Topic Author's Original Post - Jan 8, 2014 - 09:08pm PT
The American Alpine Club is proud to announce its 2014 Lyman Spitzer Cutting Edge Awards. This grant, made possible by the generous support of Lyman Spitzer Jr., promotes state-of-the-art, cutting-edge climbing through financial support of small, lightweight climbing teams attempting bold first ascents or difficult repeats of the most challenging routes in the world.
...Kyle Dempster, Urban Novak, Hayden Kennedy: A new route up Gasherbrum 4 (Pakistan Karakoram) via the west-facing "Shining Wall" known for its intense difficulty and beauty….
Vitaliy: use to have to get in touch with the Pakistan Ministry of Tourism but they disbanded as a govt. dept. in 2011. These days you go through your local Pakistani High Commission - pretty straight forward.
The guys may have 'space' on their climbing permit if you wanted to hang out. Can also get in touch with a couple of the westerners that guide GIi and Broad if interested in some non-guided mountaineering - they will often have spare 'space' on their permits for sale.
It's usually 4k for the first 5 guys and 1000 or so for each additional on GIV. You could solo/scramble the Woolums route on Great Trango for your first visit - might be headed there next year with some Boulder locals
Lyman Spitzer was the first guy to think of putting a telescope in orbit. He was basically responsible for the Hubble telescope but never worked on it directly. Apparently he was from a well off family and liked to climb, hence the award.
Bump for scientist/climbers! A few other climbers: Enrico Fermi, Frank Sacherer, Henry Kendall