North Face of the Eiger: Who's done it?

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Messages 41 - 60 of total 90 in this topic << First  |  < Previous  |  Show All  |  Next >  |  Last >>
Reilly

Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
Dec 9, 2013 - 06:53pm PT
The Eiger would have been in a totally different league.

Ha! With all due respect the Eiger would have been a punter's warmup for North Twin.
micronut

Trad climber
Fresno/Clovis, ca
Dec 9, 2013 - 06:54pm PT
Amazing stories gentlemen. Proud work on that Ascent Steve. Great story Chris. Have any of you seen the foreign film North Face. Quite well done. Amazing cinematography and a good story from an iconic period. Its the Kurtz story and its well put together.

GhoulweJ

Trad climber
El Dorado Hills, CA
Dec 9, 2013 - 06:56pm PT
I'm gonna.
micronut

Trad climber
Fresno/Clovis, ca
Dec 9, 2013 - 07:07pm PT
[Click to View YouTube Video]

Wow....the full length film is actually on you tube if you look it up. Yall gotta see this thing. The wall footage is full on sweaty palm and the acting is very stylish.
squishy

Mountain climber
Dec 9, 2013 - 07:25pm PT
I was there in 2011, attempted the monch and wetter, failed, but it was such a beautiful place..

klk

Trad climber
cali
Dec 9, 2013 - 08:12pm PT
I am still in awe of the challenge it presented to anyone armed only with hemp, wool, tricouni nails and without helmets

and that's why it didn't get done until heckmair led it in 12 pts.
Mark Rodell

Trad climber
Bangkok
Dec 9, 2013 - 08:35pm PT
Lou Renner. He had some great tales about climbing in the Alps. He is a great partner and guide.
Kalimon

Social climber
Ridgway, CO
Dec 9, 2013 - 09:04pm PT
Charlie Fowler soloed the face.
Chief

climber
The NW edge of The Hudson Bay
Dec 10, 2013 - 01:02am PT
Peter Arbic.
I think PA did the 2nd ascent of the North Face go Alberta with Tim Auger as well.
AP

Trad climber
Calgary
Dec 10, 2013 - 10:33am PT
Lewis and Swenson did the 2rd ascent of N Face Alberta. Barry Blanchard and Greg Cronn did the 3rd. Ward Robinson and Dan Guthrie did maybe the 4th.
PA climbed it with Tim Auger who was in his late 40's at the time I think.
BASE104

Social climber
An Oil Field
Topic Author's Reply - Dec 10, 2013 - 10:35am PT
Ueli Steck soloed it in what? 2 1/2 hours?

Amazing.

Brian in SLC

Social climber
Salt Lake City, UT
Dec 10, 2013 - 10:43am PT
Even more amazing...he doesn't hold the record...
McHale's Navy

Trad climber
From Panorama City, CA
Dec 10, 2013 - 11:23am PT
Bill Pilling. Can't remember who he did it with.
Chief

climber
The NW edge of The Hudson Bay
Dec 10, 2013 - 11:23am PT
OK, I was wrong about PA's ascent of Alberta, apologies.
I'm pretty sure he climbed the Eiger though.
Marlow

Sport climber
OSLO
Dec 10, 2013 - 02:44pm PT

20. april 2011: Daniel Arnold (Switzerland) solos the North face in 2 hours 28 minutes, using the fixed ropes on the Hinterstoisser Traverse. Arnold was 19 minutes faster than Ueli Steck in 2008, but Steck climbed the route entirely without aid and, unlike Arnold, completed the route in the official winter season.

[Click to View YouTube Video]
BASE104

Social climber
An Oil Field
Topic Author's Reply - Dec 10, 2013 - 08:06pm PT
The word I hear, and I might have mentioned it before, is that it isn't typically climbed in the summer anymore. The icefields are now tiny and the rockfall is too bad. Late spring or even in winter is the time.

So it requires a fair amount of modern mixed climbing skill.

I tell ya, being young with a pack bristling with ice tools is a babe magnet, especially when you tell them you are on your way to solo the Eiger.

It also helps hitching rides.
Allen Hill

Social climber
CO.
Dec 10, 2013 - 09:33pm PT
Dave Davis

Social climber
Seattle, WA
Dec 11, 2013 - 12:38am PT
Steve Swenson and Todd Bibler did it sometime back in the eighties.
jopay

climber
so.il
Dec 11, 2013 - 07:19am PT
Great thread, thanks Steve for the info about Eric Jones, he seemed like someone you would instantly want to share a rope with. So with all this experience commenting on the Eiger, I've always wanted to know what in North America would be similar, or what alpine routes would be a good primer.
survival

Big Wall climber
Terrapin Station
Dec 11, 2013 - 09:21am PT
One of my Survival Instructor school buddies pulled it off with no trouble at all!
I guess he was there with the right partner on the right day.
Messages 41 - 60 of total 90 in this topic << First  |  < Previous  |  Show All  |  Next >  |  Last >>
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