rappel with butterfly knot??????


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'Pass the Pitons' Pete

Big Wall climber
like Ontario, Canada, eh?
Dec 10, 2013 - 05:44pm PT
I'm with Malemute - great knot!

The Butterfly would work, but man oh man, is it ever hard to tie into two pieces of rope as you have shown! It would be easy to blow it, I would think.

And j-tree poached my Tech Tip! ;)

Ice climber
great white north
Sep 12, 2018 - 04:12pm PT

where barrel knot = double overhand bend DOB

Trad climber
Polebridge, Montana
Sep 12, 2018 - 05:15pm PT
Dam by the time I got done reading that article I couldn't tell which knot he is NOW endorsing. He made a mistake earlier in writing, that is clear and he owns up to it and attempts to now clarify the situation. But he includes the original "mistake" post he wrote and by the time you finish reading you might be just as confused as I.

Here we go again, round and round, how do we choose a rappel knot? Maybe 140 meter ropes are the answer.
Larry Nelson

Social climber
Sep 12, 2018 - 06:37pm PT
the way I see it
if your rappelling you've done something wrong...

Haha, like most I hardly ever rappel if there's an alternative.
I like to keep it simple, have generally used a fisherman's and haven't been bitten by a snag, but good points by Malemute on the DOB
Blue Mountains Orangutan

Sport climber
Sydney, Australia
Sep 12, 2018 - 07:45pm PT
I've still got no idea what the problem is with the EDK. Yes it looks like it will kill you but we know it doesn't, it's simple to tie, doesn't get caught up, easy to untie. I can't see any reason to use anything else for similar sized ropes. Just dress it well. I also find it weird that climbers tie a backup EDK, it just makes it more likely to get snagged and if you dress the first one well it's pointless.

Trad climber
Poughkeepsie, NY
Sep 12, 2018 - 09:41pm PT
I've switched over to an even more compact solution then the one I posted earlier. If this was tied with ropes of different diameters, it should be arranged so that the thinner rope is the blue rope, for the same reason explained in my earlier post.

The tails are pictured shorter than they should be for compactness of the illustrations. Testing was done with 100mm tails, 200--300mm recommended for field use.

Tucked EDK from p. 38 http://www.paci.com.au/downloads_public/knots/01...
Tucked EDK from p. 38 http://www.paci.com.au/downloads_public/knots/01_Knots.pdf
Credit: rgold
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