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Messages 1 - 157 of total 157 in this topic |
henny
Social climber
The Past
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Topic Author's Original Post - Dec 30, 2013 - 10:30pm PT
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Yeah, it's still a day or two early. But I guess the early bird gets the worm, eh?
If you have some pictures to post to get this thread going, have at it. If you don't have any, then go get some to post.
I don't have any new pictures yet, something I hope to remedy in a week or so. But to get things started here's a couple from a year or two back.
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Lynne Leichtfuss
Sport climber
moving thru
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Dec 30, 2013 - 10:43pm PT
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Is that our incredible Jonny Woodward? Special person, fantastic climber....and many would die for his curly locks. Cheers, Happy New Year.
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F10
Trad climber
Bishop
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Dec 30, 2013 - 11:17pm PT
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Saw this thread and thought I missed out on spending New Years Eve in JT
Ok it's still 2013, carry on and post some more cool stuff
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Johannsolo
climber
Soul Cal
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Dec 31, 2013 - 01:28am PT
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I'll be there on the first for my start to a new year and season. Spent the Spring, Summer and Fall at Suicide and the last two months at JT ( including a few trips to Rubidoux). Feeling real good.
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Johannsolo
climber
Soul Cal
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Dec 31, 2013 - 01:54am PT
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Here's one from today. This one needs to be bouldered out.
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Johannsolo
climber
Soul Cal
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Dec 31, 2013 - 02:03am PT
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Sorry, back to Woodson.
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Doug Tomczik
climber
Bishop
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Dec 31, 2013 - 04:19pm PT
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Here's a photo of Greg posing on an arete that Mark and I climbed last year. Does anyone know the history surrounding this rig? Good rock and fun climbing...two bolts up top for an anchor...
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jonnywoodward
climber
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Dec 31, 2013 - 07:37pm PT
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So glad to see that the Woodson thread is off to a good early start next year. DH one-upmanship at its finest. I must say, 2013 seemed like a slow one for the hillock. Was everyone at the Riverside quarry or was it just that there was nothing about the Silk Banana to absorb 400 posts? BTW, Silk Banana is probably at least V8 if you do it one handed. Sick power and body tension. Right handed might be easier than left. That should do it.
Happy new year, drink up, and remember... it's only fun after someone loses an eye.
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ron gomez
Trad climber
fallbrook,ca
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Dec 31, 2013 - 08:07pm PT
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Hey Jonny, kelly and I are looking forward to seeing you if you get the chance, have you set up for Rainbow with a "local" for a grand tour of a wonderful bouldering area. Have fun, be safe, give a ringalingding, dinner and grog!
Peace
Edit: them old Scarpa's you wearing? Have a pair that need a toe patch, great shoes
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henny
Social climber
The Past
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Topic Author's Reply - Dec 31, 2013 - 11:17pm PT
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I still think the Coathanger as a highball would be a sporty deal. If something went wrong it would be hard to stay off the road given that hillside/landing. But at least with the road closed to traffic there wouldn't be the insult of getting run over added to the injury of ending up there - hahaha. okay, maybe not.
Cool, counting down a few more days, then meeting JW, Johann, Doug, and whoever else at Woodson. Good times coming up.
Johann, if you're there tomorrow post some pictures.
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ron gomez
Trad climber
fallbrook,ca
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Dec 31, 2013 - 11:25pm PT
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Oh, dang Daryl, thought he maybe made it down a bit early. Look forward to seeing the old man once he arrives.
Peace
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henny
Social climber
The Past
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Topic Author's Reply - Dec 31, 2013 - 11:55pm PT
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Ron, as far as I know he's still planning to arrive Sunday.
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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Is right now prime season down there??
I know nothing of the area but all the pics I see make it look amazing!
Rainbow looks rad too, got to see some maps & pics & it looks high quality. Was offered a tour but have never got down that way, all looks super awesome.
One day.
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ron gomez
Trad climber
fallbrook,ca
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Thanks Henny, he called a couple weeks back, hope to have him over, join us if yer around, gonna have a friend take him to Rainbow Boulders, you should join them.
Peace
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henny
Social climber
The Past
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 2, 2014 - 05:21pm PT
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RyanD - since none of the locals who live in the area are responding to your question, Jan and Feb are usually pretty good for Woodson (IMO). This year seems it may be a little different since we're in a drought and the temps reflect the lack of weather. Next week is forecast to be low/mid 70s, which is a bit warm. Nonetheless, winter months are the best.
Ron - yeah, I used to go to Rainbow a fair bit before it was bought. It has been a long time since I was there so I'm sure there's stacks of new stuff I haven't seen. My schedule is kind of tight with work and the likes, I'll see what JW's plans are and if there is a fit, sounds good.
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ron gomez
Trad climber
fallbrook,ca
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Cool! Hope you can make it, Rainbow has killer rock, sticky as schit, great edges, etc. The two of you sould have a blast putting up some new stuff. I too haven't been since the 80's with Nay-Gro, Mike Paul...the ususal crew, it was a blast then.
Peace
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splitter
Trad climber
SoCal Hodad, surfing the galactic plane
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"since none of the locals..."
shortly after he inquired i did drain my brain (not a whole lot there at this point) and gave him my opinion. i typed it all on my cell phone which takes forever and you have to repeat each word 3-4 times before you get it right with a finger nail on a 3 inch screen. and when i went to post it...it didn't/had vanished. so i wasn't about to do it again, especially since my battery was low and figured someone else would answer him in the next post or two. but, it's the thought that counts, eh? lol! didn't check back in on this thread until now and was rather surprised (and disipointed) that someone hadn't responded to someone willing to make the voyage from so far away (or from anywhere, for that matter). so...
WUTDAFUKUPWOODSONRATS? ...justsayinbros!
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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Thanks for the reply henny, & splitter. Not sure when I'll be down that way but always lurked on the other Woodson thread & thought it would be a cool detour if I'm ever in the area. Cheers.
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Doug Tomczik
climber
Bishop
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Echoing what's been said, the best time to climb at woodson is definitely in the winter. Right now it's a little warm, but much cooler than summer. If you're only around during summer, it could be worth it to check out the area, but optimal conditions typically occur in winter during a post-rain, cold snap period.
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dirt claud
Social climber
san diego,ca
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I enjoy climbing there in the summer after 6:00. Stays light until almost 8:30 and the temps are usually just right. Catch some great sunsets and views of the lighted up city below.
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skcreidc
Social climber
SD, CA
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Since this seems to be the right thread for this... what's the deal with top roping Uncertainty Princliple? I haven't tried to check it out, but how do you access the top bolts? I was up there yesterday and was thinking that Uncertainty Princliple would possibly be good prep for this problem I spotted in AZ.
Not sure the photos show enough detail...but other suggestions (climbing related) are appreciated.
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Jon Clark
climber
philadelphia
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to the right of the UP face there is a slabby face with a couple of bolts on it. The first move is a funky mid to hard 5.10 mantle. The rest is 5.6ish.
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skcreidc
Social climber
SD, CA
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Thanks Jon. A mantle, hmmmmmm. Hopefully its a tall person mantle.
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darkmagus
Mountain climber
San Diego, CA
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Many people yard on a quickdraw to circumvent that mantel, to make getting to the anchors up top less of an ordeal. 5.6 A0! It's called "Bozo No No".
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p-owed
Trad climber
Ramona ca
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So many people up on the hill lately!
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ron gomez
Trad climber
fallbrook,ca
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So....what's the word on the hill boys? Any photos to share, stories, BS? Weathers been good, I hear reports of "jungle like" conditions.
Peace
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p-owed
Trad climber
Ramona ca
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Parking bed hikers many rocks getting climbed.
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henny
Social climber
The Past
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 8, 2014 - 02:39pm PT
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I did see someone famous last Sunday. Some people we saw said it was the HDTV guy from the photos. Never know who you're going to run into.
It was borderline hot, we were looking for shade. Planning to go again tomorrow, maybe I'll get some pictures this time.
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eliot carlsen
Social climber
San Francisco
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Jan 10, 2014 - 07:55pm PT
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New top ten list: What are the best one handed undercling traverse pitches on the hill?
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Truthdweller
Trad climber
San Diego, CA
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Jan 19, 2014 - 11:19pm PT
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It was borderline hot,
Hot? What's that?
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Truthdweller
Trad climber
San Diego, CA
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Jan 19, 2014 - 11:28pm PT
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Many people yard on a quickdraw to circumvent that mantel, to make getting to the anchors up top less of an ordeal. 5.6 A0! It's called "Bozo No No"
Eliot can attest that this "yard"ing is not necessary on this 10b, non-"mantel" move...
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Friend
climber
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Jan 30, 2014 - 05:45pm PT
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Yo BVB!
PM'd you but maybe you didn't get it.
What's the scoop with this mysterious "County Planning Commission" ?????
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Evel
Trad climber
Nedsterdam CO
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Jan 30, 2014 - 05:51pm PT
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Hey Now! I was just asked if I'd like a semi-free week-end in SD in early March. Any body be willing to show me around? Never been to Woodson.
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skcreidc
Social climber
SD, CA
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Jan 31, 2014 - 09:16am PT
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Nice shot Truthdweller. Good colors.
Ya know...MOST of those people are up there to get their picture taken on "potato chip flake". It made some list of top things to do before you kick your bucket or some such. I met a couple from New Zealand over here and that was on their "bucket list". I hardly see ANYBODY climbing in comparison...although I always see someone rigging up something or going for it.
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Truthdweller
Trad climber
San Diego, CA (stuck in Jersey)
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Feb 16, 2014 - 12:47am PT
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Hey Now! I was just asked if I'd like a semi-free week-end in SD in early March. Any body be willing to show me around? Never been to Woodsone
Dang it Jim! Always looking to do just that when I wandered up there...in Jersey now kicking the slush.
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Truthdweller
Trad climber
San Diego, CA (stuck in Jersey)
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Feb 17, 2014 - 10:30am PT
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[Mt. Woodso..]
High/Low/Precip
Mon: 70/50/0%
Tue: 66/46/0%
Wed: 63/49/5%
Thu: 70/47/6%
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dirt claud
Social climber
san diego,ca
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Feb 18, 2014 - 01:01pm PT
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Great day up on the mountain on saturday. Finally got the crucible. Frickin threw up after I got done, think I need more wide practice, LOL.
On another note. It seams a lot more people are heading up to Mt Wooddson due to the Meet up hiking groups and apparently there was some article put out in some magazine calling the potato chip rock "world re-nowned" which has brought more outsiders there. Not a problem except now there is a lot more trash lying around and I got super pissed of because there has been this little oak tree that got snapped in half. It was growing right out of this big boulder right off the road. That little guy has been trying to grow for years and I had seen that day and it got a few inches bigger. About an hour later when we were cruising back down, that little tree was snapped in half. Some stupid f@#&k decided it would be enjoyable to snap this tree, I have no idea why.
I don't mind people enjoying this place but all the added traffic has brought out some idiots too. The line for pictures on that potato chip rock was like two hours. I had no idea why people were even waiting for until the ranger told me.
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gonamok
climber
dont make me come over there
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Feb 21, 2014 - 11:32pm PT
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Wakes up, scratches ass, looks around... Woodson, Woodson....i remember that place
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gonamok
climber
dont make me come over there
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Feb 21, 2014 - 11:43pm PT
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Re: county planning commission, the research Ive done shows that most of Mt Woodson is owned by the city of san diego. The south slope and western half of the southern drainage is city of poway. The east side, including the road up to where the park rules sign is located is owned by the ramona water district, and the NE and north slope is city of ramona. The state of california owns a small amount of land around the cal fire station, and portions of the lower east and SE slope are privately owned. The exact boundaries of these jurisdictions arent available. As far as i could tell the only county administered land around woodson is the easement on the west side of hwy 67, which could be a big deal, because that includes parking and the trailhead. If anyone has heard anything about this planning commission, please email me at ronamick@gmail.com.
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gonamok
climber
dont make me come over there
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Feb 21, 2014 - 11:46pm PT
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Listen to Henny sounding all local! Or should i say "MT Woodson's own Darrel Hensel"? Well you are a local,and you too Jonnysolo, you guys are putting up most of the hard routes anyway.
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henny
Social climber
The Past
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 24, 2014 - 11:02am PT
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Ron, Ron, Ron.
I know you like to stir the pot a bit, but... Calling me a Woodson local is going just a little, well, too far.
On the other hand, Woodson has always been a good place to train for Rubidoux.
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Truthdweller
Trad climber
San Diego, CA (stuck in Jersey)
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Mar 15, 2014 - 01:56am PT
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Great day up on the mountain on saturday. Finally got the crucible. Frickin threw up after I got done, think I need more wide practice, LOL.
Awesome...
Claudioooooooooooooooooo! Good to see you're still out there. Dang, you must be near fifty now, aren't you, haha. Say hello to those that know me and be safe.
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skcreidc
Social climber
SD, CA
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Mar 28, 2014 - 11:58am PT
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Any hot tips on finding the Out of Sight boulder area. I seem to be spacing out on finding this area.... Rain or shine I'd like to find it this weekend.
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skcreidc
Social climber
SD, CA
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Mar 28, 2014 - 12:40pm PT
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Hey Adel! Climate change, politics, or reliability of Aliens?? Could be something to do if its raining...I'm looking to buy some Totems myself... ;) Your not going up there with Bonehead are ya??
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Friend
climber
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Mar 28, 2014 - 12:48pm PT
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Out of Sight:
at the last switchback before the microwave towers (where road turns left), take a right on a pretty well beaten trail.
After about 200 yards the trail goes down along the east side of a big boulder (i.e. the boulder is at your left shoulder.)
Out of Sight faces north so you can't see it until you get to the base.
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Friend
climber
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Mar 28, 2014 - 12:51pm PT
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Gonamok - The County Planning Commission is some kind of thin crack testpiece BVB casually mentioned somewhere in one of these threads.
Being a dedicated mantle devotee, I'm not surprised you missed the reference! Where is BVB anyway. I'd still like to find that crack.
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skcreidc
Social climber
SD, CA
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Mar 28, 2014 - 12:55pm PT
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Thanks friend!
Adel, look for a tall thin grey haired dude who looks like he's there to climb. That should narrow it down a little.
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Johannsolo
climber
Soul Cal
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Apr 10, 2014 - 01:21pm PT
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Temps are looking good this weekend.
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gonamok
climber
dont make me come over there
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Jun 17, 2014 - 12:52am PT
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Back on the south slope, but instead of pushing my trail farther west, i decided to head down into the southern basin and look at some of the hulking giants that lurk near the bottom of the south side. I recalled finding a natural break that accessed the basin thru some major league brush about 15 years ago, so i went in search of that passage. Jayzus was that a mistake. I fought through tangles of small trees and 8' tall scrub for a couple hours until i finally came upon a place clear enough to take off my pack and rest. I was probably halfway between the pipeline trail and the drainage bottom amidst huge boulders, but couldnt see or move in any direction. I was blasted and all shredded so i decided to just head back up, but couldnt find the trail i broke, so i had to cut a new trail uphill, overshot the pipeline and came out half dead at the terminator. Didnt get anything accomplished but had a dandy geezer epic.battery powered chain saw, my secret weapon fun stuff the little grotto at my low point portrait of a dumbass about to do something stupid
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gonamok
climber
dont make me come over there
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Jun 17, 2014 - 12:56am PT
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Oh and friend, i know nothing about cracks, nor have i heard of a route by that name. Bob is back in flagstaff, i just heard from him on face book. Ill see what he has to say about that route.
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gonamok
climber
dont make me come over there
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Jun 17, 2014 - 12:59am PT
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Oh my Henny, havent they made a parking lot out of that roobeedoo place yet? Those boulders have valuable gravel potential.
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skcreidc
Social climber
SD, CA
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Jun 17, 2014 - 06:03am PT
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Gonamok, IF you want a little help or geezeR company on one of these outings, PM me. I have much prior experience in chaparral. I'm 57 but still up for this kind of sh!t.
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Gunkie
Trad climber
East Coast US
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Jun 17, 2014 - 10:23am PT
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My oldest daughter will enter UCSD in the fall and I plan to show her around Mt. Woodson. I love that place. Perfect for ADD types like me and a nice hike for her.
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skcreidc
Social climber
SD, CA
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Jun 17, 2014 - 11:24am PT
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Very nice Gunkie! My daughter just finished up her first year there at Muir. Great school...she even got a full time summer job working there as well as part time during the school year. Feel free to pm me and I can connect my daughter up with yours if you want any info for any reason. She's a little nerdy (loves John Green) and a linguistics major (just fyi).
Hawk, you're not going to bring your GOOD woodworking handsaw are ya? At least wait till you kink the blade before you bring the thing. I have a limb lopper blade that cuts fast if needed. We could explore tho.....If we do, I'm wearing my snake gaiters.
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skcreidc
Social climber
SD, CA
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Jun 19, 2014 - 12:09pm PT
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I like after work Woodson Wednesdays.... and Thursdays....
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Truthdweller
Trad climber
San Diego, CA (stuck in Jersey)
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Jun 27, 2014 - 10:44pm PT
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was told trail work in the "Y Crack" area has been done by C. Hubbard et al...pictures?
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bluering
Trad climber
Santa Clara, CA
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Jun 27, 2014 - 11:06pm PT
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I'll try post up some pics I took, curious to see what they are. We were trout-fishing the West Fork down there last weekend.
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REIGN 1
Social climber
Las Vegas, Nv
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Jun 29, 2014 - 05:18pm PT
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That route called county planning commision could be the city planning commission just north of escondido.
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gonamok
climber
dont make me come over there
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Heh Hawk, i know that was tongue in cheek, cuz theres about a zillion rattlers per square mile everywhere in the east county, Mt Woodson included. Ive encountered more rattlers on woodson than i have anywhere else, easily 2 dozen or more since i started going there around 80. But none of them were menacing, they like to get the hell out of dodge if they can. Exception is if you startle one, but Ive avoided that by walking heavily and using a stick to poke around ahead of me when needed. Saw a baby rattler coiled up right in the middle of the road between the practice boulders this spring. In summer its only dusk that you need to be wary, being cold blooded, they dont come out until it cools off.
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gonamok
climber
dont make me come over there
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Oh and id love help cracking brush on the south side, but its a little out of season now, heat wise. Still, i can show you what ive done and the targets i have in mind...there are alot of climbs waiting to be done too, just need a little clearing and a bolt for most. Email me at
ronamick000@gmail.com if you want
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F10
Trad climber
Bishop
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San Diego county, rattlesnakes everywhere.
Ron, like your secret weapon, could have used one of those BITD
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skcreidc
Social climber
SD, CA
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Saw a baby rattler coiled up right in the middle of the road between the practice boulders this spring.
That spot has gooood Feng Shui for some reason. Ron, I'll email you when it looks like it's cooling off. I'm sure Hawk will join in if he can. Right now I melt just walking up there... :P ....although this evening I'm going to do a little bouldering.
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Truthdweller
Trad climber
San Diego, CA (stuck in Jersey)
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Some might remember this photo I posted while out in Santee in 2011!. Albeit not on Mt. Woodson but a MONSTER diamondback nonetheless. I ran into this "stick" silhouette coming down from the OW Boulder by headlamp one night. I'm guessing he was six foot easily...look at the girth on this baby...biggest one I've ever seen in the wild!
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Truthdweller
Trad climber
San Diego, CA (stuck in Jersey)
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Jul 20, 2014 - 11:32am PT
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Whoa! I just happen to be explaining what digitsdelight, another username I use, to someone, and I found this online....I didn't even know this existed. Sorry, but I get excited when others create videos of problems you grew up with and don't see too many people on:
http://vimeo.com/66069512
Edit: This doesn't show the epic I went through when topping this thing out unroped!
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skcreidc
Social climber
SD, CA
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Jul 23, 2014 - 07:34am PT
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It's WOODSON WEDNESDAY!!! I'm stoked! Nice video ^^^^^. Didgits Delight is one of the cracks I'm currently working on. It is a little less than secure at the top, isn't it....Might even go visit it today....
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Juan Maderita
Trad climber
"OBcean" San Diego, CA
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Jul 27, 2014 - 09:44pm PT
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While near Canyon Tajo this weekend, Werner L. happened to be wearing this old shirt. So, I thought to take a photo for the Woodson crew.
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skcreidc
Social climber
SD, CA
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Jul 28, 2014 - 08:43am PT
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Theres about 30 to 40 bats taken up residence in Robbins Crack. Little finger biters....there is a cone of bat poo at the base now. I've been told it's good for the garden.
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dirt claud
Social climber
san diego,ca
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Jul 28, 2014 - 08:51am PT
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I'd be more worried about the rattlers in that crack.;)
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skcreidc
Social climber
SD, CA
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Jul 28, 2014 - 09:17am PT
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^^^^^ Like a big fat RED with a taste for bat.
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matisse
climber
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Jul 28, 2014 - 09:28am PT
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There are bats in Robbins on a regular basis. It's fun to sit on the top at dusk and watch them fly out. I have seen a rattler in the crack facing the road on boulder one (left side of the road just before you go through the gate) opposite practice boulder. That was exciting.
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Truthdweller
Trad climber
San Diego, CA (stuck in Jersey)
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Jul 31, 2014 - 10:51pm PT
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30 or 40? That crack must be filled with 100+ and they've been flying out at dusk ever since I was introduced in 1981. There can be so much guano in the finger crack above that you have to excavate at times to get started. The topout can be so greasy that it adds another letter grade or two!
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Friend
climber
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>> That route called county planning commision could be the city planning commission just north of escondido.
That's gotta be it! Where is that thing?? All I know is BVB said it's worthy... that's enough of a recommendation for me to drive down there and look for it..
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Friend
climber
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Thanks Truthdweller, I'm glad you liked the clip.
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Truthdweller
Trad climber
San Diego, CA (stuck in Jersey)
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Sep 12, 2014 - 11:55am PT
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Gotta throw in a plug for "Friend"...
Check out his videos on Vimeo, 'specially the Woodson ones!
https://vimeo.com/user8776127/videos
P.S. Friend, I left you a message on Vimeo
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skcreidc
Social climber
SD, CA
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Sep 13, 2014 - 10:56am PT
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^^^^ I've seen "friend's" videos. Super inspiring.
Da Hawk leading on this 5.9ish (5.8?) crack last Thurs. Cool crack; really sharp crystals.
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Friend
climber
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Sep 15, 2014 - 10:36am PT
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Wow, thanks for the stoke, guys. I am glad you liked the clips.
Won’t be winning any awards for my cinematography or smooth footwork, but it’s fun to try and capture something of the place... the line, the stone, the beautiful surroundings.
Climbers are lucky to visit such awesome venues.
Keep bumping the Woodson threads, it’s getting to be that time of the year....
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skcreidc
Social climber
SD, CA
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Sep 15, 2014 - 10:53am PT
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Hawk, what did you get that scratch on? You been pissing your wife off again?
THis sunday I had the option of melting at Woodson, or going to Suicide. We took the cool route. Can't wait for the temps to drop and explore Woodson some more.
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CA.Timothy
climber
California
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Oct 29, 2014 - 07:40pm PT
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Friend
climber
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Nov 12, 2014 - 07:30am PT
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Temps have gotta be getting good down there... any pictures and stoke yet, people?
I'm bumping this thread with the ever-popular "Name That Route" post. Should be a snap to ID this boulder, which has this classic kids problem as well as a classic desperate for grown-ups.
HB, cranking:
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Truthdweller
Trad climber
San Diego, CA (stuck in Jersey)
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Nov 27, 2014 - 11:43pm PT
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Friend, that pic didnt come through...???
Magus, et al, man those pics make me homesick...*sigh*
'specially Pickpocket...I haven't touched that rock in forever. That brings back a lot of fond '80's memories with my mentor Roger Barnes, Steve Belford, and Ken Klis.
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Truthdweller
Trad climber
San Diego, CA (stuck in Jersey)
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Nov 27, 2014 - 11:57pm PT
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Girls Climb, 5.10d...what a classic nightmare that you'd find on a pitch when the flake you're casually laybacking up runs out into a buldge, with this nearly unprotectable seam running out to the top...gripping!
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dirt claud
Social climber
san diego,ca
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A couple weeks ago, some fun on Tower 2 and Robbins. Great weather for Woodson right now.
Robyn pulling Robbins crack on her first time trying it, she is a natural crack addict :)
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Truthdweller
Trad climber
San Diego, CA (stuck in Jersey)
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LearningTrad...down on the west side, up from Poway Lakes, I believe.
Friends...that photo is on the boulder with that unnamed V6-7 rail problem next to Shawn's Knobs / Karl's Error
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Truthdweller
Trad climber
San Diego, CA (stuck in Jersey)
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Name this climb:
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Truthdweller
Trad climber
San Diego, CA (stuck in Jersey)
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...and this one:
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JonA
Trad climber
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Is the 1st one Fall Semester nearly at the top?
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Truthdweller
Trad climber
San Diego, CA (stuck in Jersey)
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Nope, you're really cold...its way down low on the mountain!
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Truthdweller
Trad climber
San Diego, CA (stuck in Jersey)
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Not that this means much, but this is the ONLY picture I've seen of someone trying this, and never have I physically seen anyone trying this! I heard it that Mr. Rick Piggot did it's first ascent. Was told by my friend Steve Belford that he unsuccessfully tried it. It's apparently in the 5.11 range, but then again, everything hard at Woodson was 5.11c b.i.t.d, ie; IHMT, and Mother Superior!
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SEANG
Trad climber
Cardiff By The Sea
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Is that first pic the west side of marshmallow tower?
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LearningTrad
Trad climber
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Dec 8, 2014 - 09:16pm PT
LearningTrad...down on the west side, up from Poway Lakes, I believe.
I see, thanks. Don't normally approach from that side, how much of a drop is it past the summit if you take the road? also, how hard is it? Might be wasting my time ;)
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Friend
climber
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The picture of Raker looks like the 5.11 sloper traverse on Marshmallow Tower to me too.
LT - that crack is 5.10 and it's about 5 minutes west of the Ogre. You can hike up either side, but the quantity and quality of the problems on the west side is nothing compared to the main (east) area.
I will post on Mtnproj when I have a few minutes.
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F10
Trad climber
Bishop
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Ditto on Marshmallow Tower
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LearningTrad
Trad climber
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Dec 10, 2014 - 07:46am PT
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Thanks Friend! Appreciate your info and time.
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Jon Clark
climber
philadelphia
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Dec 10, 2014 - 08:14am PT
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Friend,
Please do post up location beta for Yoav. As an East coast resident I'm very fortunate to have the opportunity to climb at Woodson at least a handful of times a year due to San Diego business travel. I've climbed many of the classic cracks and thought I'd found the vast majority of them. I hadn't seen this one before though.
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darkmagus
Mountain climber
San Diego, CA
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Dec 10, 2014 - 10:18am PT
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I read that a guide once existed for the boulders on the Lake Poway side. Anyone know of such a thing?
Chris Hubbard's SD guide says that everything down by Lake Poway "was probably climbed by Rick Piggot in the late 70's"...
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Doug Tomczik
climber
Bishop
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Dec 10, 2014 - 02:59pm PT
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Anyone on supertopo been on that side of marshmallow?? Just jumping to the sloper rail felt like the real deal to me.
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Truthdweller
Trad climber
San Diego, CA (stuck in Jersey)
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Dec 11, 2014 - 01:59pm PT
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Yep, the North side of Marshmallow Tower with the 5.11+ finger crack up the "Marshmallow" sitting at the top of the tower.
Yes, there's a photo guide somewhere for the west side boulders...I'll try to find it.
The second photo is misleading for it isn't on Woodson proper yet, hint: is across the road, and associated with "Woodson" when people talk about it, ie; Laverne and Shirley.
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bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
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Dec 11, 2014 - 04:13pm PT
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The Leavitt glue-ups. What about 'em?
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LearningTrad
Trad climber
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Dec 11, 2014 - 04:38pm PT
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Chest full o' burl
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bajaandy
climber
Escondido, CA
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Dec 11, 2014 - 07:17pm PT
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"The Leavitt glue-ups."
Buwahahaha! That's rich!
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Truthdweller
Trad climber
San Diego, CA (stuck in Jersey)
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Dec 11, 2014 - 08:39pm PT
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Hey Bob, as you know, these photos have been posted/discussed before, and it was a matter of time before the Woodson vets showed up to claim them. I was actually having some fun with some of the newer folk.
As far as deeming them to be the "Leavitt glue-ups," Um, I never knew of Randy ever having any part of them, but I personally was there when Dave "Spray" Robinson, et al (Randy wasn't one of them), had me get on some of their own routes, and I showed up on one occasion to watch Rick Piggot and an other guy wearing green socks I recall, working on a 5.13 over there. My ex may still have the VHS videos I took of them!
Haven't heard from you in a while...how's things?
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crøtch
climber
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Dec 11, 2014 - 08:51pm PT
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LearningTrad and Jon Clark, that crack is right around here
google map
It's one of the best 5.10 splitters on the hill. I'd play tour guide if anyone wants to check it out.
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skcreidc
Social climber
SD, CA
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Dec 12, 2014 - 07:14am PT
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Thank YOU crotch! Been trying to find that one for some time now...
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LearningTrad
Trad climber
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Dec 12, 2014 - 08:42am PT
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Doesn't look that great
;)
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crøtch
climber
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Dec 12, 2014 - 08:50am PT
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You are welcome skcreidc. Did your boy surf Torrey the last few days? Must have been a few bombs out there.
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skcreidc
Social climber
SD, CA
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Dec 12, 2014 - 10:30am PT
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Crotch, yea...at least the vicinity. 4th and 8th street. Certain reefs in La Jolla have been going OFF, but he needs to get a bit more confidence back before he gets on those. I talked him into trying this new bottom, and that hasn't helped hehehe...although he's been game.
As far as the location, I've walked right by the sucker!! Figures...
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crøtch
climber
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Dec 12, 2014 - 12:19pm PT
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I could see the reefs going off on my way to work yesterday. Tell him to keep an eye out for a balding guy with a beard riding a firewire. Oh wait, that's about half the guys at 8th :-)
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Friend
climber
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Dec 12, 2014 - 12:24pm PT
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Thanks for that Birds Eye View link, Crotch. I wasn't familiar with that tool. Awesome!!
@LearningTrad = HEH!
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LearningTrad
Trad climber
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Dec 13, 2014 - 02:50pm PT
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Hey Crotch, randomly talked with a guy today and learned about you (I think) and your old website that had fantastic info on Woodson. That ring a bell? Is it still online someplace?
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skcreidc
Social climber
SD, CA
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Dec 14, 2014 - 12:28pm PT
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Question people. Are there rap bolts on top of the Ogre? Or do I have to leave something like webbing or worse at the top.
Nice day at Woodson, just me and the shorthair pointer. Some bouldering, but mostly just trying to find things. That Ogre looks pretty grunty, but the fist/hand crack on the other side looks appealing and doable by me too.
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JonA
Trad climber
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Dec 14, 2014 - 03:30pm PT
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If you get to the top of the Ogre and find a bunch of climber skeletons then you can be pretty sure that there are no anchors. Maybe you could use the bones as passive pro. Lots of chock-shaped bones in the wrist and ankles.
OK bad joke. Yes there are anchors up there.
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skcreidc
Social climber
SD, CA
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Dec 14, 2014 - 03:50pm PT
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If you get to the top of the Ogre and find a bunch of climber skeletons then you can be pretty sure that there are no anchors. Maybe you could use the bones as passive pro. Lots of chock-shaped bones in the wrist and ankles.
Ok, so your saying I should bring the webbing. ;) Just wanted to make sure.
I appreciate good sarcasm.
edit; I just remembered another way to get down off these large boulders anyway.
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
Nothing creative to say
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Dec 15, 2014 - 11:07pm PT
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Learningtrad, classic response!
and that Bing hi res imagery is really top notch in most cases. Double check road names in map mode though for Forest Service land.
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Truthdweller
Trad climber
San Diego, CA (stuck in Jersey)
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Dec 16, 2014 - 03:41pm PT
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Bear Grylls used an antelor shoved into a crack with the rope draped over it, to get himself and Ben Stiller down in the Isle of Skye, Scotland.
How about these two:
This was my last and successful climb at the '86 contest:
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Truthdweller
Trad climber
San Diego, CA (stuck in Jersey)
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Dec 17, 2014 - 01:29pm PT
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Bump for those last two photos, "Name that climb"?
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Splater
climber
Grey Matter
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Dec 17, 2014 - 01:59pm PT
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hint
if we change the question to "those climbs"
then
include left longs, right longs, seminar wall, lizard corner,
which are all 10a max.
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henny
Social climber
The Past
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Topic Author's Reply - Dec 17, 2014 - 03:14pm PT
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The fact that panning a little more left would bring the Lie Detector into the picture should be enough of a dead giveaway for the second picture.
Rather stylish looking characters there. Oh yeah, the 80's.
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bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
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Dec 17, 2014 - 03:38pm PT
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Henny, showin' the love
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henny
Social climber
The Past
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Topic Author's Reply - Dec 17, 2014 - 04:36pm PT
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Hey, according to that picture I was younger once upon a time. Judging by the attentive belay posture it looks like Home Boy is about to run a solo lap whilst dragging some dead weight rope.
Miss Dan.
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Truthdweller
Trad climber
San Diego, CA (stuck in Jersey)
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Dec 20, 2014 - 11:13am PT
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My last post were The Dragon and 5.10b on the Outside...
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Truthdweller
Trad climber
San Diego, CA (stuck in Jersey)
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Dec 20, 2014 - 11:19am PT
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Is Greg eyeing Driving South or is that California Night?
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Truthdweller
Trad climber
San Diego, CA (stuck in Jersey)
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Dec 20, 2014 - 11:25am PT
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The background is confusing and now I take my last guesses back...???
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REIGN 1
Social climber
Las Vegas, Nv
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Dec 21, 2014 - 09:16pm PT
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That would Powells over rated "10a on the outside"
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henny
Social climber
The Past
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Topic Author's Reply - Dec 22, 2014 - 09:27am PT
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Hey Reign 1, what's up?
Gary, like Reign 1 said, it's that 5.8 problem of Powell's. Way over rated at 10a, but then again, 10a at Woodson is usually... Well, you know the story. Haha, that oughta yank a chain or two.
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skcreidc
Social climber
SD, CA
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Dec 22, 2014 - 02:34pm PT
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My wife and I ended up working our way up to these 2 fun climbs yesterday. Another nice day out at Woodson. Kinda liking this Bing application.
So.....Rexrode area? Here?
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dirt claud
Social climber
san diego,ca
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Dec 22, 2014 - 02:59pm PT
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Is that the RexRoads area Skedric? Been meaning to get down there.
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GDavis
Social climber
SOL CAL
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Dec 22, 2014 - 03:07pm PT
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hey skcreidc, are the two open books in the first photo rockwork orange/milkbar?
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skcreidc
Social climber
SD, CA
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Dec 22, 2014 - 03:31pm PT
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Yes, Gdavis. That's exactly what they are. I'm hoping the second one is of Rexrodes, but I'm not 100% positive.
edit; There is a good chance I might head out to check it out this Sunday for a long day. Then head up and over to YOAV crack. Friend posted it up on Mountain project. Nice job, and Thanks!!
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darkmagus
Mountain climber
San Diego, CA
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Dec 22, 2014 - 04:59pm PT
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skreidc, I keep thinking about that huge cube you pointed out to me at Sickle Crack. Might be worth the bushwack to check it out!!
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Truthdweller
Trad climber
San Diego, CA (stuck in Jersey)
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Dec 22, 2014 - 06:38pm PT
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I wonder if 10a On The Outside has changed for the holds up top were awfully thin and brittle back in '86.
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Truthdweller
Trad climber
San Diego, CA (stuck in Jersey)
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Dec 22, 2014 - 06:53pm PT
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Anyone see Eric (Rhodes) out at Santee lately? Rex/Rhodes is on the northeast side above the golf course no? At least that's where I know of it to be.
Edit: Scratch my last on Rex/Rhodes...brain fart.
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Friend
climber
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Dec 23, 2014 - 08:55am PT
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skcreidc, great to meet you and put a face to the name.
Your screen shot does show the main Rexrodes area. The crag dead center is “Rexrode Inn,” a very obvious dihedral and short straight-in crack. Both are fun.
The main crag faces north and doesn’t look like much from this angle, but it’s there at the top of the image, near the word Poway. Contour along the west side of Rexrode Inn and walk another 50 yards. Several good climbs here, the classics being a tall unnamed hand/finger crack problem, and the Cat Crack, a slabby 40’ tips crack.
I posted this picture in one of the previous Woodson threads..
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skcreidc
Social climber
SD, CA
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Dec 23, 2014 - 12:36pm PT
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^^^^^^NICE!! Looks like I'm going out to Rexrodes Friday, forget Sunday.
Great to meet you too Friend! And thanks again for everything. See you out there again soon. Gotta get me and the wife crack ready for Indian Creek!
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REIGN 1
Social climber
Las Vegas, Nv
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Dec 25, 2014 - 07:58pm PT
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Henny, I'm good. Still living in vegas and working 6+ days a week. I still need to get back on the stone one of these days. I have a lot of old equipment laying around collecting dust lol How have you been? Hope your christmas was good!
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LearningTrad
Trad climber
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Dec 25, 2014 - 09:21pm PT
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Woodson Christmas stroll. so good.
Name this crag!
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GDavis
Social climber
SOL CAL
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Dec 25, 2014 - 10:10pm PT
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Heading to Josh, but if you wanted to do I Would Die For You, this would be the weekend to do it. Super cold.
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LearningTrad
Trad climber
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Dec 26, 2014 - 10:45am PT
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Sending temps^^^^^
Stretched my old man legs on a little exploratory hike on Christmas day - found some gems that probably don't get as much traffic as the main hill. Feel free to chime in on these babies.
I've never been over south of the 67, looks like some nice cracks way up on the hill. Above and left of the #10? Just to the right and below of the #10, looks like 2 or three distinct cracks on that thing.
This thing looks almost, if not, impossible
Rexrodes, yessir
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Truthdweller
Trad climber
San Diego, CA (stuck in Jersey)
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Dec 26, 2014 - 09:31pm PT
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Bvb, et al, can give you a better history on the "Mt. Everest" boulder, below and right of the #10 (when did that get there?!). There's four fractures on that face, left end 5.10c, left center "Sineater" 5.12+, right center 5.10, right end 5.11? OW (not visible). There's some moderate, and bold, hard bolted leads up above that boulder!
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Truthdweller
Trad climber
San Diego, CA (stuck in Jersey)
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Dec 26, 2014 - 10:06pm PT
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The triangular slab just above and right of the Mt Everest boulder has this 5.8, 3-4 bolt problem, with a spicy, two move 5.10 finish up the vertical summit:
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Truthdweller
Trad climber
San Diego, CA (stuck in Jersey)
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Dec 27, 2014 - 10:36pm PT
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Woodson bump...
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ß Î Ø T Ç H
Boulder climber
extraordinaire
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Dec 27, 2014 - 10:45pm PT
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Awesome photos LearningTrad.
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LearningTrad
Trad climber
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Dec 28, 2014 - 06:32am PT
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Thanks. Heading there this morning with a motley crew, might sneak over to the Everest area after Rex if we have time. Chilly!
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Truthdweller
Trad climber
San Diego, CA (stuck in Jersey)
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Dec 28, 2014 - 12:52pm PT
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LT...You familiar with the location of Laverne and Shirley? Spend a day on a trail that now follows the ridge that ascends west to east towards the summit of Mt. Everest (locate an obvious pullout on the south side of 67 soon after it bends around east and runs past the Rex/Rhodes area). I was given a partial tour and I have to say there's some quality routes up there...PHD length problems! Henny, Johanne, these have your names all over them! I would love to hear someone elses feedback.
Pullout is at the bottom left:
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LearningTrad
Trad climber
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Dec 28, 2014 - 02:33pm PT
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Live from Woodson!
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LearningTrad
Trad climber
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Dec 28, 2014 - 09:23pm PT
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LT...You familiar with the location of Laverne and Shirley?
I'm not, but I'm loving the exploration around Woodson. Worked the fingers on Cat Crack today, such a fantastic climb. The other climbs in the area were pretty nice as well.
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ß Î Ø T Ç H
Boulder climber
extraordinaire
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Dec 28, 2014 - 10:09pm PT
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God dang.
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
Nothing creative to say
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Dec 28, 2014 - 11:46pm PT
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Tasty cracks
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LearningTrad
Trad climber
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Dec 29, 2014 - 08:49am PT
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TD, the Everest Boulder was something else. We were too tired from rexrode fun and the bushwhack up to Everest, so we just looked around and made a wish list for next time. Also found the proper trail on the way out. My buddy had his eye on Soylent green or something like that, which I think is the bolted slab climb you're talking about. Right or left side in on that .11 OW?
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Splater
climber
Grey Matter
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Dec 29, 2014 - 11:34am PT
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The start of the trail up to Mt Everest used to get a lot of poison oak, which might be hard to see this time of year, so watch out or use a wash like Technu if you're not sure.
Same thing with some areas around the north side of Woodson.
A good aid practice at Woodson is Sineater, set up belay just below the top, then pendulum over to the 5.8 crack.
Does anyone have the old aid route guide to Woodson from 20 years ago?
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Johannsolo
climber
Soul Cal
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Dec 29, 2014 - 01:02pm PT
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Someone added lead bolts to an already established TR next to the road at the Poison Oak area. They did not even paint the hangers or chains. The bolts will be chopped and the holes patched.
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skcreidc
Social climber
SD, CA
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Dec 30, 2014 - 09:10am PT
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Nice work LT! Way to dg out those gems.
I need to try that Technu; comes highly recommended but I'll have to find out how it works myself. Poison oak sensitive I am.
Jay leading Rexrodes Inn the other day. Best I could do with the camera phone.
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henny
Social climber
The Past
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Topic Author's Reply - Dec 30, 2014 - 02:52pm PT
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Which TR were the bolts added to, anything of note?
Hope it isn't one of the classics in the Big Grunt area.
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Truthdweller
Trad climber
San Diego, CA (stuck in Jersey)
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Dec 30, 2014 - 10:15pm PT
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Bump...
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