Training for the New Alpinism: Steve House, Scott Johnston


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Soda Springs, CA
Topic Author's Original Post - Feb 15, 2014 - 10:41am PT
This book looks great! apparently ready to ship. I have been getting advice from Scott Johnston for my nordic race training this year, he is one of the best coaches in the US. Also an accomplished climber (K2 summit without oxygen, etc.)

From publisher:
"In Training for the New Alpinism, Steve House, world-class climber and Patagonia ambassador, and Scott Johnston, coach of U.S. National Champions and World Cup Nordic Skiers, translate training theory into practice to allow you to coach yourself to any mountaineering goal. Applying training practices from other endurance sports, House and Johnston demonstrate that following a carefully designed regimen is as effective for alpinism as it is for any other endurance sport and leads to better performance... Chapters are augmented with inspiring essays by world-renowned climbers, including Ueli Steck, Mark Twight, Peter Habeler, Voytek Kurtyka, and Will Gadd. Filled with photos, graphs, and illustrations."

Soda Springs, CA
Topic Author's Reply - Feb 15, 2014 - 05:58pm PT
Bump...this must be if some interest!

Trad climber
Asia, Indonesia, East Java
Feb 15, 2014 - 09:11pm PT
I miss having a workout partner. Meeting someone at a set time sure helps when you don't exactly feel like leaving the house again.

Looks like some great stuff. May have to order a copy and hope it doesn't just gather dust on the shelf while I dream of working out.

Feb 15, 2014 - 11:10pm PT
Very interesting! I'm getting that book for sure even if the concept isn't "new".

Feb 16, 2014 - 02:59am PT
Looking forward to reading this -tfpu

Soda Springs, CA
Topic Author's Reply - Feb 17, 2014 - 08:22pm PT
Bump, helping my friend Scott promote this book!
Todd Eastman

Bellingham, WA
Feb 18, 2014 - 12:28am PT
Looks good. Scott knows his stuff.
Brian in SLC

Social climber
Salt Lake City, UT
Feb 18, 2014 - 01:54am PT
Great book. Really well done. I like how it's layed out especially the snippets from a bunch of different climbers.

Almost makes me wanna train...or at least try "Hitler's dog"...ha ha...

Trad climber
Feb 18, 2014 - 01:24pm PT
tx for the heads-up

hadnt seen it before

Social climber
State of decay
Feb 18, 2014 - 02:19pm PT
Looking forward to getting a copy. My old Extreme Alpinism by Twight is dog eared, worn and dated. Nice shot in the trailer of a climber on the summit of Tocllaraju in the Cordillera Blanca., my old stomping grounds....

Trad climber
Bay Area
Feb 18, 2014 - 04:29pm PT
"Go simply, train smart, climb better"
There's something to remember and try to follow.

Sport climber
mammoth lakes ca
Feb 18, 2014 - 05:38pm PT
Here's to Maysho going faster and reaching his potential...RJ

May 8, 2014 - 11:49am PT
Picked up the eBook version of this one a couple of days ago ($11) and have read something like 20% of it thoroughly, and then skimmed way ahead.

Very good book that is fundamentally sound based upon my experiential observations. It starts out laying out the foundation of the necessity of a large Zone 1 training base predicated upon volume, then walks you through the science behind it why our bodies react the way they do to things. To me, the science stuff is extraneous. Cool to geek out on, but as long as I know that X produces Y result...that is what I want.

Anyway, started looking ahead to the actual portion on more specifics relative to training and it looks great. Excited to attempt House's "Alpine Combine" and see where I score fitness-wise as far as the "starting point" is concerned.

Also looking to read through the Horst training guide and kind of take the best nuggets of each relative to my goals and see how I can best create some sort of hybrid program in order to drive the best results for me and my goals (if it makes sense to do so).
McHale's Navy

Trad climber
From Panorama City, CA
May 8, 2014 - 02:04pm PT
And, ya gotta want it....the summit that is.
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