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BrassNuts
Trad climber
Save your a_s, reach for the brass...
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Dec 21, 2013 - 02:07pm PT
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Yes, "Trespassers" will keep your attention. Harlequin on Saddle Rocks also requires focus and is a couple of pitches to boot. EBGB's and Grain Surgery too. Slab-O-rama!
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Rudder
Trad climber
Costa Mesa, CA
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Dec 21, 2013 - 03:47pm PT
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Many good ones already listed, I also like Cheap Way to Die on Saddle Rock.
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Curt
climber
Gold Canyon, AZ
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Dec 21, 2013 - 10:26pm PT
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All of the routes on the Bond Boulders at Loveland. And, they're on perfect varnished (non-grainy) rock to boot.
Curt
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Dimes
Social climber
Retired and thinking about a comeback?
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Dec 22, 2013 - 10:03pm PT
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Lost In The Wonderland is an obscure gem in a beautiful setting. A little run out and probably still has the original bolts but a really good 2 pitch route.
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Chaz
Trad climber
greater Boss Angeles area
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Dec 22, 2013 - 10:33pm PT
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Second pitch of Mental Physics is cool slab in a neat setting.
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tuolumne_tradster
Trad climber
Leading Edge of North American Plate
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Dec 24, 2013 - 12:03am PT
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stitcher quits
chalk up another one
mental physics
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froodish
Social climber
Portland, Oregon
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Dec 28, 2013 - 01:27am PT
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One of my favorite spots when it's cold, the South face of the North Astrodome has a handful of fun slab routes including Lead Us Not Into Temptation:
Sunny and usually sheltered from the wind over there (oh, and when did the routes on the North faces of the 'domes become "slabs"?)
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ß Î Ø T Ç H
Boulder climber
ne'er–do–well
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Jan 22, 2017 - 09:03pm PT
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bump
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guyman
Social climber
Moorpark, CA.
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Jan 23, 2017 - 11:25am PT
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Bump with Photo...
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Bad Climber
Trad climber
The Lawless Border Regions
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Jan 23, 2017 - 12:39pm PT
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Neat pic. Pretty dang steep for a slab in my book, but for sport climbers, anything under 95 degrees is a "slab"!
BAd
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StahlBro
Trad climber
San Diego, CA
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Jan 23, 2017 - 02:29pm PT
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pud
climber
Sportbikeville & Yucca brevifolia
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Jan 23, 2017 - 02:30pm PT
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guyman
Social climber
Moorpark, CA.
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Jan 23, 2017 - 03:34pm PT
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Locker ...that's for sure. Kris has tried to teach me a few things about the secrets of the Slab.... one is to use your core and your whole body like a claw. I think that's why his butt is sticking out.
I tried that climb... over and over and over then some more... got shut down, Hard!!!
and you need to do 12 on gear up above that.
One of the hardest climbs in Josh I reckon.
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Ksolem
Trad climber
Monrovia, California
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Jan 23, 2017 - 05:13pm PT
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Truth be told, the attempt in guys pic ended in failure. Marc Soltan took this one when I did the deed. You can kind of see that "using your body like a big four fingered hand" going on there. I got that concept from the best face climber I've had the pleasure to tie in with, Ron Carson.
Back to the topic, someone upthread mentioned "I can't believe it's a Girdle". Best be the man in the middle, and getting belayed from both ends on that one. Following the P2 traverse is terrifying, and for good reason.
One day I was walking up to do Puss n Boots. There was a guy down on the desert floor sitting in a lawn chair. I knew him as one of the better climbers around that season. But now he sat there watching the climbing. He was bandaged up like a wounded Civil War soldier, and a cast or two to boot. I asked him what happened. You guessed it, he fell following P2 of that rig.
Your right above the lip of the overhang, after you unclip the bolt which protects the leader so nicely for the crux move, you have to make said move with no more pro. Come off? A huge swing accelerating wildly, due to centrifugal force, through the air below the roof ending with a high speed crash into the corner.
It's a fall that would make a Gritstone climber proud.
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StahlBro
Trad climber
San Diego, CA
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Jan 23, 2017 - 05:36pm PT
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