North Face of the Eiger: Who's done it?


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Big Wall climber
Mar 22, 2014 - 07:18pm PT
I free soloed it in 1962 with one axe, which was fashioned from the rear leaf spring of a Renault and the handle of an Austrian framing hammer. I have not done it since then, but would like to try it again barefoot. The Hinterstoisser is entirely too easy wearing crampons.


Sport climber
Apr 4, 2014 - 03:19pm PT

Eiger Solo - Eric Jones
[Click to View YouTube Video]
Shortly after having successfully soloed the Eiger North Face, Leo Dickinson insisted on showing Eric the North Face from a helicopter. "Did I really come up that?" Eric asked in disbelief, adding, "If I'd seen it all from here, I don't think I'd have bothered!" "Perhaps you can now appreciate what it was like for me, watching you all the way up. So how does it feel?" asked Leo. Eric replied,"I had a few frights, but that was all to be expected." "And inwardly?"' "Contentment, satisfaction and relief." "And what now?" Leo asked. "I'd like a cup of tea."


Apr 4, 2014 - 04:24pm PT
Thanks Marlow
mark miller

Social climber
Apr 4, 2014 - 04:42pm PT
Here are my best attempts on the Eiger....

Trad climber
Apr 4, 2014 - 05:53pm PT

Thanks for posting that video.

Sport climber
May 16, 2014 - 02:43pm PT

Filming the Eigerwand by Leo Dickinson. Published in Mountain 13, 1971.

Trad climber
Sierra Vista
Aug 12, 2014 - 01:22pm PT
A link to a bit of surrogate travel on the 1938 Route...

Well worth a look for those interested.


Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
Aug 12, 2014 - 04:39pm PT
That was pretty cool! I found the best perspective was often looking back
down. Those guys had pretty casual conditions! But I wouldn't have wanted
that camera on a pole on my back!

Thanks, Steve!

Trad climber
Aug 12, 2014 - 05:19pm PT
I know Rick Sylvester did it with John Bouchard BITD.

I always wondered exactly how hard it is. Nobody has ever given me the pitch by pitch beta.

Bouchard did an early ascent in a day.

Saw a slide show of it. Afterwards we took him to a pub in DC and he wrote out a topo on a napkin I still have somewhere.

His assessment... 5.7 . But you have to be willing to do that with crampons on.
John Duffield

Mountain climber
New York
Aug 12, 2014 - 05:55pm PT
We went skiing there, for the holidays, Christmas 1972.

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