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Chicken Skinner
Trad climber
Yosemite
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Topic Author's Original Post - Aug 2, 2006 - 08:31pm PT
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Slider nuts for parallel cracks. I have a full set of five sizes.
A giant 4" nut. I have only one of these.
Does anyone else have any Porter gear? If so please share.
Ken
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WBraun
climber
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Hey Ken
What happened to that cam nut that Charlie made that I gave you?
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Chicken Skinner
Trad climber
Yosemite
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 2, 2006 - 08:50pm PT
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Werner,
I am sure it is in the twenty or so boxes of stuff that still needs to be catalogued. When I find it I will post a picture. The cataloging is slow going and not my favorite thing to do, fortunately I have help or I would be doing it for the next ten years.
Ken
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healyje
Trad climber
Portland, Oregon
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I picked up a brand new, never used set of those "PE" labeled DuoSlider Nuts and Square Bashies of Charlie's for Stephane's Nut Museum last year (I sent Marty a couple as well I think...). They kind of slipped by unnoticed on ebay from a long abandoned U-Store cubicle I believe. Werner, you didn't think much of the Bashies when I posted this photo before. Love the big i-beam nut job...
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WBraun
climber
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healyje
I used those bashies, they were the predecessor to the copperheads.
They sucked, especially when they became fixed. The big fat one you show in your photo when fixed you can drive a thin pointed angle straight into it's heart and tie it off and it will work.
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healyje
Trad climber
Portland, Oregon
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Werner, I believe that on both counts...
Ken, I still have the dupe #5 bashie in the photo if you don't have one of these...
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Chicken Skinner
Trad climber
Yosemite
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 3, 2006 - 02:09am PT
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healyje,
I would love to have a #5. I may have smaller sizes. It is always nice to have some sort of story or history of the piece. Obviously this one wasn't used but where it came from would be interesting. I would bet it would work well in wide pin scars like the first pitch of Serenity. I think they were designed for shallow cracks that had been nailed out to a larger angle tip size.
Ken
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healyje
Trad climber
Portland, Oregon
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Ken, I wish there was a story but they were out of an abandoned U-Store unit in Sac. Would be glad to send the #5 on to you...
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nutstory
climber
Ajaccio, Corsica, France
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Jan 16, 2012 - 10:55am PT
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nutstory
climber
Ajaccio, Corsica, France
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Jan 16, 2012 - 11:10am PT
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But they ain't for sale. (...and I don't "donate" much.) "heartless man" (I joke)
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PhilG
Trad climber
The Circuit, Tonasket WA
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Jan 16, 2012 - 12:59pm PT
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Ken:
You inspired me to dig through an old box of old gear. I lived with Charlie at Briceburg when he was making nuts. He let me and Sandy (who was pregnant with Jon) live there rent free if I would help out with his manufacturing. The nuts pictured below were from that time (1973).
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Jan 16, 2012 - 01:05pm PT
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Only one Porter nut in my collection thanks to Jim Bridwell and Birdfest!
Milled from 1 1/2" aluminum hexagonal stock.
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PhilG
Trad climber
The Circuit, Tonasket WA
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Jan 16, 2012 - 01:29pm PT
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My guess, Steve, is that nut is from a later run: he left out the "E"
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WBraun
climber
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Jan 16, 2012 - 01:34pm PT
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Phil
That was cool shop Charlie had in Briceburg huh?
Those were some funny times down there watching Charlie getting all excited in his shop.
What a great character, a real rare one of a kind ......
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Jan 16, 2012 - 01:35pm PT
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Hey Phil- Did Charlie have a name for this shape? Any idea what the "E" meant?
Anyone have a Porter Hatchethead RURP for show and tell?
When he lead the triple cracks on the Shield, I don't think that he was using stock Chouinard RURPS but I have never been able to confirm that.
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scuffy b
climber
heading slowly NNW
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Jan 16, 2012 - 03:15pm PT
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When I bought mine, there was definitely a name, which I can only guess at
now. Rollercam, camhex, who knows?
Those hexes were really heavy.
Porter Equipment?
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Minerals
Social climber
The Deli
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Jan 16, 2012 - 03:56pm PT
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Ken, is that the Porter gear that I gave to you? Looks familiar.
Edit:
Any interest in these Porter hangers, Ken?
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PhilG
Trad climber
The Circuit, Tonasket WA
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Jan 16, 2012 - 06:44pm PT
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Steve: if my memory serves me well, the "E" stood for engineering. He called his start-up nut manufacturing: "Porter Engineering." Perhaps later he dropped the E.
Werner: absolutely right. It was great fun hanging out with Charlie and he got very worked-up and excited when he started turning out nuts. And I agree with you on the quality of the man. At this point I have met and climbed with a lot of people. He was truly one of a kind.
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nutstory
climber
Ajaccio, Corsica, France
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Jan 17, 2012 - 09:26am PT
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Steve: if my memory serves me well, the "E" stood for engineering. He called his start-up nut manufacturing: "Porter Engineering." Perhaps later he dropped the E. Very interesting! I have always thought that the “E” stood for Equipment, like Chouinard Equipment, referring to the interview by Chappie and George Bracksieck in Rock & Ice in1993, in which Charlie Porter says: “When I came out to Yosemite, my dream was to be a little bit like Chouinard and make pitons”.
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Jan 20, 2012 - 08:45pm PT
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Anyone have some of Charlie's dream pitons?
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nutstory
climber
Ajaccio, Corsica, France
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Jan 21, 2012 - 02:55am PT
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Only nuts Steve, only nuts... I promise.
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Jan 21, 2012 - 12:25pm PT
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It seems Porter pitons are rarer still...
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mctwisted
Social climber
paradise
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Jan 21, 2012 - 12:58pm PT
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ken, your post reminded me i have some forest (tetons?) that appear to be unused, any interest in these and i will get them to you
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PhilG
Trad climber
The Circuit, Tonasket WA
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Jan 23, 2012 - 02:17pm PT
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I thought this picture might be an appropriate addition to this thread. Here's Charlie standing outside of his shop on a summer's afternoon.
Note the stained hands from working metal. This was a great place to be summer of '73.
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nutstory
climber
Ajaccio, Corsica, France
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Jan 24, 2012 - 02:46am PT
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Awesome photograph PhilG! I tried to figure out what Charlie Porter’s workshop looked like… Thank you very much for posting such an historical document here.
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nutstory
climber
Ajaccio, Corsica, France
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Jan 25, 2012 - 03:09am PT
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Something I'd like to see is the notched alum blocks CP used in conjunction with pins to pro Excalibur. "You could belay off those things...they were bomber!" I would also love to see these Porter aluminum blocks. I would suspect that they worked in a rather similar way like the “block channels” produced by Peck Climbing Equipment in England during the sixties.
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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More Porter Equipment!
Cool Peck Blocks Stephane!
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tom Carter
Social climber
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Werner or Phil
Was that the bus (in the pic) that Bev and/or Charlie drove into the Merced that day?
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PhilG
Trad climber
The Circuit, Tonasket WA
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Tom:
Don't recall that story. I left the Valley shortly after I took that picture.
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nutstory
climber
Ajaccio, Corsica, France
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Phil, do you have any other photographs taken inside Charlie’s workshop…?
“you may say I'm a dreamer…”
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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Up early Phil, I'm in Coyhaique, Chile waiting to jump on a plane back to Estados Unidos. Charlie, by the way, now lives on the island of Chiloe just to the NW of here.
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Darwin
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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These are from the "Odd pieces of gear that never really caught on"
thread.
I can't remember if these are mine or Matt Pollock's, but I think the gold tape is mine.
The following is a link to a story in that thread that I wrote and Clint posted about getting them. Clint kindly edited out references I made to being in an altered state of reality.
http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.php?topic_id=1335975&msg=1336867#msg1336867
It's funny, after I had stopped climbing (subsequently resumed), I completely by coincidence ran into Porter at a pension in Punta Arenas, Chile around 1980. He spoke very interesting Spanish.
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ms55401
Trad climber
minneapolis, mn
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May 14, 2012 - 10:02pm PT
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anyone know where CP's '73 shop (in the photo) was at (town, state)?
also, might someone know what gear he took on his Cassin climb? really curious about that, and whether anyone else was on that part of the mountain at the time
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Chicken Skinner
Trad climber
Yosemite
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Topic Author's Reply - May 14, 2012 - 10:52pm PT
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His workshop was at Bryceburg. It is still there on the right traveling Highway 140 from El Portal West toward Mariposa at the start of the grade as it leaves the Merced River.
Ken
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