Two-Lips, At Woodfords. The Best 5.7 Crack Climb in Ca?

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Patrick

Trad climber
Reno, NV
Feb 18, 2014 - 12:39pm PT
I've really enjoyed climbing at Woodfords and there are some great climbs up there, but some of the zealots are getting a little nuts over this place. Two lips was fun and had some really good movement on it, but there was also some stuff that made the climb less than classic (ledgey and blocky stuff in the middle, some loose rock, etc). That can be said about a lot of stuff at Woodfords, however. Best 5.7 (I'd buy 5.8 as well) at Woodfords, maybe. Best 5.7 in Cali? Not by a long shot.
Chim-Chim

climber
Topic Author's Reply - Feb 18, 2014 - 12:52pm PT
Dude, I was kidding around. Besides Two-Lips is the only 5.7 at the fords. Also please define zealot, I'm at a loss>
Ron Anderson

Trad climber
Relic MilkEye and grandpoobah of HBRKRNH
Feb 18, 2014 - 12:58pm PT
Mr Dan K,,, Youve done MUCH in "the Fords". Your love of the area shows and is appreciated by EVERY SINGLE PERSON to ever walk up the semi vertical pismo beach that is "the Fords" approaches. So you get labeled a zealot,, and in my book that is OTAY.. OF COURSE the "best" anything will never be defined and or agreed upon. And that is OTAY tu...
Laine

Trad climber
Reno, NV
Feb 18, 2014 - 02:24pm PT
Hey Dan - I updated the mtn project description to reflect the original rating. I thought you said it was 5.8 when you showed it too me but I stand corrected.

Hopefully gonna get over there one day this weekend.
Patrick

Trad climber
Reno, NV
Feb 18, 2014 - 02:32pm PT
Zealot = fanatic.

Its all good, and the work you're putting in at the 'Fords is greatly appreciated. I can certainly understand the promotion of an area you've put so much time and energy into.
skcreidc

Social climber
SD, CA
Feb 18, 2014 - 02:34pm PT
zealot = enthusiastic, generally a good thing. UNLESS we are talking religion in which case LOOK OUT!
Jebus H Bomz

climber
Peavine Basecamp
Feb 18, 2014 - 04:32pm PT
Hey Chim, thought there was also a 5.7 by CSF? Woodfords abides.
Ron Anderson

Trad climber
Relic MilkEye and grandpoobah of HBRKRNH
Feb 18, 2014 - 04:40pm PT
Theres a nice 5.7 on the Apron, a very nice 5.7 crack near CSF, and even a bolted one on bandit crag.
Ksolem

Trad climber
Monrovia, California
Feb 18, 2014 - 05:48pm PT
The best 5.7 crack in CA has to be the "Living Corner," P2 of Romantic Warrior in the CA Needles. But the price of admission is some funky 5.10, and of course there is what lies above...
Chim-Chim

climber
Topic Author's Reply - Feb 18, 2014 - 08:00pm PT
I gave all those climbs a 5.8 rating:) Dank Kinda stiff
Jebus H Bomz

climber
Peavine Basecamp
Feb 18, 2014 - 09:03pm PT
Needles probably has a few of the legitimate best pitches in California, Kris! Man, wish I'd finagled a trip there this season.

Edit: that scrappy little corner by CSF is 5.8, Dan? I thought 5.7 is spot on. Same difference, I guess.
Chim-Chim

climber
Topic Author's Reply - Feb 18, 2014 - 09:16pm PT
Jebus, down-soloed,, after topping out on a new route...didn't feel like walking down and around, and up from the descent gully to the west felt like 5.9++. Dank
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