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Euroford
Trad climber
Chicago, IL
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Aug 11, 2006 - 01:35pm PT
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IMO, if your going to head into serious thin nut territory your rack should contain a mix of RP's, HB Offsets and the Steel BD micro's. they each kind of cover a certain special bit of territory. Much love for all three.
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Rhodo-Router
Gym climber
Otto, NC
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Aug 11, 2006 - 03:24pm PT
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werd
they sure won't weigh you down much
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Rankin
Social climber
Greensboro, North Carolina
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May 22, 2014 - 11:37am PT
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A thread back from the dead.
RP's are strong for their size. Now the I.M.P.s by DMM are almost identical, although RP's rate their version of the no. 1 more conservatively at 3kN. A no. 1 IMP is rated for 4kN, which is strong enough to take a lead fall in most situations. I wouldn't take repeated falls on one without switching ends of the rope. Regardless, a no. 2 is plenty strong enough at 5 kN and is standard micro protection.
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Trouble
Mountain climber
Fresno, CA
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I was always understood it to stand for "Regal Princess".
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Good Lord!
That thing looks f*#king hard !!!
Dude takes quite the plunge.
Going to have to source the whole video now ...
(Seb Grieve on Parthian Shot)
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skywalker1
Trad climber
co
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Thanks for the history Ed. I carry them all the time as a psychological thing. I've rested on them. Fun stuff at certain areas for sure. Helps through those question marks in your flight plan.
S...
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thebravecowboy
climber
The Good Places
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that malleability liable to shear out them little brass offsets can ease the mind in soft rock placements where steel might just track straight on through, reaming a little trackline set into the sand
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Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
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[Click to View YouTube Video]
RPs are great, but it's not good when the flake they are in breaks off,
and it was the only pro between you and a bad ground fall
(same climb, Parthian Shot, as in the above video).
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steveA
Trad climber
Wolfeboro, NH
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I found a complete set of R.P's in the trunk of a rental car once. I've always liked using them.
I might add that I tested the strength of standard silver solder and it averaged around 35,000 pounds/square inch. You might ask how pertinent this fact is?
Well, as an example if 1/8" wire were used in a brass nut, and the joint was 1/2 inch long, this would give a total surface area of silver solder around the wire of .187 square inches. Silver solder joints generally have a minimum tensile strength of 35-40K PSI. The wire would pull out of the brass nut at approximately 6545 pounds of force. Since there are 2 joints, it would take over 12,000 pounds of force, or pull to shear the joint. The wire would probably break before the joint would shear.
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Excellent interview with Will Stanhope!
Stanhope stories:
http://www.willstanhope.com/stories-1/
................................................
I placed lots of RPs and was never particularly concerned.
Though, in my time the whole point was NOT to lob off onto gear.
 Full set of RPs in the trunk of a rental car: what are the odds that a climber would come across that? (A far less definitive sort of calculation)
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clifff
Mountain climber
golden, rollin hills of California
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Will Stanhope Goes Solo On The Crack Climbs Of Joshua Tree
[Click to View YouTube Video]
RP's are great if you're only facing a short fall. I've been thinking that bungee cord could somehow be worked into the equation for weak placements. A bungee sling to the placement. Or tie in as normal and then tie in a section of bungee parallel to your lead rope, so that the bungee takes the fall for the first 2 - 20+ feet then the normal lead rope engages. This would greatly reduce the forces on the weak pro. Might be really good for hard aid. Maybe just use a bungee as your rope if the route is steep enough and the pro weak.
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Blue Mountains Orangutan
Sport climber
Sydney, Australia
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May 26, 2018 - 07:39am PT
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Just to answer the original post surely RP stands for Roland Pauligk?
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i-b-goB
Social climber
Wise Acres
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May 26, 2018 - 08:19am PT
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Cracks are sporty! Roy, Will likes climbing in a hat too!
On point RP's would fit where other nuts wouldn't!
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Gnome Ofthe Diabase
climber
Out Of Bed
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May 26, 2018 - 08:42am PT
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whtz an RP?
Better Than Nothing
In this case Alone that malleability liable to shear out them little brass offsets can ease the mind in soft rock placements where steel might just track straight on through, reaming a little trackline set into the sand RP stands for Righteous Prose.
Garble-base, good on ya!
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Chief
climber
The NW edge of The Hudson Bay
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May 26, 2018 - 06:13pm PT
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RP's?
Roland Pauligk, RIP!
The late great Eric Weinstein told Scott Flavelle and I he thought they made some of the pitches on Mescalito a full grade easier when he did the 4th ascent (with Java).
Java loaned Scott and I two sets for our ascent after Mark and Max and we thought them indispensable.
I've used them ever since for aid and free, fallen on size 3 (green) and 4 (blue) plenty of times and still carry a set on my rack.
They were vital on Josh stemming classics such as Cretan Bull Dancer, 29 Palms, Warrior Eagle etc.
I used four sets on the first pitch of Movin' to Montana and they're essential for the compact stone in the Chehalis.
Just sayin'
PB
ps. Will is the definitive mild mannered superhero with all the muscular definition of a teenaged Canadian mill rat nourished by a strict diet of High Test and poutine.
What a stud!
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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May 26, 2018 - 07:39pm PT
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Cretan Bull Dancer on RPs!
Exactly: had to have them on board and in the stone.
Thanks for bringing back the memories, Perry.
PS: tell us more about Java.
Please.
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Chief
climber
The NW edge of The Hudson Bay
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May 26, 2018 - 09:54pm PT
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Roy,
Java aka Java Man was Greg Child's nickname and he was the down to earth, approachable opposite to his Aussie partner in the mid to late seventies.
I had the privilege of partnering up with Greg on his frequent visits to Squamish during the years he was married to Sally and living in Seattle and we enjoyed a rewarding friendship on and off the rock.
A highlight for both of us was the first ascent of Mt. Slesse's East aspect via it's "East Pillar".
(The late John Stoddard and his partner took the same start but "escaped" left up easier terrain.)
Greg is a great writer and he chronicled our memorable night on a sloping excuse for a ledge that felt more like the hood of a Volkswagen in his treatise, "The Diadactics of Bivouacism".
I haven't seen Greg in nigh twenty years.
He and Sally went their separate ways and I think Greg lives in Castleton Valley and has raised a daughter from a subsequent relationship.
He's a great guy and a living legend in my books.
An honor to have shared a rope with him and call him my friend.
PB
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