Alpine Dream Team

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Messages 1 - 16 of total 16 in this topic
Brian

climber
California
Topic Author's Original Post - Jan 8, 2014 - 09:08pm PT
The American Alpine Club is proud to announce its 2014 Lyman Spitzer Cutting Edge Awards. This grant, made possible by the generous support of Lyman Spitzer Jr., promotes state-of-the-art, cutting-edge climbing through financial support of small, lightweight climbing teams attempting bold first ascents or difficult repeats of the most challenging routes in the world.

...Kyle Dempster, Urban Novak, Hayden Kennedy: A new route up Gasherbrum 4 (Pakistan Karakoram) via the west-facing "Shining Wall" known for its intense difficulty and beauty….

Now that's a badass trio for a badass project.

mouse from merced

Trad climber
The finger of fate, my friends, is fickle.
Jan 8, 2014 - 09:11pm PT
Why are we not included, Brian?

We're lightweights, after all. And I mean at the back of the line.

What about my ascent of the Whining Wall? Geeze, Louise...

Slightly miffed in merdeath,
Brian/Mouse
donini

Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
Jan 8, 2014 - 09:33pm PT
Love those guys....they send and don't spew.
Gene

climber
Jan 8, 2014 - 10:02pm PT
A worthy goal. Godspeed!
Ron Anderson

Trad climber
Relic MilkEye and grandpoobah of HBRKRNH
Jan 8, 2014 - 10:07pm PT
The American alpine club has IGNORED not only "Sleds over Everest", but also the future "Sleds upda NOSE" as well. They have no vision there. It is where climbing is headed.
donini

Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
Jan 8, 2014 - 10:09pm PT
Yo Ron, I have some pull, I'll see what I can do.
Vitaliy M.

Mountain climber
San Francisco
Jan 8, 2014 - 11:59pm PT
7,925 m peak.

10,000 ft west face has a route by Robert Schauer (Austria) and Wojciech Kurtyka (Poland). In 1985. Stopped on north summit due to bad weather.

Also, Central Spur of the west face climbed by a Korean team in 1997.

Any route overlays or proposed route overlays? The face looks great.

How the hell do you get a visa to get in there?! I heard it is really hard for Americans these days..
Ham and Eggs

Mountain climber
Aoraki/Mt Cook Village
Jan 9, 2014 - 06:36am PT
Vitaliy: use to have to get in touch with the Pakistan Ministry of Tourism but they disbanded as a govt. dept. in 2011. These days you go through your local Pakistani High Commission - pretty straight forward.

The guys may have 'space' on their climbing permit if you wanted to hang out. Can also get in touch with a couple of the westerners that guide GIi and Broad if interested in some non-guided mountaineering - they will often have spare 'space' on their permits for sale.

It's usually 4k for the first 5 guys and 1000 or so for each additional on GIV. You could solo/scramble the Woolums route on Great Trango for your first visit - might be headed there next year with some Boulder locals

gf

climber
Jan 9, 2014 - 09:32am PT
Mr Stump would get a kick about the generational connection to G4
AP

Trad climber
Calgary
Jan 9, 2014 - 10:31am PT
Lyman Spitzer was the first guy to think of putting a telescope in orbit. He was basically responsible for the Hubble telescope but never worked on it directly. Apparently he was from a well off family and liked to climb, hence the award.
Bump for scientist/climbers! A few other climbers: Enrico Fermi, Frank Sacherer, Henry Kendall
Johnny K.

climber
Jan 10, 2014 - 09:50am PT

Bruce Kay

Gym climber
BC
Jan 10, 2014 - 09:55am PT
A repeat or the pillar that his old man tried? Not too many other options jump out on that wall
bluegreyguy

climber
sf, ca
Jul 16, 2014 - 05:47pm PT
Bump for update on the GIV climb this summer... anyone heard anything?
ms55401

Trad climber
minneapolis, mn
Jul 16, 2014 - 06:06pm PT
this sounds great. I only hope that the line is not just independent of the Kurtkya-Schauer route, but is non-contrived, hopefully even aesthetic

beautiful wall
Johnny K.

climber
Sep 4, 2014 - 01:30pm PT
Alpine UP!
ms55401

Trad climber
minneapolis, mn
Sep 11, 2014 - 07:50pm PT
apparently, only Kyle set foot in the mountains: http://www.alpinist.com/doc/web14x/wfeature-dempster-novak-expensive-lemonade

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