hans'es better for sure. Much more secure if anything odd occurred. Very disciplined effort to take advantage of 3 points whenever possible. Honnold was more casual and opened himself up more to the unforeseen.
Disciplined good habits matter.
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wstmrnclmr
Trad climber
Bolinas, CA
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Feb 16, 2014 - 11:00pm PT
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^^^^^^^^^^^Vitaliy. Nice! I appreciate and respect both Peter H's and Scott C's words as both have much experience and wisdom (and both can be hard for me to read at times due to them being at opposite ends of the writers spectrum, one being at times, at least to my average reading comprehension, overly scholarly and flowery while the other can be, spotty grammar aside, short and vulgar. But both are wonderful to read and get their points across.
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jgill
Boulder climber
Colorado
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Feb 16, 2014 - 11:54pm PT
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I'm inclined to agree with Coz about the fate of soloists. So many have died going back at least to Winkler (1880s?) and Preuss (1913?). I am neutral about this type of climbing unless media exposure or other devices conspire to present "challenges" to novices.
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KP Ariza
climber
SCC
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Feb 17, 2014 - 12:12am PT
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Kenny.....Honnold put up "too big to flail"
Thanks Tony, I was aware that Honnold did it first. I just think that the Kauk footage is a well done intimate look at what these guys get after these days.
Obviously, John was THE pioneer in this arena but I'm curious, on sight "slab" free solos? Maybe you've heard of a few that I haven't?
Also, just for the record Coz (if its the same dude), Eric G died roped up, after slipping on wet rock, on a 5.10 pitch, on a FFA attempt on middle Cathedral. I was at the cache that day.
Edit: J Gill, the Thimble was one of the gateway drugs.
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2 l l
Sport climber
Rancho Verga, CA
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Feb 17, 2014 - 12:17am PT
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...the fate of soloists. So many have died... More people die from mistakes made with the ropes and gear, than soloing. Alot of the soloist's deaths get lumped together like Dano and Reardon that weren't even climbing at the time.
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KP Ariza
climber
SCC
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Feb 17, 2014 - 12:33am PT
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I know Scott, I heard the entire story from Doug shortly there after. I sat at the cache on standby that day along with a few others. I'm sorry you had to see that.
Although my particulars about the actual route itself may be incorrect, my point is that Eric was not free soloing.
Edit: With all due respect Scott, you were up there, I was not but, A dry 5.4 move? That's absolutely not what I remember hearing. 5.10 pitch, Wet rock, around a corner and out of sight, partner heard the impact but did not see it. Whole bit sucked.
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KP Ariza
climber
SCC
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Feb 17, 2014 - 12:51am PT
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Understood Scott, but the few times I met him he was a very humble, reserved guy. Certainly not a story telling hot shot. You may have had a wider scope.
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wstmrnclmr
Trad climber
Bolinas, CA
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Feb 17, 2014 - 01:28am PT
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Kenny..... "edging skills or hospital bills" off the top of my head.....Not to try to stray from the topic but it's great to see that anyone has the freedom to climb in the style they choose and that we are free to debate.
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KP Ariza
climber
SCC
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Feb 17, 2014 - 01:31am PT
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I won't argue that Scott. You certainly sat at the top of the stack long enough to know.
Although I think you are doing the right thing by using your experiences to get a message across, I believe that for the most part it will fall on deaf ears. Folks will always push the limits, it's innate. Especially so, in extreme sports. The same Limits that were set by people who came before them.
Edit: Tony, Bachar got a good look at Skeletal Remains when he chopped Bruce's bolts. He then "on sight" soled it and re named it. BTW, it's 10b and roughly the same height as Too Big to Flail...which is 5.13d.
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pc
climber
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Feb 17, 2014 - 01:53am PT
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$.02 on some of what made/makes Chris S.
IMO his Mom, Gita, gave him his super strong hands. She had the most beautiful big hands. Neat lady.
pc
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KP Ariza
climber
SCC
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Feb 17, 2014 - 02:09am PT
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Lol,
Man hands huh? Gotta love those Seinfeld re runs.
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pc
climber
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Feb 17, 2014 - 02:27am PT
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Kp I didn't intend lol here. I said beautiful hands, not ugly man hands at all.
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WBraun
climber
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Feb 17, 2014 - 02:28am PT
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One thing for sure Sharma has a very positive auspicious name.
It's not by chance but by your previous lifetime you get a nice name like that ......
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redrocker
climber
NV
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Feb 17, 2014 - 02:43am PT
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^^^^Google led me to Wiki.
Sharma is a surname found in India and Nepal as a surname or given name among Brahmins. [1] As a noun in Sanskrit, Sharma has various positive connotations, such as "bliss", "happiness", "shelter", "laid back" and "protection."
The name Sharma is written as शर्मा in Hindi.[2] An alternative English spelling of the name used in the city of Varanasi and the Indian states of Assam, Andhra Pradesh and Kerala is "Sarma".[3] Some Assamese people also use Sarmah.[3]
According to Dictionary of American Family Names,[1] the name Sharma is listed as "Indian: Hindu (Brahman) name from Sanskrit šarma ‘joy’, ‘shelter’." Other theories suggest that origin of the name Sharma lies in the ancient Sanskrit word "Sharman" which means teacher or master.
Interesting. Thanks Werner B.
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KP Ariza
climber
SCC
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Feb 17, 2014 - 02:49am PT
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Sorry PC,
For what it's worth, the woman in that episode had nice looking hands as well. Big enough though to get sinker hand jams all the way up Generator Crack.
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survival
Big Wall climber
Terrapin Station
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Feb 17, 2014 - 02:52am PT
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Bee Laazy is an awesome dude! Always fun to climb and hang out with back in the day.
More people die from mistakes made with the ropes and gear, than soloing. Alot of the soloist's deaths get lumped together like Dano and Reardon that weren't even climbing at the time.
Shipley wasn't climbing either.
Yes Coz, we all know that Alex pushes the envelope, but this "soon to be dead" sh#t really isn't called for.
He knows what he's up against, and so do all the rest of us. You don't need to come on here and make announcements like you're privy to special information.
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deuce4
climber
Hobart, Australia
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Feb 17, 2014 - 03:22am PT
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Coz, I reckon Alex H is doing similar stuff as we used to do, just on an exponentially higher level. Perhaps his ratio of "risk verses skill" is even lower. Like Bachar often socratically mused about soloing, when he was explaining the craft to novices, "Would you stand on a 10 foot ledge? What about a 3' ledge? How about a one foot ledge? " and so on. Then he would explain the only difference is that skill enables one to move on smaller and smaller ledges.
The trick, I reckon, is knowing when to quit. The glow of media exposure might add to the difficulty.
In my own small way, the decision abandon the frequent roll of the dice on my life took me years to withdraw from--the adrenaline withdrawal wasn't a happy time, but happy now in retrospect! But it was only after seeing so many best friends (most of your list, and others), all in their mid-30's, same age as me, pass from various on-the-edge activities, did I realise that it had to be done. I came to the realisation that I had been wrong in my thinking that it was my life and I was the only one affected when experiencing frequent close calls (not to mention the dozens of near misses on routes like Great Trango); rather, the impact of death reverberates hard amongst the wider community, and affects much more than the self.
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John M
climber
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Feb 17, 2014 - 04:06am PT
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Tell us of your bold ascents, that qualifies you to talk with such authority.
Scott, I respect your opinion, but there are things other then bold ascents that qualify a person to talk about such things. This is just as a heads up. Not trying to start a flame fest. Do you know what a pararescue jumper is? Bruce was a pararescue jumper and eventually became an instructor. I would say that he understands boldness.
As for who came first. I'm pretty sure he is a only a few years younger then Werner, who you know is only a couple of years younger then God. So I think he probably came before you. Maybe not in climbing, but in boldness, sure.
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all in jim
climber
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Feb 17, 2014 - 09:45am PT
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I think some of you are missing Scott's point when you argue that some on his list didn't die soloing.
They died pushing the edge way out there. They were addicted to that. Those who do that over and over usually do die as a direct result.
And the media's window of the whole thing is a narrow and money-driven one. I'd much rather hear what a veteran like Scott has to say on the matter - he lived it and lived through it.
If you really want to argue with Scott's list, make a similar list of old, high-profile soloists who are still alive and still soloing hard.
The old soloists (like Scott - don't forget he soloed some crazy sh#t BITD) who are still alive are the ones who realized that the whole "I'm in control thing" is a fable.
Sometimes you need a glimpse of how pointless it can all seem after the fact. Scott's visit with Walt's parents is a painful but poignant example.
That said, I think Alex's soloing is amazing and highly entertaining... I can indulge in that since I don't really know him. I hope he lives a long and happy life and solos el cap and blows all our minds.
But I knew Yabo, Michael and Dano. Watching them do crazy sh#t over and over was really freaky. It was as if they were possessed by a demon at times. Losing them was horrible and incredibly sad.
I know a soloist now who is young and very stoked on the whole thing. He's an incredible climber with amazing mind control. I'm in awe of him as a climber.
But all that won't count for sh#t if he blows it, because most of all, I appreciate him as a friend.
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survival
Big Wall climber
Terrapin Station
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Feb 17, 2014 - 11:30am PT
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Thanks for the nod John.
However, to be accurate, I was a Global SERE Instructor, not a PJ.
Yes, I did jumps and some freefall, but not on the same level as the PJs do.
I did train special Ops guys, including Navy SEALs.
Coz, as to your question, the hardest thing I ever led was 5.12. I was only solid on hard 10/easy 11 for the most part. I've only done 10 El Cap routes and around 60 walls. The hardest thing I ever soloed way off the ground was easy 10. I have done a fair amount of soloing, just not super hard stuff.
So no, I can't hang with your bold exploits. There are MANY guys around this site who are greater climbers than I ever was.
I have earned my stripes though, and have every right to my opinion, same as you.
My opinion is that "soon to be dead" is uncalled for. Then you say it is out of love and compassion. I don't see it.
I also understand your go to shtick when challenged is to get all aggro and start calling people "tough guy" and asking about peoples "bold ascents." I've seen you do it many times. Hell you even did it to Jim Donini.
So no, you are not the keeper of secret knowledge that gives you the right to call Alex "soon to be dead." It may be true, but it's still rude. At least he makes 5.12 look a lot easier than I ever made an 11a look!
We all know that some of the things he is doing are way out there.
I wish he would stop doing them too, but I'm not his mom.
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survival
Big Wall climber
Terrapin Station
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Feb 17, 2014 - 11:49am PT
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I can rest quietly in the fact that I didn't play a part in it.
Well said. I feel the same.
But who could we point fingers at for playing a part, the guys taking the pictures or making the videos?
Is there actually anyone encouraging him to do these things? It has always been a game of one-ups-manship (how the hell do you write that?)
I secretly admire him and cringe and turn away at the same time.
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tradmanclimbs
Ice climber
Pomfert VT
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Feb 17, 2014 - 11:56am PT
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lost my best friend in 1984 due to a terminal case of WMS better known as Watch Me Syndrome. Pressure to pull off the next big stunt to keep the money flowing must also make it hard to make good decisions 100% of the time.
Coz is crude but there is no need to be polite when you are trying to save a life........
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WBraun
climber
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Feb 17, 2014 - 12:02pm PT
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When one remains equipoised one can understand.
The minute one loses balance then you will fall in your understanding.
You'll then end up on one side of the fence or other .....
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survival
Big Wall climber
Terrapin Station
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Feb 17, 2014 - 12:12pm PT
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Yo Sarah, the name's not Bob, it's Bruce.
So according to your street cred scale who's qualified to discuss this with you?
Edit: Here's me, soloing a couple thousand feet above the talus. But the route is only 5.9, so I guess if I had fallen I wouldn't be quite as dead as a guy soloing 5.12.
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steveA
Trad climber
Wolfeboro, NH
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Feb 17, 2014 - 12:28pm PT
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Everyone has a right to their opinion. I think the last few pages here concerning soloing are well thought out. Some may be pretty blunt, but are generally spot on.
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tradmanclimbs
Ice climber
Pomfert VT
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Feb 17, 2014 - 12:30pm PT
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If it is at all possible the new version of Coz is more combative than the old....
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tradmanclimbs
Ice climber
Pomfert VT
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Feb 17, 2014 - 12:33pm PT
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The level that you solo in relation to your limits has a real bearing as well as the simple fact that the smaller the holds the less margin for error. once you get up to a certain level the margin for error simply disolves....
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survival
Big Wall climber
Terrapin Station
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Feb 17, 2014 - 12:36pm PT
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Thank you Scott.
I apologize for the way I came off. I certainly bow to your free climbing ability!
Now about that Belizzi character....
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tradmanclimbs
Ice climber
Pomfert VT
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Feb 17, 2014 - 01:01pm PT
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By the thread drift we can conclude that soling is a much more interesting topic than sport climbing. Sharma is so far beyond most of us in pure ability that it is no longer interesting. 5.15 whatever.... I will never even come close so why bother even paying attention. We all solo on one level or annother even if we think we don't. we all rationalize our risk takeing and try to tell ourselfs that it won't happen to me because I have my sh#t wired tight...
I was a big chicken yesterday and bailed off of Repentance WI5 the crux moves off the belay on P2 were not really protectable because the ice is reasonably thin and very abused. I was chicken and could not commit to what would have been close to a solo yet I ran it out enough on the steep 1st pitch that I was also basicly soloing..
I was not feeling physicalyy all that great. my shoulder is jacked from an incident @ work last week that agravated an old injury. As a concequence my left arm feels weak and my head suffers.. pretty sure I could have done it had I gone for it but not 200% sure so I bailed. live to fight annother day. yet this incident proves nothing other than the fact that I am prone to putting myself in dangerous situations..... and I am a chicken..
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WBraun
climber
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Feb 17, 2014 - 01:04pm PT
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this incident proves nothing other than the fact that I am prone to putting myself in dangerous situations..... and I am a chicken
Nope, it proves you're intelligent .....
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climbski2
Mountain climber
Anchorage AK, Reno NV
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Feb 17, 2014 - 01:16pm PT
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Did that just happen?
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tradmanclimbs
Ice climber
Pomfert VT
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Feb 17, 2014 - 01:19pm PT
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Na, I am stupid. who tries to climb WI5 w/ a jacked shoulder and a sick partner... heck i might qualify for being stupid simply for ice climbing.
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pb
Sport climber
Sonora Ca
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Feb 17, 2014 - 01:44pm PT
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Mr. Clean white courtesy phone, Mr. Clean?
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Mtnmun
Trad climber
Top of the Mountain Mun
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Feb 17, 2014 - 01:56pm PT
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I believe one has to acknowledge Pacific Edge's Tom Davis and Diane Russell, who have mentored a young Chris and many other climbers, including yours truly. Their stoke for the sport is contagious. They make climbing fun, accessible and safe. Cheers to these two.
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Gerg
Trad climber
Calgary
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Feb 17, 2014 - 03:16pm PT
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Maybe I am missing some inside joke here, but I don't get why everyone slags Cosgrove down for his grammar etc.
FYI this is a forum not an english class. After working at a daily newspaper for nearly 20 years I can honestly say I have seen some of the worst Photoshop 'jobs'on ST along with laughable sentence structure from others than him.
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tradmanclimbs
Ice climber
Pomfert VT
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Feb 17, 2014 - 03:31pm PT
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anyone who slags on grammer on thease blogs is grasping @ straws and usually loseing an argument. the point of this whole process is raw and fast. bound to be full of typos..
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Vitaliy M.
Mountain climber
San Francisco
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Feb 17, 2014 - 03:37pm PT
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One thing for sure, is that Honnold does get a lot of people debating and dropping their job after he soloed something. Attention from people is what his sponsors want. Coz, you do participate in it by continuing to talk about him. This attention does pay for his bills and possibly also encourage him to solo harder stuff. No one can argue that it seems bad ass to public, and humans are partly controlled by their ego and want attention. I hope his ego is tiny and he is not driven by it at all. And even if he is not driven by it I hope he does stop the big solo outings by choice and not by chance, which is always there when you do so much soloing it becomes a game of statistics. In the same time I hope he does go for his dreams and passions, lives a long life and is happy with it in the end. If he is willing to take his chances, that is his choice and I respect it (even though he shouldn't give a f*** about what I, you, him/her and what they think, his life his choices). I am sure most of the people on this forum wish him well, but have different ways of expressing their concerns.
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BruceAnderson
Social climber
Los Angeles currently St. Antonin, France
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Feb 17, 2014 - 04:05pm PT
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I always wonder where Honnold got the motivation to do his stuff. Did someone school him on the exploits of the former soloists, dropping a seed about how Bachar and Croft and rest were the most bad ass, back when Alex was just a youngin in the gym in Sacto? I mean he knows the history and it obviously made an impact on him. Perhaps we're all too blame a little bit for glorifying the "stone masters" and their accomplishments. When i started climbing i too thought the Bachar-Yerian was the end all be all and was star struck by the tales of Johnny Rock and the rest. Of course it didn't take long to realize I didn't have the skill or the balls to do that stuff.
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The Alpine
climber
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Feb 17, 2014 - 05:42pm PT
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I always that Josh Lowell made Sharma Sharma.
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nah000
climber
canuckistan
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Feb 17, 2014 - 07:43pm PT
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it's always a bit sad when those sitting in old folks homes project either their dreams or their nightmares onto the lives of those doing the living.
'cause, as has always been and will always be the case, the only guy/gal who knows whether or not their 2500' long and 12' girthed "dick" is filled with silicone and fear, is too busy working it to comment...
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HighTraverse
Trad climber
Bay Area
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Feb 18, 2014 - 03:33pm PT
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I believe one has to acknowledge Pacific Edge's Tom Davis and Diane Russell, who have mentored a young Chris and many other climbers, including yours truly. Their stoke for the sport is contagious. They make climbing fun, accessible and safe. Cheers to these two. And Peter Carrick.
I recall when Sharma first showed up at Pac Edge. Perhaps he was 12 or 13? He was almost instantly climbing way above his age and experience. Chris and Alex and others have a natural gift for climbing in the 99.999 percentile.
A lot of their excellence also comes from living the sport. Think of Kauk, Bachar, Bard in the 70s and 80's. "Walking up" routes that most of us we working hard at while on belay.
This is what they do. Nearly all that they do. When they do have to ask the question "can I do this route today?", they've got the ingrained thought and "feeling" processes to reach a safe conclusion.
We "mortals" cannot compare our experiences to theirs. Those who try to emulate someone like Alex or JB do so at their peril. (no, I don't believe they are God-like nor that God has anything to do with their success)
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Vitaliy M.
Mountain climber
San Francisco
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Feb 18, 2014 - 04:02pm PT
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It is cool to be cool and majority of humans want to seem cool to others. Our ego is a disease and a blessing in the same time.
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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Feb 18, 2014 - 04:20pm PT
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(OT) Power Point is a Very cool climb and I thank Scott for pointing us toward it to do an early ascent!
Jay-posting from a math classroom so I don't have ta spell fer shrit!-bro
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Elcapinyoazz
Social climber
Joshua Tree
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Feb 18, 2014 - 04:27pm PT
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Power Point..I remember talking to an infrequent taco poster, valley hardman right after he and his partner made an attempt and bailed. Both these climbers have freed El Cap, btw. Came down because they had bad gear beta, were up there with like one piece bigger than a blue camalot and there's a pitch (11a? IIRC) that's more or less 3.5-4" for the whole pitch.
They said it looked fantastic and was awesome up that point. I still haven't gone up there, heard the traverse pitch is reachy and runout at the crux.
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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Feb 18, 2014 - 05:35pm PT
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The Crux is all you, El Cap; reachy, scary, incredibly exposed, hard, The Works! You'll like the wide too! Um, take some Wyde gear....
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The Larry
climber
Moab, UT
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Feb 18, 2014 - 06:51pm PT
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Great story Coz! Old school indeed.
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tom woods
Gym climber
Bishop, CA
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Feb 18, 2014 - 10:17pm PT
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This thread was worth it for Coz's FA story. I'm still laughing.
Lots of drift on this one. Soloing, and something about Sharma that was forgotten by three posts in.
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Daphne
Trad climber
Northern California
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Feb 18, 2014 - 10:33pm PT
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Mr Clean, those clips were great. Thanks. "If the tv crews are there it means it's going to be a totally casual climbing experience"
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Vitaliy M.
Mountain climber
San Francisco
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Feb 19, 2014 - 05:43pm PT
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if you can look at yourself and truly believe that what you do now is worthwhile, truthful, and internally valuable, then you've won.
I saw some ST member say it in a different thread, and thought it applies here. If one does something for those reasons and is ok with the risk involved than the person has won, no matter what the consequence is. If you die no one will agree that attempting to solo some climb was worth it, but can you admit to yourself that your life was worth living if you do not take at least some of the calculated risks you wanted to take? We all take calculated risks. Above Coz himself said he climbed some pitch with one rusty bolt as an anchor above, or ran some R X pitches on FAs. Not sure if that is much safer than free soloing a rehearsed climb.
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tradmanclimbs
Ice climber
Pomfert VT
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Feb 19, 2014 - 06:17pm PT
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Alot of the thigs I lead are more dangerous than my solos but that is probobly due to the fact that I solo WAY below my lead limits. yesterdays ice solo was spicyer than intended though. sometimes it sneaks up on you.......
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| Messages 1 - 71 of total 71 in this topic |
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