Roadside Destruction? seeking route info

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Messages 1 - 16 of total 16 in this topic
Ed Hartouni

Trad climber
Livermore, CA
Topic Author's Original Post - Feb 5, 2014 - 03:06am PT
Roadside Destruction Tucker Tech and Ray Olson, 1989

anyone know this route?

perhaps between Dale's Pin Job and Van Belle O Drome

this just in

climber
north fork
Feb 5, 2014 - 10:50am PT
Sorry Ed don't know it, but are you writing a guidebook?
Ed Hartouni

Trad climber
Livermore, CA
Topic Author's Reply - Feb 5, 2014 - 03:18pm PT
...I'm a co-author on a guide book...
this just in

climber
north fork
Feb 5, 2014 - 03:25pm PT
Right on, look forward to it, thanks for the hard work.
KP Ariza

climber
SCC
Feb 5, 2014 - 03:37pm PT
Hey Ed,

Don't know about RD but I was wondering if you know anything about the route I've marked with the dotted line in this photo? I used to look at it through binos from the Reeds pull out. It appears that it has recently been scrubbed and climbed. I always thought it looked great. Continuous crack systems that link from ground to summit.


Clint Cummins

Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
Feb 5, 2014 - 06:00pm PT
Vegemite 5.10+, FA 1989 by Greg and Elliott, who post here.
Clint Cummins

Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
Feb 5, 2014 - 06:07pm PT
> Roadside Destruction
My notes have it between Dale's Pin Job (aka Dale's World's Hardest) and Van Belle O Drome, which puts it on the same cliff.
It's pretty much roadside, so shouldn't be hard to check out, except for the poison oak which has likely grown back.
My photograph of the cliff is from just across the river, but many of the climbs are obscured by trees.
(The solution may be to climb the tree in the center of the photo?)
Dale's Pin Job looks darn hard - pretty overhanging.
KP Ariza

climber
SCC
Feb 5, 2014 - 06:27pm PT
Thanks Clint. Always wondered about that line.
Rhodo-Router

Gym climber
sawatch choss
Feb 5, 2014 - 06:32pm PT
I thought Hard Farm Labor was the scrub job.
Clint Cummins

Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
Feb 5, 2014 - 06:46pm PT
Yeah, I believe Greg and Elliott onsighted and didn't scrub.

Actually it looks like Vegemite climbs the crack system right of the dotted line in Ken's photo, until it ends up in that final chimney with the dotted line.
So if the scrubbed arete is the dotted line, that is mostly separate from Vegemite.

The vague description of Hard Farm Labor in the AAJ as "left of the Rostrum" and 8 pitches made me think it was not close to Vegemite, which is 6 pitches.
KP Ariza

climber
SCC
Feb 5, 2014 - 07:46pm PT
Hard Farm Labor? Cool. That was the line that we used to scope. Difficulty and quality?

Also, not my photo. Swiped it from Vitaly's Rostrum Thread.
RyanD

climber
Squamish
Feb 5, 2014 - 08:16pm PT
Really diggin' these little route info threads guys. Especially when there is photos involved. Thanks.
E Robinson

climber
Salinas, CA
Feb 6, 2014 - 01:51am PT
Here's our topo of Vegemite. My memories have always been on the fuzzy side of things, but I think we were pretty close to where the dotted line is...always wanted the area to keep its natural wild state...bummer about the scrubbing...we're kind of an invasive species: pruning and building little roads where there really should be none. Not to preach, just to sigh.
David Wilson

climber
CA
Feb 6, 2014 - 10:36am PT
knowing how Greg and Elliot were climbing, that 10+ rating is probably a sanbagaggio
KP Ariza

climber
SCC
Feb 6, 2014 - 11:36am PT
Hey Elliot,
Good to hear you're doing well. I had heard you did something over there years ago just didn't know what. Thanks for the topo. I always thought that column had potential. It's fun for me to reminisce about lines we used to scope and what became of them.
Epic

Big Wall climber
SLC, UT
Aug 4, 2015 - 08:38pm PT
The name of that route is Hard Farm labor put up in 03 by James Adamson and Nick Fowler.
The line is left of Vegemite. It's been awhile but we thought the route went at 11b/c.
Great line linking subtle crack systems pretty much all the way up. I have a hand drawn topo that I will gladly email anyone interested. Just PM me.
Would love to hear from anyone who's climbed it.
FYI: was never scrubed by the original accent party.
Messages 1 - 16 of total 16 in this topic
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