RAD System for Top-Rope Soloing


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Boulder climber
San Diego
Aug 9, 2015 - 10:58pm PT
Too much expensive hardware for me to really care enough to try it.

I was thinking of a simpler method, perhaps a bit more dangerous.

The method would mean tying upwards of 4-8 inline figure 8 knots with a loop into a standard dynamic rope. The loops/knots should be placed about 5 feet apart, you would then walk to the top of the climb and very securely attach it to a SOLID anchor, 3 bomber attachment points mandatory.

Recommended using 7-9mm power cord to synch the normal double harness loops together so that fall forces would be on the intended part of the harness, after synching the loops close together, knot the cord with a figure 8 leaving a loop with a very solid knot to keep the cord tied together, that loop will then be your clip in point, and its intended to prevent cross-loading a carabiner. You could also use two cords for redundancy.

Simply put you will clip yourself into each loop as you climb. From here you would have several options for clipping in.

1. Each loop would have its own carabiner, you will remove one carabiner for each one you clip in as you climb
2. Use only two carabiners, one will stay clipped into your harness while you move the other carabiner to the next loop on the rope
3. Leave every carabiner and loop of rope clipped into your harness for extra redundancy

The main problem that this will permit is the lack of shock mitigation that having a belayer would normally provide.

I'm thinking if you could get your hands on an industrial size spring device, perhaps something similar to those large spring scales that were once used to weigh large chunks of meat on a large hanging scale during older times, they could provide some mitigation of shock loading to prevent short rope falls. I'm sure there is some sort of device still in use today in the industrial world that does just this and probably doesn't cost a ton.

Welp, that's my idea for a simple rope solo'ing method. Has anyone tried something similar? Would anyone think this idea to not be too crazy? I'd be willing to give it a shot on a relatively easy climb if anyone wanted to see it tested...
Gnome Ofthe Diabase

Out Of Bed
Aug 10, 2015 - 12:32am PT
Often clipped high and low. - Sometimes using locking or doubles 'biners, and completely separate points of pro. To hang - or not, but gives a third , at the ready - backup to the backups.
That is my redundant system, I have a pre tied dynamic rope with loops custom set at various points along the length of rope. for a specific project. Sometimes very tight ,small loops that 'lock' the 'biners' orientation
when I have had to I have fixed the rope with clip in points on both sides of the anchor point. This when for directional or something, overgrown or needing work, I leave that bit set with ( trickery ) any thing from prussic to the wall- hauler. ( if that makes any sense?)haha hay your mileage WILL vary!


I can't tell from your post but - two independent lines anchored at the top.-

I am on a' semi-static' 'program' rope through the Gri" " also by adding weight to this line you creat a self feeding (ish) set up . Here the OP adds . . . . . .and there is nothing wrong with that.

Getting the climbing line weight rite - the amount of slack if it or the back-up are fixed. Has been key.

I am a big fan of both the Croll and the Shunt, and as I showed, for entertainment, and curiosity, the 'Robot ' which does an awesome job.

. . . . . . . . .. . . ..
After this thread some climbers that I had known for many years got the chopp TR rope soling,
The causes of the catastrophic failure were all user error, no one will ever know for sure, bees? A moment of incomprehensible lack of focus? Due to complacency?, no way to know hard to comprehend.

I have since substantially cut back on roped soloing and looked in to getting a modern device.

I have used the same soloing system for years and only once ever had the misfortune to fall slowly, thus sliding, not locking the Gri" " I was clipped in to loops low and slid off into space. That was on vertical to over hanging terrain though. Then to trolley or pull in to get back on the rock, requires the climber to be at risk of stock loading that protection, ( no 'dentil floss' draws) if they blow off short directly onto the backup looped line so it is key that dynamic webbing or climbing rope is used. . . . . . .

back from re reading your post.

CHEST HARNESS! I was also able to go with out and in a pinch use an over the shoulder noose! Ha ha, any way it sounds like you have it right.

But you should never trust any information that you see on the Internet, it is worth being shown how to use the newest and best technology available by a person who knows what they are doing , and then, doing it in front of that person on a third top rope with a standard belay.
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