Two-Lips, At Woodfords. The Best 5.7 Crack Climb in Ca?

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Chim-Chim

climber
Topic Author's Original Post - Feb 6, 2014 - 07:30pm PT
I'm solid at the grade, done many classic 5.7's. But for pure "jam crack" goodness, Two-Lips is hard to beat. Straight-in hands to fists. Chimney to thin hands on an exposed arete 105 feet. A viable contender. Dank
Chim-Chim

climber
Topic Author's Reply - Feb 6, 2014 - 08:11pm PT
Bump, perhaps Laine or The Czar ca attest. Laine don't you have a picture?
Credit: Chim-Chim
Ron Anderson

Trad climber
Relic MilkEye and grandpoobah of HBRKRNH
Feb 6, 2014 - 08:15pm PT
Why not eh,, already have the best .10C, and 5.8. OOTD and TPL..

lessee dis here crack..! Sandbag?
Chim-Chim

climber
Topic Author's Reply - Feb 6, 2014 - 08:17pm PT
No sandbag, just the goods.
the czar

climber
meyers, ca.
Feb 6, 2014 - 09:52pm PT
damn good
briham89

Big Wall climber
san jose and south lake tahoe, ca
Feb 6, 2014 - 09:55pm PT
I still want to get out here! Pm me if you need a partner.
Ron Anderson

Trad climber
Relic MilkEye and grandpoobah of HBRKRNH
Feb 6, 2014 - 10:07pm PT
Pitchurrzzz .. Chim,, Czar,, they have these things called cameras,, i know,, PITA,, but ~~~;^)
David Wilson

climber
CA
Feb 6, 2014 - 10:40pm PT
Is that er... a manzanita approach in the foreground ?
klk

Trad climber
cali
Feb 6, 2014 - 10:43pm PT
fists

that means the answer is, "no."

but i appreciate yr loyalty to woodfords.
Chim-Chim

climber
Topic Author's Reply - Feb 7, 2014 - 12:09am PT
KlK, one fist jam actually, with some face holds. Laine posted one on the Woodfords thread. Mine are tied up in files. I'll look to see what number post it was and have to have someone set up a link...I'm retarted
Post 1744 fourth photo down, oh sh#t. He takes some fine pictures. Dank
enjoimx

Trad climber
SLO
Feb 7, 2014 - 03:13am PT
Corrugation corner
Norwegian

Trad climber
dancin on the tip of god's middle finger
Feb 7, 2014 - 08:27am PT
corrugation is great for exposure
and position, but the climbing
is like foreplay before sex with god.

two-lips is sex with god.
Stewart Johnson

climber
lake forest
Feb 7, 2014 - 08:45am PT
Get over it .
Chim-Chim

climber
Topic Author's Reply - Feb 7, 2014 - 10:23am PT
Stewie, every girl has six lips. Don't be a hater because you found this out, just now.:0 DanK
couchmaster

climber
pdx
Feb 7, 2014 - 10:30am PT
Corrugation corner ! Woot!
Chim-Chim

climber
Topic Author's Reply - Feb 7, 2014 - 10:34am PT
Couch, Corrugation is a fine climb, I agree but Two-Lips has more jamming on it than all the 5.7's at the Leap.
Elcapinyoazz

Social climber
Joshua Tree
Feb 7, 2014 - 10:46am PT
Claim is useless without pics, preferably action pics.

Best 5.7 crack climb in CA? Corrugation Corner is a strong contender.

If you just want straight in jamming, Mental Physics and Double Cross also contenders.

Mental Phys (mtnproj pics, not mine):

Chim-Chim

climber
Topic Author's Reply - Feb 7, 2014 - 12:20pm PT
El Cap. you have a point. More of a question though. Wii try to get some pics up... Laine?
Darwin

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Feb 7, 2014 - 12:21pm PT


From the other Woodfords page(s?), it sounds like it's climbable all winter. Is that true?

Chim-chim, thanks for a thread about a 5.7 crack climb!!!! I recently proved to myself that I'm not a 5.8 climber, but I still have hopes for that august grade of 5.7.
Dr. F.

Trad climber
SoCal
Feb 7, 2014 - 12:22pm PT
Looks like a pile of choss
major sag

Double Cross blows anything you got out of the water!
mucci

Trad climber
The pitch of Bagalaar above you
Feb 7, 2014 - 12:25pm PT
Looks like a pile of choss
major sag

LOL!
Ron Anderson

Trad climber
Relic MilkEye and grandpoobah of HBRKRNH
Feb 7, 2014 - 01:32pm PT
Good for you wml. Oh and where have i climbed besides tahoe? Yos, Tuolumne, Shasta Trinity, Lassen area, Susanville area, Bishop, Deadmans, Limestone cave, Levining,the RUBIES, Pequop summit, Wild granites, stumps, ORG, Lower Sierras, Higher sierras, many spots in the greatest basin, Utah, Arizona, NM, and a few others im forgetting..I was climbing when you were still contained in yur Dads sackage.
Elcapinyoazz

Social climber
Joshua Tree
Feb 7, 2014 - 02:03pm PT
Weston knows whats up.

Not Woodfords:



Photo: MP
Ron Anderson

Trad climber
Relic MilkEye and grandpoobah of HBRKRNH
Feb 7, 2014 - 02:16pm PT
ElCap,, you ever been to Woodfords?
Vitaliy M.

Mountain climber
San Francisco
Feb 7, 2014 - 02:22pm PT
Would be really hard to beat White Punks on Dope for best 5.8 climb. Or Braille Book. Commitment to Sellangenella is a logical link up for 7 amazing pitches that are about 5.7-8. One move on commitment is supposed to be a 5.9 but I think it is easier, especially compared to other climbs.

But still, I need to get out to woodfords and try those.
NutAgain!

Trad climber
South Pasadena, CA
Feb 7, 2014 - 02:29pm PT
Via Aqua is 5.7

On top of cool multi-pitch climbing, you get awesome vistas and exposure, looking down on the tallest waterfall in North America with rainbow mist spewing about (if you pick the proper season), and you can link it up with Commitment and Selaginella that Vitaliy just recommended, which are both awesome climbs (but above the 5.7 threshold).

Ron Anderson

Trad climber
Relic MilkEye and grandpoobah of HBRKRNH
Feb 7, 2014 - 02:31pm PT
Who really knows the best 5.7? There are probably some in the Shasta T that would rival any. But i also know Chim and the Czar and their routes. So if they say its a full value deal, i tend to believe them. Two LIPS MUST be a viable contender.

And the All American Finger crack rates HIGH as a CA 5.8 as well. But by popularity alone the perfect lie back ranks HIGH. Theres been like three feet of dg removed from the base just by belayers! Ten years from now it will be another twenty feet longer lol!


ps,, one of the BEST 5.7 face climbs in KNEEVADA is "deadmans rappel". ;^)
Ron Anderson

Trad climber
Relic MilkEye and grandpoobah of HBRKRNH
Feb 7, 2014 - 02:59pm PT
hehehe...Well it IZZZZ! ( N Nevada)...;^)

And RED BEARD Too! ( biased~~puurhaps)
Laine

Trad climber
Reno, NV
Feb 7, 2014 - 03:12pm PT
Here be it. Good stuff, especially the handcrack at the top.
2lips
2lips
Credit: Laine
upper handcrack.  More please.
upper handcrack. More please.
Credit: Laine
mucci

Trad climber
The pitch of Bagalaar above you
Feb 7, 2014 - 03:20pm PT
Really?


I do love the chossradery you guys got going on up there.




Elcapinyoazz

Social climber
Joshua Tree
Feb 7, 2014 - 03:20pm PT
ElCap,, you ever been to Woodfords

Why would I drive all the way up there, passing JT, the Needles, the Valley, Courtright, Cal & Hammer Domes,Balch Camp, SEKI, etc, along the way, all of which are 1000x times better, to climb on that little hill of choss?

EDIT: Just saw the pic above of Tulips. You've got to be kidding.
Ron Anderson

Trad climber
Relic MilkEye and grandpoobah of HBRKRNH
Feb 7, 2014 - 03:23pm PT
ahhh that would be a NO then.. Roger dat.

Well Royal Robbins, Warren Harding, Tm Herbert, Dick Long and many other Valley dudes thought it to be worthy...;^) But then what do they know....
roy

Social climber
NZ -> SB,CA -> Zurich
Feb 7, 2014 - 03:23pm PT
As we seem to be casting votes here - I'll put the upper pitch of West Crack on Daff Dome into the ring. Double Dog Leg is also right up there. Mental Physics was perhaps a bit oversold when I did it. Still a fantastic climb though. Stiff competition.

Cheers, Roy
Laine

Trad climber
Reno, NV
Feb 7, 2014 - 03:31pm PT
WML - good thing your taste in music does not reflect your opinion on routes. ;)

I feel like cake now...
Vitaliy M.

Mountain climber
San Francisco
Feb 7, 2014 - 03:31pm PT
Looks like 30-40 feet of crack in a random corner. With trees and crap around it. Maybe some ok climbing for short distance but not something to drive for. Based on the photo only...it is awesome you guys are having a blast putting up new routes there though, wish I lived closer. FOR SURE would be out there often.
Elcapinyoazz

Social climber
Joshua Tree
Feb 7, 2014 - 03:32pm PT
Dolphin and White Lighting in JT are better than your Tulips on my Organ rig up there in Chuffords.

Dolphin:


Photo:MP

Ron Anderson

Trad climber
Relic MilkEye and grandpoobah of HBRKRNH
Feb 7, 2014 - 03:36pm PT
V,,,there are four to seven pitch climbs there. There are still the best possibly waiting. Check out "the hand of God"...Check out "power surge"

And go there pick out a virgin splitter and DOOOEEEET! Go to the "orange wall" and "pinnacles" area. i P-R-O-M-I-S-E youll be impressed.
Ron Anderson

Trad climber
Relic MilkEye and grandpoobah of HBRKRNH
Feb 7, 2014 - 03:46pm PT
Vittles,, this is "power surge" 2nd pitch. From Cultureshock on here in the woodfords thread..



photo not found
Missing photo ID#344038

High Energy wall Woodfords canyon, "Summer" side..
skcreidc

Social climber
SD, CA
Feb 7, 2014 - 03:52pm PT
the other day when I first stumbled into this thread, I checked it out on Mountain Project. There, Laine hisself has two-lips rated 5.8 and 2 stars...no pics. Looks nice to me...but I'll be dammed if I will ever fully get ratings. Seem somewhat beholdent to how well the day is going. hand of god, on the other hand, looks really, really sweet.

Now the cat's out of the bag, Woodfords is going to look like Malibu on a summer Saturday.
Laine

Trad climber
Reno, NV
Feb 7, 2014 - 03:58pm PT
skcreidc - I felt it was 5.8 (but I'm not solid at the grade like Dan). And I did post a pic on MP.

As for HoG, I've done p1 and p4 and you are correct, stellar stuff(assuming the roof pitch doesn't suck). Hoping to rope the infamous Mark Bauer into an ascent by spring time (wishful thinking I imagine).
skcreidc

Social climber
SD, CA
Feb 7, 2014 - 04:08pm PT
Laine, must have missed that photo somehow. The shot you posted here of two lips looks really fun though. And those comments about ratings were actually more generic and not towards you at all. I consider ratings as "general" guidelines, and if someone asked me my opinion...I tend to defer to someone with more confidence.
Laine

Trad climber
Reno, NV
Feb 7, 2014 - 04:30pm PT
No worries, S. I did not take offense, and as a rule never do on these forums (my virtual skin is thick).
Ron Anderson

Trad climber
Relic MilkEye and grandpoobah of HBRKRNH
Feb 7, 2014 - 04:31pm PT
Laine, if its any consolation,, i DID smell a snadbag right off here..lol!
kennyt

Trad climber
Oregon
Feb 7, 2014 - 04:52pm PT
It all looks good to me.
Ron Anderson

Trad climber
Relic MilkEye and grandpoobah of HBRKRNH
Feb 7, 2014 - 04:54pm PT
Its KENNY..! You gonna make it for woodfest 0-14?
Byran

climber
San Jose, CA
Feb 7, 2014 - 04:57pm PT
I think my favorite pitch of 5.7 crack in CA is the handcrack corner at the top of The Yawn in Tuolumne. Steep, fun, perfect rock, and a satisfyingly long pitch. Here's someone else's photo of it
http://www.mountainproject.com/v/106224124

But you do have to climb 5.9 to get to it.
kennyt

Trad climber
Oregon
Feb 7, 2014 - 04:58pm PT
Hey Ron, the truth is I'm actually being treated for cancer right now. I have some surgerys ahead of me but if all gos we'll I'll be down this summer for few weeks
kennyt

Trad climber
Oregon
Feb 7, 2014 - 05:07pm PT
Thanks Weston
Ron Anderson

Trad climber
Relic MilkEye and grandpoobah of HBRKRNH
Feb 7, 2014 - 05:08pm PT
DAMMMMIT!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!


Beat that CRAP KENNY!! Soooooo sorry to hear of this.....
Laine

Trad climber
Reno, NV
Feb 7, 2014 - 05:09pm PT
Really bummed to hear that news, Kenny.

But you will beat it, of that I am sure.
KP Ariza

climber
SCC
Feb 7, 2014 - 05:12pm PT
Never met you dude but I'll second that one for f*#king sure. ^^^

Chim-Chim

climber
Topic Author's Reply - Feb 7, 2014 - 05:17pm PT
Sorry Two-Lips is a two star 5.8, I stand corrected...sorry. Good luck Kenny we ak ll miss you down here. Dank.
kennyt

Trad climber
Oregon
Feb 7, 2014 - 07:15pm PT
Thanks guys,hope to be climbing this summer

In my opinion everything in woodfords climbs better than it looks
enjoimx

Trad climber
SLO
Feb 10, 2014 - 03:20am PT
So I was right. Corrugation Corner for the win.
brett

climber
oregon
Feb 18, 2014 - 11:54am PT
Dolphin best at making people cry, maybe.
Patrick

Trad climber
Reno, NV
Feb 18, 2014 - 12:39pm PT
I've really enjoyed climbing at Woodfords and there are some great climbs up there, but some of the zealots are getting a little nuts over this place. Two lips was fun and had some really good movement on it, but there was also some stuff that made the climb less than classic (ledgey and blocky stuff in the middle, some loose rock, etc). That can be said about a lot of stuff at Woodfords, however. Best 5.7 (I'd buy 5.8 as well) at Woodfords, maybe. Best 5.7 in Cali? Not by a long shot.
Chim-Chim

climber
Topic Author's Reply - Feb 18, 2014 - 12:52pm PT
Dude, I was kidding around. Besides Two-Lips is the only 5.7 at the fords. Also please define zealot, I'm at a loss>
Ron Anderson

Trad climber
Relic MilkEye and grandpoobah of HBRKRNH
Feb 18, 2014 - 12:58pm PT
Mr Dan K,,, Youve done MUCH in "the Fords". Your love of the area shows and is appreciated by EVERY SINGLE PERSON to ever walk up the semi vertical pismo beach that is "the Fords" approaches. So you get labeled a zealot,, and in my book that is OTAY.. OF COURSE the "best" anything will never be defined and or agreed upon. And that is OTAY tu...
Laine

Trad climber
Reno, NV
Feb 18, 2014 - 02:24pm PT
Hey Dan - I updated the mtn project description to reflect the original rating. I thought you said it was 5.8 when you showed it too me but I stand corrected.

Hopefully gonna get over there one day this weekend.
Patrick

Trad climber
Reno, NV
Feb 18, 2014 - 02:32pm PT
Zealot = fanatic.

Its all good, and the work you're putting in at the 'Fords is greatly appreciated. I can certainly understand the promotion of an area you've put so much time and energy into.
skcreidc

Social climber
SD, CA
Feb 18, 2014 - 02:34pm PT
zealot = enthusiastic, generally a good thing. UNLESS we are talking religion in which case LOOK OUT!
Jebus H Bomz

climber
Peavine Basecamp
Feb 18, 2014 - 04:32pm PT
Hey Chim, thought there was also a 5.7 by CSF? Woodfords abides.
Ron Anderson

Trad climber
Relic MilkEye and grandpoobah of HBRKRNH
Feb 18, 2014 - 04:40pm PT
Theres a nice 5.7 on the Apron, a very nice 5.7 crack near CSF, and even a bolted one on bandit crag.
Ksolem

Trad climber
Monrovia, California
Feb 18, 2014 - 05:48pm PT
The best 5.7 crack in CA has to be the "Living Corner," P2 of Romantic Warrior in the CA Needles. But the price of admission is some funky 5.10, and of course there is what lies above...
Chim-Chim

climber
Topic Author's Reply - Feb 18, 2014 - 08:00pm PT
I gave all those climbs a 5.8 rating:) Dank Kinda stiff
Jebus H Bomz

climber
Peavine Basecamp
Feb 18, 2014 - 09:03pm PT
Needles probably has a few of the legitimate best pitches in California, Kris! Man, wish I'd finagled a trip there this season.

Edit: that scrappy little corner by CSF is 5.8, Dan? I thought 5.7 is spot on. Same difference, I guess.
Chim-Chim

climber
Topic Author's Reply - Feb 18, 2014 - 09:16pm PT
Jebus, down-soloed,, after topping out on a new route...didn't feel like walking down and around, and up from the descent gully to the west felt like 5.9++. Dank
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