Two-Lips, At Woodfords. The Best 5.7 Crack Climb in Ca?

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Messages 21 - 40 of total 66 in this topic << First  |  < Previous  |  Show All  |  Next >  |  Last >>
Ron Anderson

Trad climber
Relic MilkEye and grandpoobah of HBRKRNH
Feb 7, 2014 - 01:32pm PT
Good for you wml. Oh and where have i climbed besides tahoe? Yos, Tuolumne, Shasta Trinity, Lassen area, Susanville area, Bishop, Deadmans, Limestone cave, Levining,the RUBIES, Pequop summit, Wild granites, stumps, ORG, Lower Sierras, Higher sierras, many spots in the greatest basin, Utah, Arizona, NM, and a few others im forgetting..I was climbing when you were still contained in yur Dads sackage.
Elcapinyoazz

Social climber
Joshua Tree
Feb 7, 2014 - 02:03pm PT
Weston knows whats up.

Not Woodfords:



Photo: MP
Ron Anderson

Trad climber
Relic MilkEye and grandpoobah of HBRKRNH
Feb 7, 2014 - 02:16pm PT
ElCap,, you ever been to Woodfords?
Vitaliy M.

Mountain climber
San Francisco
Feb 7, 2014 - 02:22pm PT
Would be really hard to beat White Punks on Dope for best 5.8 climb. Or Braille Book. Commitment to Sellangenella is a logical link up for 7 amazing pitches that are about 5.7-8. One move on commitment is supposed to be a 5.9 but I think it is easier, especially compared to other climbs.

But still, I need to get out to woodfords and try those.
NutAgain!

Trad climber
South Pasadena, CA
Feb 7, 2014 - 02:29pm PT
Via Aqua is 5.7

On top of cool multi-pitch climbing, you get awesome vistas and exposure, looking down on the tallest waterfall in North America with rainbow mist spewing about (if you pick the proper season), and you can link it up with Commitment and Selaginella that Vitaliy just recommended, which are both awesome climbs (but above the 5.7 threshold).

Ron Anderson

Trad climber
Relic MilkEye and grandpoobah of HBRKRNH
Feb 7, 2014 - 02:31pm PT
Who really knows the best 5.7? There are probably some in the Shasta T that would rival any. But i also know Chim and the Czar and their routes. So if they say its a full value deal, i tend to believe them. Two LIPS MUST be a viable contender.

And the All American Finger crack rates HIGH as a CA 5.8 as well. But by popularity alone the perfect lie back ranks HIGH. Theres been like three feet of dg removed from the base just by belayers! Ten years from now it will be another twenty feet longer lol!


ps,, one of the BEST 5.7 face climbs in KNEEVADA is "deadmans rappel". ;^)
Ron Anderson

Trad climber
Relic MilkEye and grandpoobah of HBRKRNH
Feb 7, 2014 - 02:59pm PT
hehehe...Well it IZZZZ! ( N Nevada)...;^)

And RED BEARD Too! ( biased~~puurhaps)
Laine

Trad climber
Reno, NV
Feb 7, 2014 - 03:12pm PT
Here be it. Good stuff, especially the handcrack at the top.
2lips
2lips
Credit: Laine
upper handcrack.  More please.
upper handcrack. More please.
Credit: Laine
mucci

Trad climber
The pitch of Bagalaar above you
Feb 7, 2014 - 03:20pm PT
Really?


I do love the chossradery you guys got going on up there.




Elcapinyoazz

Social climber
Joshua Tree
Feb 7, 2014 - 03:20pm PT
ElCap,, you ever been to Woodfords

Why would I drive all the way up there, passing JT, the Needles, the Valley, Courtright, Cal & Hammer Domes,Balch Camp, SEKI, etc, along the way, all of which are 1000x times better, to climb on that little hill of choss?

EDIT: Just saw the pic above of Tulips. You've got to be kidding.
Ron Anderson

Trad climber
Relic MilkEye and grandpoobah of HBRKRNH
Feb 7, 2014 - 03:23pm PT
ahhh that would be a NO then.. Roger dat.

Well Royal Robbins, Warren Harding, Tm Herbert, Dick Long and many other Valley dudes thought it to be worthy...;^) But then what do they know....
roy

Social climber
NZ -> SB,CA -> Zurich
Feb 7, 2014 - 03:23pm PT
As we seem to be casting votes here - I'll put the upper pitch of West Crack on Daff Dome into the ring. Double Dog Leg is also right up there. Mental Physics was perhaps a bit oversold when I did it. Still a fantastic climb though. Stiff competition.

Cheers, Roy
Laine

Trad climber
Reno, NV
Feb 7, 2014 - 03:31pm PT
WML - good thing your taste in music does not reflect your opinion on routes. ;)

I feel like cake now...
Vitaliy M.

Mountain climber
San Francisco
Feb 7, 2014 - 03:31pm PT
Looks like 30-40 feet of crack in a random corner. With trees and crap around it. Maybe some ok climbing for short distance but not something to drive for. Based on the photo only...it is awesome you guys are having a blast putting up new routes there though, wish I lived closer. FOR SURE would be out there often.
Elcapinyoazz

Social climber
Joshua Tree
Feb 7, 2014 - 03:32pm PT
Dolphin and White Lighting in JT are better than your Tulips on my Organ rig up there in Chuffords.

Dolphin:


Photo:MP

Ron Anderson

Trad climber
Relic MilkEye and grandpoobah of HBRKRNH
Feb 7, 2014 - 03:36pm PT
V,,,there are four to seven pitch climbs there. There are still the best possibly waiting. Check out "the hand of God"...Check out "power surge"

And go there pick out a virgin splitter and DOOOEEEET! Go to the "orange wall" and "pinnacles" area. i P-R-O-M-I-S-E youll be impressed.
Ron Anderson

Trad climber
Relic MilkEye and grandpoobah of HBRKRNH
Feb 7, 2014 - 03:46pm PT
Vittles,, this is "power surge" 2nd pitch. From Cultureshock on here in the woodfords thread..



photo not found
Missing photo ID#344038

High Energy wall Woodfords canyon, "Summer" side..
skcreidc

Social climber
SD, CA
Feb 7, 2014 - 03:52pm PT
the other day when I first stumbled into this thread, I checked it out on Mountain Project. There, Laine hisself has two-lips rated 5.8 and 2 stars...no pics. Looks nice to me...but I'll be dammed if I will ever fully get ratings. Seem somewhat beholdent to how well the day is going. hand of god, on the other hand, looks really, really sweet.

Now the cat's out of the bag, Woodfords is going to look like Malibu on a summer Saturday.
Laine

Trad climber
Reno, NV
Feb 7, 2014 - 03:58pm PT
skcreidc - I felt it was 5.8 (but I'm not solid at the grade like Dan). And I did post a pic on MP.

As for HoG, I've done p1 and p4 and you are correct, stellar stuff(assuming the roof pitch doesn't suck). Hoping to rope the infamous Mark Bauer into an ascent by spring time (wishful thinking I imagine).
skcreidc

Social climber
SD, CA
Feb 7, 2014 - 04:08pm PT
Laine, must have missed that photo somehow. The shot you posted here of two lips looks really fun though. And those comments about ratings were actually more generic and not towards you at all. I consider ratings as "general" guidelines, and if someone asked me my opinion...I tend to defer to someone with more confidence.
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